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truckerfarmer 
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Location: Watertown, SD
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 Topic: Mounting Rear Tractor Tires
Posted: 17 Feb 2017 at 9:32pm |
 Lonn wrote:
My neighbor has one of these for his truck tires
[TUBE]BVhO2ML1k48[/TUBE]
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You said something about tires? I didn't notice, was there a tire in that video?
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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DiyDave
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Posted: 17 Feb 2017 at 5:55pm |
That little screw tool is the cats meow. Hadda set of 14.9 X 26's on a JD 430 industrial, that my tire guy gave up on, I bought that tool, when Gemplers had it fer about $150. One of the best things I ever bought. 
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Dick L
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Posted: 17 Feb 2017 at 3:17pm |
Eldon (WA) wrote:
MACK wrote:
Getting the second bead off the rim was the worst part until I chained the rim to bottom of forklift and tire to forks, raised lift it came right off. MACK
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I used to do mine that way but it was still a pain and hard on the tire. Now I lift the rim with the Skidloader and get the tire/wheel to almost stand vertical, then use the spoon to get the tire started then I take a long skinny one and slip it between the tire and bead, shove it in as far as I can, swing the handle so the other end grabs the rim lip and then pull the bar outward. You have great leverage this way and I just work my way around from the top down on both sides and the tire just falls off when you are about half way around. It is basically the opposite of putting the tire back on by sitting the rim on top of the tire. |
I have stood them up against a steel post at the factory and broke the beads with the forks on the fork truck. The 24" I have laid on the forks and used the 50 ton hydraulic press. Larger than 24" will not fit far enough back in the press.
Another way!
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Lonn
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Posted: 17 Feb 2017 at 6:25am |
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My neighbor has one of these for his truck tires
[TUBE]BVhO2ML1k48[/TUBE]
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
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daddy2kids
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Location: Australia
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Posted: 16 Feb 2017 at 10:28pm |
It was my experience with my dad through fixing farm equipment like tractor that I got to learn to become handy with mechanics. To me I saw him as a McGyver of sorts when it comes to using power tools in ways not one would use conventionally. I'm teaching my kids what I learned from my dad because I don't want them to not learn anything physical and just be staring at their phones and computer. This is a good place to learn everything I can about our equipments. Thanks.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 21 Nov 2016 at 12:59pm |
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Ever use Frey Lube? It's kind of like stiff grease and will seal tires to rusty wheels. The Goodyear store I worked at years ago had us use it on all aluminum wheels so they didn't corrode and cause a bead leak.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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truckerfarmer
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Posted: 20 Nov 2016 at 8:26am |
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Had an old-timer teach me how to do truck tires years ago. Made his own lube, bottle of Dawn dish soap and a couple capfulls of floor wax. Was slimey as snot, but you could almost throw the tire on the rim. As for split rims, if you don't have a cage, lay the rim on the ground with the ring facing down. That way if it does pop of when airing up it may lift the tire off the ground a few inches, but at least it doesn't send the ring flying up a take your head off. Not a bad idea to wrap a heavy log chain around it also. The way we did it was a 2 man operation. Need a tire Chuck that clamps on. One guy kinks the hose while the other guy seats the bead. When the bead seats, release the hose.
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it!
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 20 Nov 2016 at 4:32am |
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I agree, I wanna see a vid of Eldon werking!
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HD6GTOM
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Posted: 19 Nov 2016 at 9:10pm |
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Are you all kidding everyone. I was 22 years in the farm tire business you guys are doing this the HARD way. Do not use atf or grease on tubes, beads. Do not put gas on the beads it AIN`T going to help, it too is a petroleum product and will eventually cause rubber deteriation. Buy a jug of rubber lube from NAPA. It isnt the slickest rubber lube but it is usually in stock. It is far slicker than dish soap. If you are buying new tubes, only buy the HEAVY DUTY RADIAL tubes. They are the only tubes that are any good.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 19 Nov 2016 at 1:17pm |
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vegetable oil is my tire lube...kinda messy but no worse than the goop at the tire store
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 18 Nov 2016 at 5:31pm |
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I just had the time to see if the tire machine at work would pop the beads and am happy to say it popped them loose no problem. I guess now I need a couple irons to get the tire off the rim.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 6:05pm |
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I agree with Eldon on the screw type bead breaker. It works where other methods fail, and is a lot safer. The professionals use a hydraulic version.y
I also found that the tire lube works better than anything else. I got it from Gemplers
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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alan-nj
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 10:28am |
My father was in the trucking business. About 50 years ago, I started knocking apart truck tires for him using the wedge below to break the beads. I was about 10 or 12 years old. 10:00/20's with lock rims. For about 10 years while I still lived at home I did hundreds of them. No safety cage, and never had a problem. Wish I had a coin for every swing with the sledge hammer I took at that thing. I have the wedge now and still use it. I have no idea when he first bought it, but is was well used when I started with it. BTW, it was made by Ken Tool. I guess they've been around for a while. On old tires that are really stuck, gas will really help loosen the bead. Obviously the longer the tire has been on, the harder it is to get off. Bought a wd45 last year for the tires, which probably had been on since the 60's. On the first tire, it took me and my wedge, down pressure from the front end loader, and driving on it with another tractor over 4 hours to break it loose. For the 2nd tire, I took it to the local tire shop. Cost me $20 bucks to have it dismounted. $20 bucks well spent......
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If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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Hockeygoon
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 8:36am |
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Just had the bead broke on 50 year old D17 rear tire. Laid it flat on the ground and put the outrigger from the backhoe on one side and used the bucket to push down on the other side. Took about 2 minutes to do what would have been a good couple hours of work.
