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Milton engine starter switch |
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ACinSC
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Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3153 |
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Topic: Milton engine starter switchPosted: Yesterday at 12:03pm |
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Came with a old Penske timing light I bought. Can't get it to work. Red clip goes to pos battery post. Black clip,neg post. Blue clips to white wire on D 15 solenoid? This sound correct? Switch is probably at least 50 years old. Thanks
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89129 |
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Posted: 19 hours 7 minutes ago at 6:52pm |
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Depends on how the switch is made.. Are the 3 wires all smaller gauge like 16 or 14 gauge ? Normally a "SWITCH" just needs a hot wire ( red) and a signal wire to the solenoid... Push the button and you put 12v to the solenoid small terminal and it pulls in the coil and the two BIG LUGS are connected... This assumes the solenoid or the second SMALL terminal age grounded to the frame to complete the signal circuit.
![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 19 hours 4 minutes ago at 6:55pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3153 |
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Posted: 10 hours 42 minutes ago at 3:17am |
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Yeah Steve,all the 3 wires are kinda small. Push button twists from crank to start. Also the red wire has a fuse which looks good to me
Don't have any like it. I'll buy some and see what happens Thanks |
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89129 |
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Posted: 3 hours 56 minutes ago at 10:03am |
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take a volt meter.. or a battery and bulb... and connect between the RED and the WHITE wire , then push the button and see if you have continuity.. If that dont work, check between the red and the black for continuity... I have no idea why it has 3 wires..... I guess you should have continuity on one when you PUSH the button and maybe on the other when you TWIST the button ??
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dave in PA
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Mars/Wexford PA Points: 2629 |
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Posted: 3 hours 40 minutes ago at 10:19am |
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I would think that none go to ground. red (fused) goes on battery, one on starter solenoid, one on coil +. Not sure, just my guess, but a meter can tell you quickly.
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ACinSC
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Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 3153 |
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Posted: 1 hour 41 minutes ago at 12:18pm |
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Thanks Steve and Dave. I'll see what I can figure out. The controller twists from crank or start and then you press the button. Wish it came with directions. Thanks again
Edited by ACinSC - 1 hour 37 minutes ago at 12:22pm |
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 89129 |
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Posted: 44 minutes ago at 1:15pm |
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Dave is probably right.. When you TWIST it, thats like turning on the KEY.. you get Ignition and Accessories... like power to the COIL.... Pushing the button is the START/ CRANK position.... You just need to figure out which wire is which.. ONE will be connected to RED when you TWIST.. Other will get hot when you push the button..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34423 |
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Posted: 3 minutes ago at 1:56pm |
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Big question is... is the engine starter switch still good? Most remote starter buttons were just two wire for cranking the engine only. there are 3 and 4 wire remotes too but google search doesn't really show those types. Back in the 70's the Tech collage had the three wire remotes so you could start engines right on the test stand. Hook up a battery, connect the fuel line and clip on the remote and start run and shut off the engine with the remote. If you were going to run the engine longer than a couple minutes, then you needed to hook up a water line too. Three wire remote - The red wire clipped on the hot post on solenoid, black goes to IGN small post (two post solenoids) on solenoid or to coil. and the blue wire should be momentary contact that engages the solenoid for start.
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