WD pto & broken box
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128749
Printed Date: 15 Oct 2025 at 7:23am
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Topic: WD pto & broken box
Posted By: freezman
Subject: WD pto & broken box
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 10:59am
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I,am trying to find anyone who has had problems with a wd pto . The gear has broke once now the second failure has broken the box case on the bottom of the drive gears thanks Dick |
Replies:
Posted By: nevans
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 11:06am
| we sold several box's and shafts but normally because they have hit a stump might just be wear and tear unless your missing the washer had a man take his a part and lost the washer that goes on the shaft with the intermediate gear if that's not there might be binding Niel |
Posted By: freezman
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 11:09am
| the box seems to get loose by itself, thought the may be shims or other spacing problems . We have owned this tractor for 30 plus years |
Posted By: nevans
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 4:21pm
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only shims are on the shaft coming out of the box that connects to the pto shaft some paper or some steel and the thrust washers Niel |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 7:01am
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There HAS to be some backlash in the gears and that is controlled by the thickness of the gasket on the bottom piece. If the bottom gear broke, have you inspected the idler gear for damage? ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 7:59am
| How are the treads if the box gets loose? I was wondering about chasing them and using lock tight. Sometimes the old threads can get bad. |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:36am
| I have broke the stub shaft on the pto box sucker up a 6x6 in the snow blower.it stopped the tractor completely the slip clutch in the pto shaft was rusted solid. My brother broke the gear box and intermediate gear hitting a giant rock with a bowworred brush cutter that the shear pin yoke had been welded to the shaft. The drop box should have studs in the transmition and lock washers on the nuts. If the box is coming loose you need to look closely at the attachment low grade hardware will stretch and caus problems. The gear lash is adjusted by the thickness of the drop box gasket. The three that I've taken off have had a .002 paper gasket on them. |
Posted By: freezman
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 10:40am
| This has happened twice in 2 years hitting nothing. The metal shim is the original shim and was reinstalled both times ( one the gear broke once the box broke) during the two failures. I know they are tapered bearings. There is also one paper gasket. Are there supposed to be more? This would add to the clearance, does anyone have an assembly drawing of the PTO gear box to confirm number of gaskets or how do you determine sufficient backlash? The drop box had previously over 30 years never been loose. my son said recently it was loose. It was re tightened. How could this be with nuts and lock washers (threads fine)? We had no oil loss. The studs in the transmission( with lock washers) two are broke because of this new rupture. The hardware in in the box was original so the quality should have been there. The gear or back lash .. how much is acceptable and how do you measure this? I know I could use more paper gaskets and rather have more clearance than not enough but I'm not sure that's the problem with the fracture of the drop box. Besides hitting something, and besides clearance what else could cause this? |
Posted By: freezman
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 10:42am
| I really appreciate each of your responses I am new to forums so I apologize ahead if I don't quite know all the buttons and whistles! |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 12:41pm
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Things I would do or check. Make sure you are using a working slip clutch. Make sure the shear bolt is a shear bolt. Replace the bearings in the drop box. Inspect all the gears and make sure there is some backlash. Make sure to check or replace the bearing at the end of the PTO shaft. Check the trueness of the PTO shaft. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 12:45pm
| When you have it off did you look at the intermediate gear. A floating piece from the previous broken gear between the gears could possibly break the housing.idont have any idea why it would loosten up during use. The same shim with paper gasket sounds correct. Sorry I can't think of anything else. My one that I broke the hole in the stub shaft was loose before it broke and would chatter when the blower was unloaded. |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 4:29pm
| Helped dad put pto box on W c and I remember it said if gears whine add gasket ,if it roars remove gasket .It whined so we added a gasket .Pulled allcrop about ten years and never had a problem. |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 9:01pm
| just shelled out an intermediate gear on one of my 45 diesels last week.i have 2 spare gears at the ranch.will start splitting the tractor when it cools off.the way I set the pto drive box clearanceis.i like about .005-.007 at the pto stob shaft.that is rotational movement.i mhave set up several this way and no problems.you have ample tooth clearsance for gear lubrication with out any gear whine.you just keep adding or removing shim stock till you get it.i also throw away the original nuts on the pto box and use a good aircraft self locking nuts..... |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 7:53pm
From what I have read on this site, you don't have to split the tractor to replace the intermediate gear. You take the hydraulic pump out and slide the idler shaft forward to get the gear out, if I remember right. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
j.w.freck wrote:Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2016 at 8:46pm
| mr tucker,you are right,you do not need to really split the tractor.but from what I have witnessed and experienced,the last tractors I replaced the intermediate gear,the intermediate gear was not meshing with the rest of the gear teeth to my satisfaction.the intermediate gear was only maybe 85 percent in mesh with the companion gears.you have the thrust washers you can control this with.i do not feel that you can get the thrust washers in place properly to get this accomplished by going through the hyd.pump cavity.maybe I have been around the big airplanes too long but I don't take short cuts..... |
Posted By: polarbear
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 5:54pm
| have had a wd and wc onbush hogs and have never broke those gears was always sure we had the proper shear bolt in pto |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 7:12pm
| had the proper shear pin in there also..... |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 7:22am
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Charlie's right, you don't HAVE to split it to replace, but after having mine split and apart, it would be very difficult to and line up for reinstall while in the tractor. When reading through old posts on here I think one of the experienced guys like (MACK??) admitted they had about a 50% success rate changing without splitting. It all depended if the shaft slides forward easily or not. Here's some pictures after I split mine last year. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=120328&title=how-to-or-not-to-split-wd45-replace-seals" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=120328&title=how-to-or-not-to-split-wd45-replace-seals |