Time to rebuild the pump?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=126295
Printed Date: 08 Jul 2025 at 3:14pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Time to rebuild the pump?
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Subject: Time to rebuild the pump?
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 9:16pm
Hello all. My 1982 6060 with 5003 hours is running a little rough. From idle speed to about 1500 rpm with no load it kind of skips and misses. It is worst when it is first started but still does it some even when warm. It runs fine at high RPM and under load. It is not a constant miss on one cylinder but more erratic like it is from different cylinders. The pump has never been gone through to my knowledge. Fuel filter has been changed, fuel is clean and fresh, tractor always stored inside. It started slightly doing this about 2 years ago and is slowly getting worse. I never removed an injector pump before so am a little nervous to do so. Is this where I should be looking for the problem or is it something else? Thanks.
-------------
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
|
Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2016 at 10:15pm
Sounds just like my 220 did.It had a broken spring behind the delivery valve.Roosa pump.
Take the timing window off the pump and turn the engine by hand until the two marks are in line.One is fixed and the other turns with pump.Pump can be removed and replaced and be really close to "in time" as long as the engine is not turned and the marks are alingned when reinstalled.I am not familiar with the drive setup on that engine so not sure of removal procedure.My 220 slid back off drive shaft and shaft/gear stayed in engine.
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 12:28pm
It does sound like you are in need of an injection pump servicing. The 6060/6070/6080 pumps come off like Steve says, shaft can stay in the engine.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 1:40pm
|
For some reason, those pumps are much more expensive new than others.
Send it to Ed!
-------------
Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
|
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2016 at 10:29pm
So if the marks line up she's good to remove? What about intake or compression stroke? Is 5000 hours about when they need servicing? What is the best way to turn engine over to line the marks, doesn't seem to want to turn with the fan. Sorry for the ignorance but diesels are greek to me, always had gassers until this one.
-------------
'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
|
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 9:58am
The pump on that runs half of engine speed, so every time the lines in the pump line up, you will be on the #1 compression stroke. The crank turns 2 turns to one pump revolution. Turning them over can be challenging. I sometimes have success turning by the fan backwards, while pushing the belt tight. Always time one upon final assembly, by coming up on marks in normal direction of rotation though, to ensure the timing is right.
-------------
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2016 at 10:39am
|
I pushed the belts and pulled the fan to turn mine....Little by little
|
|