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Ted in NE-OH 
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Austinburg OH
Points: 1703
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 Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 5:29pm |
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Sandy Lake Implement has them, see advertisers
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Sponsored Links
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87646
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Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 5:40pm |
Tim, i know your rebuilt or heavily repaired the motor... at the FRONT of the hollow cam shaft is a small spring loaded plug that helps maintain pressure in the system... You remember seeing that ? ........... I new good pump is always a benefit !!! 
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
Points: 42
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Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 7:02pm |
I contacted Sand Lake today and they can check out my pump. I also found a pump off a 1940 B block that I may try.
Steve I did place the spring and thrust plunger back in the front of the cam shaft - spring first and then plunger toward the gear cover. Both looked good so I cleaned and replaced them.
I may take the gear cover off to double check and rule out the thrust plunger and spring as a problem.
Tim
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87646
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Posted: 05 Apr 2021 at 7:44pm |
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Pump repair might fix it... Maybe wait on the front end inspection ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
Points: 42
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 11:00am |
here is a picture of the C as I have been fine tuning her:)
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 11:48am |
Well guys I have been making some progress:)
I now have good oil pressure and prime (most of the time)!!
What I did is take the tractor apart again and replaced the C oil pump housing with a B oil pump housing. I put the new rebuild kit I had put in the C into the B housing. The B housing looked a little better than the C. I rechecked the new check ball. spring and its fit into the rotor and they were good. The main difference is I only used one gasket under the cover instead of two as on the C.
I had found an old 0-80 psi oil gauge off of a C tractor and tried it so I could see an actual pressure number. After I reconnected the tractor and tried the oil pump it would not pick up prime so I primed the oil pump and had some pressure on the old gauge. The gauge measured about 2/3 way between 0-20 psi markers so this was much better:)
On Monday my new 0-30 psi oil gauge came in and I put it on the tractor to see what I got. I did not re-prime the oil pump and tried it with the new gauge.
Well amazingly it picked up prime from sitting over night and the new gauge registered oil pressure and it kept climbing to 20psi:)  It has settled being between about 15psi and 20psi depending on rpm and running temp it seams. It has keep prime all but one time when after running it 5-6 times it would not re-prime on its own.
Yesterday it had prime from the start and did not lose it 
Below are a few pictures of the gauge and the rocker arm getting oiled
On the rocker arm you can see the oil being pumped and moved along like it is supposed to be soooo I got oil everywhere 
Edited by kelso - 14 Apr 2021 at 9:03pm
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
Points: 42
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 12:18pm |
What I have now run into after getting oil pressure is the tractor dying.
While working on the oil pressure issue I have run the engine a short amount of time i.e. 10-60 sec are so. The engine starts up just fine and runs smooth with no signs of sputter and cutting out.
After I got oil pressure and ran the engine longer it has started cutting out and going dead. I have gotten the temperature up to 170 degrees but the cutting out has happened at different temps.
I have a rebuilt mag. new plugs and wires and timing has been good.
The engine will be running smoothly and then just cuts out with very little signs of lugging down. The most it has run before cutting out is just under 2 minutes.
I have re-checked the fuel system and it all looks good.
Any ideals????
Tim
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87646
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 12:31pm |
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If it starts back up within a couple minutes, it probably is NOT electrical.. your running out of gas.. Sounds like it runs on what is in the bowl, then dies out... bowl refills slowly, then you can run another 2 minutes.. Restriction in gas tank, sendiment bowl, line or carb inlet... or bad float level.. Pull the line off at the carb and put into a bucket.. see if you get a constant flow from the tank / bowl, line... that will narrow down where to look.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Luke114
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Joined: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Washington
Points: 109
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 1:35pm |
That looks like pretty solid oil pressure for a C. What does the tube that goes up inside your oil filter look like? Is it sort of rounded off with a small hole? Or just a straight hollow tube?
And by the way....WOW!! Your photos went from rust bucket to shiny! That thing is really looking good. Were you able to save the original gas tank, radiator, tool box?
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11992
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 2:20pm |
Man, you've been hammerin' on that baby! From junk pile to a shiny gem that runs! Great job so far. I'm wit' Steve. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem...... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
Points: 42
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 3:19pm |
Thank guys...I will recheck the gas system all the way through.
I had the carburetor rebuilt by Sandy Lake and have not done any adjustment to it other than the fuel mixture screw. When I turn the screw there is not any noticeable change in the running. Is there any other adjustment on the carburetor???
Here is a picture before I got the valves adjusted and started the engine the first time. I was dry fitting everything to see how they fit but getting the radiator and cowling to fit was time consuming.
