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3 PT Hitch/Hydraulic Problem - AC 7000

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=122572
Printed Date: 20 Aug 2025 at 6:50am
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Topic: 3 PT Hitch/Hydraulic Problem - AC 7000
Posted By: Play Farmer
Subject: 3 PT Hitch/Hydraulic Problem - AC 7000
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 7:45pm
So I was thinking my 7000 (maroon belly) was pretty much done. (I've been doing a once over and repaint) The rear lift cylinders weeped a little, it was time to get the plows in the ground, I'll take care of those later. Nope. I need help. 

I made 2 passes down the field today when the plows lifted by themselves and oil was spraying like it blew a hydraulic line. I tried lower the plows again and they wouldn't go down. Strange. 

I hopped off the tractor and found the oil to be coming from one of the lift cylinders. Crap. 

I jumped back on the tractor and got them to go down. They lifted again, this time they just wouldn't go down. 

I drove it back to the garage, shut the tractor off, and they went down. If you started the tractor back up they'd lift again. 

I checked the linkage from the controls to the valves and they are connected. 

I'm stumped and am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. 

I had to call on my Massey to do the rest of todays plowing, I'd REALLY like to do the rest with my Allis. 

Thanks. 



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 7:52pm
Sounds like 2 different problems to me. 1, you have a cylinder that needs rebuilt. 2. you have a bypass not working or the valve to the cylinders is not shifting properly. I don't know squat about the 7000 series hydraulics but sompin ain't right to blow out a cylinder. 

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:10pm
I knew the cylinders need rebuilding - they need it a lot more now. What was a weep is now a flood. 

What is causing the pressure when it shouldn't be there is what I'm looking for. 

I sure does look good though. LOL





A bit bigger than the Massey;




Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:26pm
PF,
I am NOT your hydraulics guy. I can change a hose and maybe rebuild a old WD pump! But I can say the tractors look very good! I have never driven a 7000, it looks beefy and comfortable. How much ground are you plowing? Is the Massey a 180?
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:39pm
We have about 6-8 acres that we're plowing this year. The Massey is an 1100 gasser. It seems to be an overachiever for what it is. It was pulling the 4 bottoms today around 4 MPH, 8-10" deep, with ease. The 2 trips the Allis made it pulled them easier. LOL 

The 7000 got a little beefier when we swapped the front axle out of the 7040. The 7000 needed front tires, the 7040 had good fronts but the rims didn't fit, so why not. 

The plows above are new to me this season too. Our ground is fairly rocky, and after using those today I can say "on the 8th day God made self-resetting plows". 


Posted By: Tony Elo
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:40pm
how did you have the traction booster and the position levers set?



Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:44pm
The traction booster isn't too free, so it's about mid-way. I tried the position control from one end to the other. 

The first 2 passes I made it worked great, thats why i'm shaking my head. 


Posted By: Tony Elo
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:49pm
the way they should work,the depth should be all the way down to the deepest,and set the plow depth with the traction booster,if I remember right they are cable operated,probably the traction booster cable is seized,but it sounds like you will be rebuilding your cylinders as well


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 8:56pm
The cylinders weren't desperate for a rebuild until the other issue reared it's head. 

What is causing the cylinders to lift on their own, and not go down unless the tractor is shut off. 

The way it is now I think I could rebuild the cylinders and they may just go again. Then again, I could be 100% wrong. Maybe they need the back pressure to move a valve???

I'm at a loss. 


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 28 Apr 2016 at 9:05pm
PF,
Get Dan73 to help you He seems pretty good on this stuff.
 Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 8:06am
It looks like CTucker and Tony were both headed down the right path. 

The way I'm reading this the first thing I need to do IS get the cylinders fixed, as it looks like backpressure is part of the deal. I'm thinking it's not the only part of my issue, but it's a start. It does look like - if I'm reading this right, that unless the cylinder creates enough back pressure it won't kick into bypass. 

I'm still open to other information.





Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 8:40am
A 3 point hitch that keeps raising, the usual suspect is the Traction- Booster plunger being pushed in or stuck in. On a model 7000 tractor it is the very outside vertical spool. There is a finger that pushes it down. There needs to be daylight between the finger and the spool. Linkage rusty and sticking or spool rusty and sticking. The spool can be grabbed near the very end and pulled clear up to release oil pressure to the lift cylinders. The leaking cylinder is just a result of old age.


Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 29 Apr 2016 at 8:43am
I may be wrong here but that last paragraph regarding relief valve pressure may have something to do with it. Esp. since the seal has blown on the cylinder. Just my 2 cents


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 7:26am
Too much pressure will blow the side out of pump long before cylinder seal.
Dr is right on what he said.   MACK


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 01 May 2016 at 10:16am
Thanks for the help guys. 

The cylinder seals should be here tomorrow (Monday) and nothing but rain here for the next week. If I can get at it I'll get the cylinders done and take a look at the plunger too. I'll see if I can get the Traction Booster cable freed up while I'm at it. I have a spare cable off my 7040 parts tractor I can probably make work if needed. 

With the rain coming I finished up most of the plowing yesterday with the Massey. We still have one small field left to go, so hopefully I get a chance to make sure it works as it should before next year. 


Posted By: wheatbreeder
Date Posted: 01 May 2016 at 10:39am
Perhaps i am wrong I thought the depth was controlled by the positions level and tractions booster level controlled the sensitivity for depth adjustment 
Morley  


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Farm stuff 8050,6690,175,F2,5050,WD


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 04 May 2016 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

A 3 point hitch that keeps raising, the usual suspect is the Traction- Booster plunger being pushed in or stuck in. On a model 7000 tractor it is the very outside vertical spool. There is a finger that pushes it down. There needs to be daylight between the finger and the spool. Linkage rusty and sticking or spool rusty and sticking. The spool can be grabbed near the very end and pulled clear up to release oil pressure to the lift cylinders. The leaking cylinder is just a result of old age.
Just an update on this one - you were 100% spot on. Thumbs Up

I put the rebuilt cylinders on tonight, no more leakage but they weren't real willing to go down. I pulled up the outer plunger and everything seems to be working as designed. 

I was only able to do a quick test as the sky opened up and I got soaked. It looks like we have a few decent days coming. If things dry up any I'll hook up the plows again and give it a run. 

BTW the original cylinder seals were in ROUGH shape. 

Thanks again. 


Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 04 May 2016 at 5:40pm
Lesson learned: You must listen to your doctor !


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 04 May 2016 at 6:39pm
Oh yeah! I never doubted what he was saying, I just needed to get it back together and try it.


Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 05 May 2016 at 4:50pm
Check all of those linkages and the measurements from the manual so your traction booster and position control work properly. If you just pulled the lever up, it is probably not very free and the next time you get a good pull on the plow to where it will activate the traction booster system, you will likely have the same problem. I just went through and did this to my 7000 this winter during its service, and it took about 2 hours to get everything cleaned up and set, but well worth having it working.

Hurst

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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours


Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 05 May 2016 at 4:59pm
Thanks for the info. The position control works well, the traction booster needs to be freed up.


Posted By: Tony Elo
Date Posted: 15 May 2016 at 10:27am
I searched to find your post,curious how you made it,does it work now?



Posted By: Play Farmer
Date Posted: 15 May 2016 at 11:59am
I haven't been able to give it a full workout but with me standing on it and cycling it, it seems to be working well.

I have one more field that needs plowing, we just need some weather to work with.

It was 84F here on Thursday, today it's pouring with some snow mixed it.

I don't have the Traction Booster freed up yet either, same reason, crappy weather.



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