301CI allis motor model 649T
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=102439
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 5:17pm
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Topic: 301CI allis motor model 649T
Posted By: pigpenH
Subject: 301CI allis motor model 649T
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 10:31am
| Hello everyone. I have a 301ci 649T allis motor and was wondering if these are good motors or what you guys think of them. I havent had it that long but learning quick about it being ive had some issues to say the least! Its in a Hood slasher for logging I recently purchased and just last week had to buy a used motor as mine took a puke but no idea how many hours were on the one that was in it due to no hour meter.... I will be installing a hour meter now before i put it back to work. I just put rod bearings in this motor 3 weeks ago and things seemed good again(lost oil pressure prior to the bearings) but last week i started the motor up and ran for about 3 hours and something went terribly wrong. I knew by the sounds of it that i would have to rebuild it or find a different one so bought one out of a gleaner and am fitting that to my slasher. My original motor come to find out broke the crank! bearings are 20 over so assuming that maybe this couldve been from the last time the motor was rebuilt maybe the rod bearings were real bad and had weakened the crank? So with this knowledge as i was changing the front plate and cover over to the new to me motor i checked the rod bearings in it (so this is the motor out of the combine with a guess of 2500 to 3500hrs on it) and the rod bearings were wore... into the copper but no damage to any hard parts....main bearings are fine with little to no wear... is this common for this motor to have wore rod bearings at approx 3000 hrs? Thanks in advance for any input. |
Replies:
Posted By: nevans
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 2:28pm
| we change rods and mains at three thousand hours and also put new rod bolts in it Niel |
Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 3:55pm
Thanks Neil... wasnt sure if that was a norm for this motor or what. Appreciate the info! Have a good day! 
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Posted By: JERRY-KS
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 3:58pm
| They are extremely reliable. Has been around since 1963 in various versions. They are in numerous ones of the tractors Allis built. They can occasionally need some TLC, but great engines. JERRY-KS |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 5:35pm
| Crank could have broke from poor machining, if the journals weren't radiused, at the corners... |
Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2015 at 10:15pm
|
Can anyone tell me the correct torque for the rod bearings on this motor? I believe it to be the 649t if it makes a difference. Thanks! |
Posted By: Dnoym N. S. Can.
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2015 at 7:57am
The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information on connecting rod bolt torque specifications for Allis-Chalmers engines. Two different connecting rod and cap mating surface finishes were used and identification can be made by visual inspection. Early style ALL MODELS When installing, use a light amount of engine oil on capscrew threads and on the underside of the capscrew head at the mating surface. Tighten Allis-Chalmers engine models: 2000 series, 3.3 and 4.9-liter series (2200, 2800, 2900, 433 & 649 types, etc.) Later style rods have the rod cap chamfer deleted and a new 12-point capscrew introduced. Capscrew size used is .375" - 24 x 2.00" long, grade Note: Do not use later 12-point capscrews in early-serrated rods with chamfered holes or loosening of capscrews will occur. Early rods may be Allis-Chalmers engine models: 3000 Series, 7.0 liter series (3400, 3500, 3700, 3750 & 670 types, etc.) Middle style rods use smooth machined rod and cap mating surfaces. Socket head capscrew size .437" 20 x 2.156" long, grade 100, tighten Later style rods use smooth machined rod and cap mating surfaces. 12-point capscrew size .437" 20 x 2.156" long, grade 100, tighten Note: Do not use middle or later type hardware in early-serrated connecting rods.*Agkits.com cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of this data. HTH B:-) Dnoym ps http://www.agkits.com/allis-chalmers-7000-7010-and-7020-tractor-data-sheet.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.agkits.com/allis-chalmers-7000-7010-and-7020-tractor-data-sheet.aspx 2200, 433 ENGINES 4 CYLINDER 2800, 2900, 649 ENGINES 6 CYLINDER BORE: 3-7/8” STROKE: 4-1/4” CRANKSHAFT, ROD JOURNAL DI AMETER: 2.3725”-2.3735” CRANKSHAFT, MAIN JOURNAL DIAMETER: 2.747”-2.748” MAIN BEARING CAP - TORQUE: 130-140 FT. LBS. CON ROD CAPSCREW - TORQUE: 40-45 FT. LBS. CYLINDER HEAD CAPSCREW - TORQUE: 150 FT. LBS. INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVE LASH: COLD: .018” HOT: .015
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Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2015 at 3:27pm
| So I got my motor in the slasher and it has a vibration... any ideas? It's not a real bad vibration but still a vibration nonetheless. Im gonna try replacing the harmonic balancer but have my doubts that that is the probelm. |
Posted By: Kansas99
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2015 at 7:43pm
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pigpen you are having some really bad luck. However your at the right site for info to fix your problems. I'm sure that someone will be along to help you out, I wish I knew more I sure would like to help. Are you sure the vibration is from the motor?
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Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2015 at 8:47pm
| Fairly sure... the motor is used as a power plant and turns 3 hydraulic pumps. One off the accessory drive and a double vane pump off the crank which has a hand clutch in between the motor and the pump. I can disengage the clutch and no difference. So that steers me to think its the harmonic balancer or the pilot bearing off the clutch which centers in the crank... the pilot bearingis new but 2 weeks prior to the old motor going out... I will be investigating more tomorrow. Just seeing if anyone had run into a similar problem... im not positive but pretty sure the flywheel only bolts on in the wright position on the crank? Due to one bolt being a shade different position???? |
Posted By: Kansas99
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2015 at 9:32pm
| Maybe try asking on the farm equipment page. You might get a better response from guys in the know. |
Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 08 Mar 2015 at 9:42pm
|
Will do... thanks |
Posted By: pigpenH
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2015 at 6:42am
|
Well guys I figured it out... took the fan belt off this am and everything smoothed out... put different fan on(a little smaller and aluminium) and it smooth as silk now... cannot find anything visually wrong with the old one but im back to work so oh well. My old fan was much heavier and 22inch diameter amd this one is 20inch diameter and aluminium... dont know... but thanks for all the help!!! |
Posted By: Kansas99
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2015 at 9:21am
| Glad you got it figured out pigpen. Hopefully you have good luck with this one. |