I have a lot of pictures on the rebuild and video of it starting and running but they are two much for this site to store. I am working on getting them on my Dropbox account so everyone can view them.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 3:21pm |
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how about a little story about the PREP , PRIMER, PAINT... what brand ? Looks VERY NICE !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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kelso
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Joined: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Port Ludlow, WA
Points: 42
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Posted: 14 Apr 2021 at 3:41pm |
Luke114 ... the oil tube in the oil filter is hollow with two side holes at the top along with a hole at the very top. The top of the tube is rounded. Below is a picture of the tube and you can just see the side holes and the top hole and rounded tub. You should be able to zoom in to see the holes better.
Luke114....The new parts are the battery box, door to tool box, water pump, and seat. The fenders, instrument box, gas tank, front rims and one rear rim are off a C parts tractor as original ones were two far gone. The tires are off a C and B parts tractor. The radiator core is new but housing is original. The cowling, hood, tool box, one rear rim, and all main parts are original but cleaned and rebuilt as needed.
Tim
Edited by kelso - 14 Apr 2021 at 8:54pm
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kelso
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Location: Port Ludlow, WA
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Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 11:42am |
I have gotten some of the videos I have taken of the engine starting, running and oil pressure gauge on my Dropbox so you can look at them.
This is the link to my folder with pictures and videos of the AC model C restoration. I will be adding move pictures and videos as I can.
Below are the first two times that the tractor engine has been cranked in 40+ years.
We had no oil pressure at first and had to prime the oil pump if engine set 10+ minutes but it runs and sounds good
After we got good oil pressure the engine ran nicely but would just die. You can hear it running and then die....trying to figure out what the cause is.
This is a video of the rocker arm being oiled. Oil pressure is running between 15-20 psi.
More to follow
Tim
Edited by kelso - 15 Apr 2021 at 11:50am
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Luke114
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Joined: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Washington
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Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 2:27pm |
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6 volt sure makes them grunt a little on a tight rebuild. Looks like first rate work all around. And what's that project car in the back? Is that a Toyota?
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Wispitfiremike
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Joined: 28 Mar 2017
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 8:23pm |
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Guessing GM product in background of one, Caprice or maybe a Riviera, the other I think maybe Peugot?
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
Location: ia
Points: 3908
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Posted: 15 Apr 2021 at 8:37pm |
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Riviera for sure. I see boattail glass in the rear. Don't know the imports that well
Edited by plummerscarin - 15 Apr 2021 at 8:43pm
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Alberta Phil
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 10:30am |
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Blue car is a Rover. Can't tell if it's a 2000 (4 cyl) or a 3500 (V8)
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Luke114
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Location: Washington
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Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 10:54am |
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A rover!! Ok that makes sense now. Thought it was one of the early Japanese models. They both had that styling that looks like a big American car, then you realize they are pint sized.
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kelso
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Location: Port Ludlow, WA
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Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 3:20pm |
And Albert Phil wins the prize It is a 1969 Rover 3500S and the other car in the background is a 1971 Buick Riviera.
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kelso
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Location: Port Ludlow, WA
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Posted: 16 Apr 2021 at 8:45pm |
Well guys I think I may have found the source of my engine dying problem. I have taken the carburetor and fuel line system apart several time and everything looked good as it was all new or newly re-built.
Today I noticed that the float valve was not dropping when the floats dropped down. This is all new but I took it apart and worked on this making sure the float valve dropped every time the floats dropped.
The rubber tip of the new float valve must have been sticking and not letting fuel into the carburetor.
I put the carburetor back on the tractor and it cranked like normal and ran good for a little longer but still died.
Without doing anything different I cranked the engine and it ran for ~5 minutes and then for ~10 minutes before dying. These are the longest times the engine has run before dying
Let's see what tomorrow brings 
Tim
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kelso
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Posted: 17 Apr 2021 at 8:02pm |
Out in the Sun!
Tim
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kelso
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Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 3:28pm |
Does anyone have a source for the lever spring (207883) used on the throttle control lever on a C? I have one I got at a hardware store to fit the shaft size of the lever control bolt but it's not strong enough.
Tim
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Luke114
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Location: Washington
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Posted: 20 Apr 2021 at 3:52pm |
Very cool video! Sounds like you've whipped the fuel problem. Float needles can really be a pain sometimes.
For oddball hardware I've always liked McMaster Carr. Big spring selection that you can spec both by size and spring rate, and one of the best online catalogs out there.
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kelso
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Location: Port Ludlow, WA
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Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 3:13pm |
luke114 good ideal. I use MacMaster-Carr for bolts but have not through about them as a source for springs.
I have found an old throttle control lever spring so I have a sample to use to find a proper new spring.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 22 Apr 2021 at 7:14pm |
If you are looking for a new throttle surge spring, we carry them in stock. Our P/N 1601-07C on our website if interested... Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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