I have used the highlift jack method to break a bead - but on old nasty rusty rims I've found even all the weight of a D17 isn't enough to break one loose.
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 8:28am |
Ted J wrote:
Eldon, since you are our expert on tire changing, how about a video of you doing one that way?!?!  Sure, just need you to come out and hold the camera...
Everybody else agree??
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 7:28am |
Best way I have found is take it to the tire place down the road. 
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 7:15am |
Me Too! Best tool money I have spent in years.
Eldon (WA) wrote:
My latest investment...should have bought one years ago.
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Ted J
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Posted: 14 Nov 2016 at 4:26am |
Eldon, since you are our expert on tire changing, how about a video of you doing one that way?!?! Everybody else agree??
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 11:33pm |
MACK wrote:
Getting the second bead off the rim was the worst part until I chained the rim to bottom of forklift and tire to forks, raised lift it came right off. MACK
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I used to do mine that way but it was still a pain and hard on the tire. Now I lift the rim with the Skidloader and get the tire/wheel to almost stand vertical, then use the spoon to get the tire started then I take a long skinny one and slip it between the tire and bead, shove it in as far as I can, swing the handle so the other end grabs the rim lip and then pull the bar outward. You have great leverage this way and I just work my way around from the top down on both sides and the tire just falls off when you are about half way around. It is basically the opposite of putting the tire back on by sitting the rim on top of the tire.
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Ray54
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 10:05pm |
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How many of you have tried changing tires with the wheel still on tractor?
The first time was a new tire(maybe been on a year) with a bad tube on a combine(not mine). Tire professional had knuckle boom lift arm on his truck. Got the end of boom in the bead just like a tubeless auto tire.
The second was White 2-60 (1975) 3 or 4 years ago, original 16.9 x 30 tires on it yet. One had to be filled every day to us it a little. Looked for used tires and it sat about a year. Guy living next door doing independent mechanic and truck tire work had done a smaller tractor tires for $25 each. The first was done before I could leave what I was doing to see how he did it.The second one didn't go so good. He was using a regular 8 or 10 lbs tire hammer and beat until he could not swing it effectively anymore (smoking and pot use where not helping).
After he told me the first time of not taking wheel the off tractor,I assumed he had a bead breaker like Eldon pictured but so. I use to split a lot of fire wood by hand and could transfer that swing into doing alright with a tire hammer. But would be lost trying to hit it on the tractor. Having damaged nerves in right hand I don't get a good grip anymore and wood splitting is not to good so tire beating is out altogether.
Last tires I beat I used big pry bar with a 30 degree angle at the tip and steel post pounder. Worked real good ,but was not a tire that had rusted on wheel over 30 years ether.
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Johnwilson_osf
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 9:27pm |
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We use all of the above for tires. The one trick that we have is for tires that are still on the tractor. We had to put a new tube in the rear of our 6080, so after we pumped the calcium out, we put one of our drop hitches in the receiver of the truck sideways. Then we back up until the hitch is aligned with the bead. Then we gently back up. Turn the tire 90 degrees, and do the same thing. Usually at 180 degrees, she pops off.
Once she is broken, we can use the tools and spoons to pull the tire partly off, and then replace.
The other trick we have is for filling tires. We had an old PTO powered pump (the type you can get at Tractor Supply) that did not pump well on the sprayer. I think the bushings are worn from all the chemical. So I plumbed it with Quick Connect fittings, and got the Stem adapter, and when she is all hooked up, we turn the valve stem down, and turn on the Pump. She pulls the liquid out into 55 gallon drums. All we have to do is swap the quick connect hoses to pump the calcium back in. Haven't had to call the tire guy in a while.
John
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JW in MO
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 9:03pm |
MACK wrote:
Have been told to pour gas around beads, let it soak in and they will brake loose easy. Never tried it and wouldn't want to on a good tire or tube. MACK
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I had a tire guy do that to a fluid filled tire I had to replace the tube on 6 years or so ago, (probably 10 if I looked it up). He pumped out the fluid, used an air powered bead breaker to get a gap started, rotated it to the top and used a dish soap bottle of gasoline and squirted enough on to run all the way around the bead, let it sit a couple minutes and it seemed easier to get the bead to break loose. He rinsed it off and used some slimy stuff rather liberally when he put it back together and so far everything is good.
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Maximum use of available resources!
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MACK
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 8:28pm |
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Getting the second bead off the rim was the worst part until I chained the rim to bottom of forklift and tire to forks, raised lift it came right off. MACK
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MACK
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 8:21pm |
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Have been told to pour gas around beads, let it soak in and they will brake loose easy. Never tried it and wouldn't want to on a good tire or tube. MACK
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BrianC
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 5:59pm |
Slide impact bead breaker works good for me. bead breaker
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Leon B MO
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 5:03pm |
I had a very bad experience this fall breaking a bead on an 18.4x38. Still healing, I'll post a thread when it heals a bit more, telling the whole story. A split second of in-attention that I'll pay for for a long time. BE CAREFULL! Leon B
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:19pm |
and my backup.... 
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:17pm |
My latest investment...should have bought one years ago.
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:11pm |
[QUOTE=Ted J]
Doesn't everyone have a high-lift jack??
Very good picture Ted. All you need is a jack and something to jack against.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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Ted J
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Posted: 13 Nov 2016 at 3:09pm |
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You just use the bottom of the hitch for the top jack lip and use the bottom plate of the jack against the tire bead. Pops right off! I just use the rope to insure that the top of the jack doesn't slip out backwards off the tongue of the hitch.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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