Removing a stuck Mexican Hat
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=119534
Printed Date: 14 Oct 2025 at 3:27pm
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Topic: Removing a stuck Mexican Hat
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Subject: Removing a stuck Mexican Hat
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 8:10am
| I bought a 220 with Mexican hat dual centers on it. Someone down the line had tried to take them off, and did not do it right. They worked on it quite a bit with a torch, which should have been my first clue. I have a set of Puller bolts that I have successfully used on my 70 series tractors, but the threads in the wedges are already stripped out on the Mexican Hats on the 220. They are mounted flush with the axle, so beating on the end of the axle (which really helped on the others I have done) isnt easy to do. I mounted a dual on one side and let the air out of the inner tire to see if I could work the wedges loose that way, but nothing doing so far. Does anyone have any other ideas? I have owned the tractor about 6 months and have been soaking it with penetrating oil occasionally since it arrived. Thanks in advance. |
Replies:
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 12:05pm
| I would get fine thread nuts that screw on the pusher bolts and a dc welder with 7018 and triple pass around the nuts just welding them over the other holes. The heat from welding will loosen things up, but let it cool on its own until you can hold your hand on it. Try tightening the pusher bolts with an impact wrench. It would be best to have bolts to screw into the nuts as you weld them on to keep splatter out and keep from distorting the threads, but don't use your pusher bolts. |
Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 1:12pm
|
How about pulling from the bolt holes from the inside casting to the Mexican Hat holes? You could use 8 long dual bolts to pull with. A few hits with a hammer and it will slip right off,,,,,,,,, or not. ------------- 2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C |
Posted By: ILGLEANER
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 9:29pm
 ------------- Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated. |
Unit3 wrote:Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2016 at 11:04pm
|
7060- I thought of something similar but didnt figure I could make the weld hold. I also thought of trying to team out the holes and thread them to a larger size but didn't figure that would work very well. Unit 3 - I think I will have to try that. I've got some dual bolts I removed just the other day off another tractor that might do the trick. I had tried "persuading" it in with the bucket of the tl12 and didn't have any luck that way, but I'm willing to try about anything. Thank you all! |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2016 at 7:49am
|
Let us know the outcome Adam! Best of luck!
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 8:59pm
|
would it be room to get a port a power cylinder , lay on the axle with a piece made to fit the inner chock and push against it?? just thinking.. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 9:36pm
| It is really close to the bolts from the inside wedges, like 1/4 inch or less, so I dont know that the port-a- power will work. I do have one that I might investigate with. I started trying to use some dual bolts to pull as suggested above, had some factory made ones that came with some DMI duals that I just took off my 7045. I broke 2 of them off trying to get them tight (normal size wrench, no cheater or anything) so must have had a brittle spot where the clamp/locks had been welded. Ran out of time to try more. Got all our litter spread and working ground now, so this got pushed to the back burner. Thanks for the ideas! |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 10:09pm
|
The pusher bolts are a odd TPI so finding a nut would be hard to do. I would try to drill and rethread all six holes. Then put a piece of flat steel behind wedges for new bolts to push against. Use splitting wedges between wedge and wheel center. Drive splitting wedges in and tighten new bolts. Good luck. MACK
|
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 10:21pm
|
ok, as a last resort , take one stick of dynamite... ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: jorstad brothers
Date Posted: 28 Feb 2016 at 10:44pm
|
the thread is 7/8 12 pitch they dont make a heial for it you could go 9 pitch but you would have to turn out new bolts. ------------- remember plunder than burn |
Posted By: corbinstein
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 6:38am
| One stick of Dynamite under the Mexican, blow the hat right off! |
Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 29 Feb 2016 at 7:41am
| Wasn't sure what the threads were on them. You could go to metric maybe. I know the lug bolt studs off a unverferth grain cart are very close. Might check with Fastenal if you decide to go that route as they would be your best bet for finding something. I don't know why you couldn't cut the heads off some grade 8 bolts and push into the holes first and use regular bolts rather than having something longer machined down on the end. |