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dkbowyer 
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Location: missouri
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 Topic: Need my 185 Fuel Injection Pump Rebuilt
Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 10:47pm |
Hey there, I have a problem with my Allis 185 that I posted here last summer. I can start the tractor but it will only run a minute or so before dying. I think I got a small amount of water in the fuel so I was advised to have the pump rebuilt on this forum. Well, I'm just getting to it and I'm having a ton of trouble finding someone to rebuild it. The local shops want to send it off and charge a bunch of money. I found Abilene Machine who will only charge $645. I put in the order and the pump never showed up. I called. They didn't have a core so OK I'll send mine. They say they'll send the Fed Ex to pick it up and to have it off and boxed. Fed Ex never showed up. I'm kinda scared to send them my pump now if they can't pull it out long enough to even place an order. Do I want to send my pump a state away and never see it again? I'd rather find someone else. Please, tell me where to send this pump for rebuild! I'm in southwest Missouri if it's in driving distance but I can ship. Thanks!!
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:03pm |
On a previous post, DMiller said he sent his 180 pump here and said they were fast.
Capital Diesel Injection at Jefferson City
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year:
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:06pm |
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Thanks! That's not too far. I just sent an email to Injpump Ed to see if he still rebuilds. I'll check on these guys too. Thanks!!
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BPM75
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:07pm |
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Im not saying that your pump doesnt need rebuilt but did you check the return line going back to tank, cause if it is plugged it will do exactly what you are describing. As far as where to send your pump I assume you done an online search for diesel shops in your area, I know the local one here wants about 900 to rebuild one. Maybe someone on here closer to you can be more help.
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DanD
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:07pm |
This is a ways away for you, but they do good work. My dad had the pump
for his 185 rebuilt here several years ago. I think it was around $750
at that time, but don't quote me on that. http://www.disnet.com
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BPM75
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:09pm |
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I need to type faster there were no replys when i started post. lol
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:10pm |
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I unhooked the return line and could blow through it to the tank so I assume it's clear. I wish it was that. Thanks!!
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 03 Mar 2012 at 11:34pm |
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do you have a fuel sediment bowl under the tank? when you start the tractor, jump off and see if it sucks down? if so the little pipe that sticks up inside the tank is probably almost plugged.
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stray
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 2:21am |
Not sure where you are in Missouri, but here are some other shops in central Missouri that rebuild pumps. I had my 190XT's pump rebuilt at Hartz Diesel in Fayette 660-248-2662. And Show-me Diesel in Columbia 573-474-0447 Jason was a big help to me getting a kit for my turbo. I would recommend either of these before Capital Diesel, not that Capital Diesel don't do good work but I think these shop do as good and are a little cheaper on cost.
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1969 190XT series 3
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 2:40am |
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Ok, the pump is off now so I can't check it unless I put it back together. What do you mean by "sucked down?" The fuel is sucked down dry? Would this mean the line from the sediment bowl to the tank is blocked? I checked all the other lines but not this one. Can I take off the bowl and run a wire backwards down the line to the tank and figure out if this is the problem? Thanks for the help!!
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 2:42am |
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I'm way down by Joplin Missouri in the southwest corner.
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stray
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 6:11am |
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What Shameless is saying is if when the tractor dies you can see what looks like air in the top of the sediment bowl then you have a restriction between the sediment bowl and the tank or the tank vent is plugged. I say looks like air because it is truely a vacuum. And unless your sediment bowl has been moved from the bottom of the tank the only thing left would be the stand pipe in the tank. You can put a clean bucket under the fuel line and turn the fuel on and see if you get a nice good flow of fuel and let if run a while and make sure it don't spot. If it starts fine and then stops or slows way down fairly quick then the pipe that Shameless is talking about could be your problem. Or if it runs for a good while then slows take the fuel cap off and see if it starts again if it does then it is a tank vent plugged. And I would think that there would be diesel shops that would rebuild pumps themselves around Joplin or Springfield as big as they are.
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1969 190XT series 3
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Jim in MO
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 7:25am |
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Go to Taylor diesel in Columbia,MO phone # 800-568-2248. Just get two back my cost was 425.00 each. Jim in MO.
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stray
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 8:34am |
Jim I haven't heard of Taylor Diesel, where in Columbia are they located?
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1969 190XT series 3
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Jim in MO
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 8:45am |
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Stray It is run by Jason dad. Jason lost a 190 XT pump. Jim in MO. P.S. Stray I,m west of Sedalia.
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stray
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 9:23am |
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Well I take it you know where Syracuse is. We should get together sometime and talk Orange.
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1969 190XT series 3
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pirlbeck
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 10:10am |
A very simple way to test for a restricted fuel return is to loosen the two screws on the timing window when it is running and starting to die. Be sure to peel the gasket away from the pump housing so fuel can bleed off. If it runs OK with the screws loose and fuel leaking out and dies when you tighten the screws up, you have a restricted return......either in the pump (bad governor ring, plugging the return fitting) or the fuel return line back to the tank.
