7060 Pd
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128603
Printed Date: 24 Nov 2024 at 8:36am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 Pd
Posted By: AC200Puller
Subject: 7060 Pd
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2016 at 8:50pm
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Been working on a 7060 power director and the guy keeps warping the plates ,I told him before he started this project he was using the wrong tractor. He has a 450 pump on it with a good turbo guessing 4 to 500 h.p. Any ideas where to go from here? I have already eliminated the torque limiter so I know that is not slipping.
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 6:15am
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More details?? warping low range discs/plates?? what clutch pressures?? if he's trying to use it like a CrowerGlide clutch, it will NOT take that much slipping.
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 6:36am
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Exactly what you said, wrong tractor for that power, that's why the Mckinnons quit pulling the 7050 I think, warpped clutch plates all the time, I bought a 180 from a guy who said the PD plates hold better dry,,,,, just what he said, I dunno, wonder if the Kelvar material plates hold any better?
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Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 7:34am
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Or if you could remove the PD all together if he's dead set on a 7060 chassis model
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Posted By: AC200Puller
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:41am
Yes warping the plates in the high and low side both, I set the pressure up to 275 the last time I rebuilt the the pd . He is not slipping it much at all to get moving but just seems to be a weak link. I told him what he needs to do is get some info on putting in a double disc and removing the pd all together. Any help would be great!
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:45am
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What gear is he trying to run?? Comparing to McKinnons 7050 isn't fair. That was a twin-turbo Super-Stock from back in the day of maybe 1,000 HP and running road gear with 30.5 x 32 rubber. This 7060 isn't that strong.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 8:49am
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A 7060 PD clutch is 4 discs in low range and only 2 discs in high range. The clutch from a later 7580 was 5 and 3 disc count. I know of a 7045 near me that has 8 seasons on his tractor running this 7580 clutch and he has a "P" pump on his and is surely making as much or more HP than your 7060 does with a Roosa. Eight seasons at 11,000 pounds with 20.8 x 38 radials.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Sep 2016 at 9:03am
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My guy makes his upshift quickly (if he needs to upshift)and gets out of the throttle a bit when doing so. He also NEVER EVER downshifts once he's rolling down the track. I'm wondering if he has removed the floating brass orifices from the shifting valve? I think he has.
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Posted By: AC 7060
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:21am
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I found a company from Clevland Ohio that makes Kevlar clutch discs for 7000 series Allis Chalmers tractors they are about 50 bucks apiece has anyone tried them Tribco Inc. is their name
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Posted By: mbachmojave
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:57am
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I have also started pulling a 7060 power director just this summer, at this point I am maybe 100 hp over stock, but I plan on doing a little more work this winter. The tractor seems to do well pulling for what it is, does anyone have some words of wisdom for the future, how far should I go with it? Where is the best place to stick money and parts? What will be the weakest link next? Thanks, Mike
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 8:44am
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Don't know what Kevlar would do or if it works well in oil. This much I know:.... the clutch can be made to hold the HP/torque. The McKinnon 7050 with twin-turbos was an example of that. More discs/plates are a good thing. The 7080/7580 has THICKER plates in low range to help prevent warping from heat in a farm application. The clutch was designed to upshift/downshift in a certain time-frame, to provide smooth shifting in field use at field HP settings, by the use of shift orifices. When HP is increased, the upshift completion times must be shortened up to prevent slippage. The discs and plates are kind of like solder or wax----at a certain point of heating, they melt/warp. So, less slippage on the starting line with the thick separator plates(and 5 discs) is the way to go. Upshifting as quickly as possible (when the sled is still light) and probably with shift orifices removed is also the way to go. Downshifting isn't really a good idea. Torque limiter has to be bolted solid or eliminated.
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