E Gleaner Z code engine build
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=100242
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Topic: E Gleaner Z code engine build
Posted By: bert3673
Subject: E Gleaner Z code engine build
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 7:40am
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I have a WD I am building with a z code gleaner engine. Looking for suggestions from anyone to get more horses out of it. Things like cam grind specs, head mods, carb size, etc. Currently it is stock and I have a Marvel TSX-464 carb available. Also any suggestions on what to replace E the Gleaner governor with WD45/D17 is what I have heard. Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 8:15am
How much are you looking to spend? Or better yet how much power do you want to buy?
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 8:17am
As far as the governor I just added a throttle arm and used the existing internals when I built ours.
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 8:22am
Whats wrong with the Gleaner carb? should be tsx853? We have a built E gleaner engine built, with custom cam, flat top pistons, I might part with, I am 1/2 owner in it, we way beyond that but talks of a "farmstock" tractor is in the air, I would have to check with partner.
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 8:23am
[QUOTE=cotncrzy] As far as the governor I just added a throttle arm and used the existing internals when I built ours.D17 spring
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 9:52am
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Don't want to dump a ton in it but not opposed to $1000-$2000 range. If I'm correct, fwhp is 67, wouldn't mind 10-20 hp more. Will be pulling 2nd gear 3500 - 4000 lb super farm class.
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 9:55am
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Was already in the WD chassis when I bought it. Carb on it is a small zenith not sure the size, but not a fan. Don't really want to run a prebuilot motor, want to build from ground up myself if you know what I mean. Really just looking for ideas from folks who have been there done that.
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 9:56am
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 12:20pm
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I think you need to actually compete with what you got for a full season to see what it will and will not do. Just my opinion.
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 12:32pm
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Considered that as well, but have a bud with the same setup with a stock z code and it's proven to need more umph at the end of the track. Mine as is would be a really close comparison.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 12:45pm
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A D-19 style Marvel-Schebler carb will add instant HP with very little work (other than making it fit). When your buddy sees what that does, he'll have one too.
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Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 1:49pm
Agreed!!!!
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C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 2:14pm
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So we're talking the 848 Marvel?
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 3:09pm
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That would be correct. There are other engines that used similar versions of it.....some Oliver's and MM's come to mind.
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Posted By: mike a
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2015 at 9:52pm
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175 cam,motec carb re-build,4 1/8 wd pistons,175 gov spring,good valve job also run rc rear end with 15.5-38 rubber
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 11:30am
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I was with you right up to the RC rearend, those are hard to come by!
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 12:49pm
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And even harder to use in a WD .
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2015 at 5:44pm
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a few moons ago we built a few engines - we used a WD overbore kit , Lunati ground cam , cleaned up the head with drimmel , guides and valves, made the intake ports round and matched to the head, hogged out the manifold throat where the G carb with adaptor plate bolted, made the throttle shaft mods necessary, ran premium gas - and pto hp went on our dyno from just barely 50 hp to 64 hp at 1650 rpm . These are not competitive now , but we still have 2 of them on the farm and use them in a D17Iv and a WD with retarded timing on reg gas (sorry sold both G carbs in case you are wondering). We switched the D17 back to the 175 carb and installed a stock D17 brass ventura and it; it behaves better and uses much less fuel as we only use on auger and piddle jobs. The plastic ventura is in the center of my pickup armrest and I noticed my grandson has rendered it non useable Grrr ( note to self - I forgot the card that came with the cam and when the valve .cover started leaking I reset the valves to oem specs - and promptly bent 4 push rods.. Lunati had said .019 lash ..)
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2015 at 7:55am
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Question of curiosity, I know Motec is Strickland MM when it comes to anything outside of carbs, is there anyone out there that offers the same service as them for strictly AC? I know Denny's leans towards IH/Farmall.
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2015 at 9:20pm
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Will the stock WD flat top pistons work in the Gleaner block or is the wrist pin location in the wrong place?
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2015 at 8:03am
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the ones we ordered from TISCO did - some say they are too high compression - as we stated we have 2 in use.... if I had it to do over again I would make a mini power crater in them via machine work, about .100 bowl.
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Posted By: mike a
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2015 at 10:15pm
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rc rears can be had for about $500 or find a sherman step down trans for about $300
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Posted By: mike a
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2015 at 10:17pm
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use a wd-45 diesel rear end in your wd also about $500 or early d-17 ring &pinion
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Posted By: bert3673
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2015 at 8:40am
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Any recommendations for a custom cam grind? Spoke with Denny's and they basically want you to "trust" them on the specs of their custom grind. No information regaring lobe separation or duration, only "it works best between 800 and 1800 rpm". Not much help.
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Posted By: steve fischer
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2015 at 1:30pm
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i have carbs set up like the 175 m/s for sale bolts right on thanks steve 507 766 0551
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Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2015 at 4:28pm
I would stay away from anyone who is unable to give you specs and is unable to explain how and why the specs effect the engine.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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