Pat
Edited by pirlbeck - 04 Mar 2012 at 10:11am
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 10:47am |
 dkbowyer wrote:
Thanks! That's not too far. I just sent an email to Injpump Ed to see if he still rebuilds. I'll check on these guys too. Thanks!! |
Yes I do. Thanks, Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 11:38am |
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DK....yeah...stray said it better than me! that was what was wrong with mine, when i thought it was the pump also! several mechamics told me it was the pump also. soooo i did have the pump rebuilt at a pump shop in omaha. and after getting it back on the tractor...it acted the same way! there for having to continue looking for the problem! that's when i took the sediment bowl off and turned the fuel back on, it only dripped out slowly! tried running a wire up inside the hole, but that really didn't work well. it did require taking the tank off and i took and power washer to the tank sticking the wand way inside and well blowing the hole out each way. that solved my problem....hope it will be as simple for you! anyway i do have a rebuilt pump on, but sure coulda saved alot of money!
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SHAMELESS
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 11:49am |
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also....look in the tank for something that may be floating around plugging the exit line from the tank. if ya'll remember last year i had my tractor sabotaged! the tractor would run fine for awhile, then it would quit. never knew when it would happen! sooooo on one rainy day i pulled it into the shop, drained as much fuel outta the tank i could, stuck one of those little flexible lights down inside and there was something in there! i fished and fished with alot of different things, but couldn't grab it! went into town and found the longest pair of needle nose pliers i could get. that really didn't work either! soooo off came the tank again. someone had put a tampon in the fuel tank!!!!! did the power washer thing again to make sure i got any stray fibers out. runs like a top now! glad who-ever did that didn't do it to one of the big tractors...that woulda been a b***h!
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Jim in MO
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 1:08pm |
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Stray. Will some day. go to Columbia, Monday be back by 4:00 pm might be able to stop by Jim in MO. Thank You
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 1:26pm |
OK I just pulled off the sediment bowl and it's a steady quick drip. Maybe a drip a second or a little quicker. Is this not right? Will it need to come in a stream? If this is it, I'd sure rather clean a tank then spend $550 on a pump overhaul. Thanks!!
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 2:07pm |
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Hey Shameless!! I found it!! I took off the sediment bowl and it had a steady drip and I came back in and just let it drip awhile. I went back out and the drip had almost stopped. I pulled the inline off and it had a full flow. I pulled off the sediment bowl unit and it had a STINKING MOTH plugging up the inflow. Can you believe that!! A stupid moth has shut down my tractor since last summer! Now I feel kinda dumb but each time I pulled the sediment bowl it had a steady drip and I thought that was enough to say it wasn't plugged. Whew!! Well thanks a lot guys! You helped me a ton. Thanks Shameless especially!!
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 3:39pm |
One last question. When putting the fuel injection pump back on do I need to lube the shaft at all????????????? Thanks for the help guys!
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 3:46pm |
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I'll bet the flex ring is still broken apart. While it's off you can still have it freshened up. May not even cost $550. Do you see any black bits in the fuel in pump? How bout wear grooves in the pilot tube where shaft seals ride? I just hate to see you have it fill the crankcase with fuel now and take out some bearings. Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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DougG
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 3:49pm |
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Wire the throttle linckage wide open , lube the umbrella seals and slide it on ,OR i take the gear off the shaft and slide the shaft in it on a bench , then put the gear on the shaft and mesh with the other gears and tighten the nut
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 3:53pm |
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What's the best lube to use?
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DMiller
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 4:02pm |
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I had removed the screen in the sediment bowl a few years ago due to starvation of the pump at that time(was during bush hog season and needed done), I was putting a lot of trust in the fuel filter but I keep it changed often. I would HIGHLY recommend Capital, they had my pump done in three working days and it runs like a top now. They rebuilt the pump including a new return fitting, supplied all the banjo washer seals and new shaft seals with a seal/pump installation tool for $596 and some change. Cleaned even the injector lines banjo bolts for me as I sent them with it but did not need to.
They found the return fitting check ball had been gone for some time so my pump was going bad long before I got the tractor. It starts so much better now it surprises me!
For the shaft reinstall they recommended lube similar to STP.
Edited by DMiller - 04 Mar 2012 at 4:03pm
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stray
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 4:05pm |
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I was told STP or vasiline something that is slicker than motor oil. when you slide the pump on to the first umbrella seal use a pick and gentlely work it in to the pump. once it is in then push it in a little bit and then pull it back tell you can just see the base of the seal and check to make sure that it isn't folded over. Then slide it on and start bolts and time the pump and your ready to tighten it up.
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1969 190XT series 3
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dkbowyer
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Posted: 04 Mar 2012 at 4:07pm |
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Thanks guys!!
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