Military Vet/New farmer. Seeking grain head info.

Good evening, Everyone,

I'm new to this site. As I am new to farming. I recently got out of the military after 14 years in the Air Force as an aircraft engine technician. My wife and I bought some acreage that I plan on farming. I grew up in a small town and I always wanted to have my own farm. I recently purchased a M2 Gleaner that came with a 16ft grain head. I have been trying to find any and all information I can on it to replace some parts. I chose to join this site because I can across several forum topics about Allis-Chalmers questions. The head has seen its share of sun and the only bit of information I was able to acquire was the serial number from a data plate. The serial number is L-F42008J. This A-C head looks like a flex head based on the two outer snouts that are able to move up and down. The unit is in dire need of a new sickle bar. I want to go through Shoup's Parts, but alas they need the model number. Is there anyone here that could possibly help me figure this out? I appreciate any advice!

M2 Gleaner
16Ft Grain head L-F42008J

V/r

Eric F.

M2rookieGuy, welcome to the AC forum. Thank you for your valuable service to our great country.
Probably have a gleaner series 2 header?
-Factory Flex sickle?
-Belt driven Wobble box sickle drive? (Not pitman)
-Variable speed reel?
Decent header for 1970s era.
Sickle could be original or aftermarket? So best to measure sickle sections for width & height and cross reference to Shoup’s offered sections. Spend extra for section bolts/nuts over original rivets. Makes later bad section replacements a breeze. Unbolt header sickle where it mounts to wobble drive, then carefully slide entire sickle from header’s left side. Get a wooden rack wagon, or wooden trailer deck, or a solid 20’ 2x8 on the ground to support loose sickle. Then Rebuild your sickle by replacing its sections. A bad section will be dull to touch. Use your thumb & forefinger to lightly check if section teeth are sharp or dull. Sharp teeth WILL CUT you quick~ so be mindful. Mark bad ones. Use a sharp chisel or angle grinder to remove top of rivets if it still has rivets. Then punch/hammer out old rivets. If newer bolt/nuts then just unbolt. Buy some extra sections/bolts/nuts for on-hand field repairs.

Check sickle guards(heavy forged fingers that sickle slides inside of) for wear grooves mostly on bottom. Bottom surface where sections slide should be flat. Straighten any bent fingers using a 2-3’ pipe that slides over front of finger.

Edited by AC7060IL - 17 Apr 2024 at 9:17pm

The unit is in dire need of a new sickle bar.

Thanks Everyone for the warm welcome! I hope I can reciprocate as much knowledge as I receive from everyone. I checked the sharpness of the sickle teeth, and they are dull as they are rusty. Our little farm is 13 acres with 10 tillable. I registered our farm with the USDA and got the got me in touch with a local farmer who has been helping me out with soil samples and what advice he can offer. I showed and fired the M2 up and he smiled and said I'd be an expert Gleaner man after I fix her up. So we'll see!

V/r

Eric F.

Welcome to the forum, and thank you for your military service. If you were closer to North Dakota, I would come and have a look at your purchase, try to help you out. I wish you the best of luck on your farming venture. It's a great way of life, but can be grueling. I hope that your M2 turns out being a good purchase, some allis chalmers tractors in your fleet would be awesome. Upon what you've said so far, I guess my advice has already been said; set your cutter bar up for bolt on sections.
Darrel

Good luck, you made a good purchase, ran an M2 for 20 years, good machine for me, I had about 800 acres most years, also did a little custom work in the first couple years I had it.

The header is a "Series 2" floating cutter-bar head (FCB) with a wobble box sickle drive. You MUST slow down the variable-speed header drive on the combine (if it has one) to the slowest speed and disconnect the hydraulic hose to keep from overspeeding the wobble box which will DESTROY it. Get a combine owners manual.

DrAllis,

Thank you for your input! You just saved me a lot of hassle and potential damage to the head. So just to clarify I don't want to hook up the two hydraulic lines? What are they there for?

V/r

Eric

jiminnd,

After doing extensive research on a combine that was within financial and realistic goals, I decided on the M2 and by chance the one I purchased was 37 miles away. When I looked at it in early February, he said it hadn't run since November. It started in less than 60 seconds with ZERO ether. It has the 301 A-C turbo diesel. It sounds strong. The unit has no oil, or hydraulic leaks. For a 77 model it has some areas that need attention. I would like to get all the idiot lights fixed on the dashboard. That will come with time.

V/r

Eric

There is a hose on the left side that hooks to the variable speed under the cab step area. When you hook up a grain head you set that speed as slow as it goes. It's been so long since I ran an M I was thinking that hose then goes on the grain head for reel speed but I could be wrong you just disconnect it so you don't speed up the head.

Just one question?  Is it a hydro or gear drive?  Mine was a basic gear drive so did not have variable speed on the header drive.  If it is gear drive keep an eye on the bushing in the  sheave in the variable   speed for the ground drive, will wear and then take the big shaft down and have a vibration.

Should there, is there a lock out ring for the variable speed?

jiminnd,

The M2 is gear driven.

V/r

Eric

jiminnd,

Here are some pictures of the M2 for reference. The second to last picture shows the variable speed clutch sensor that's inop. Unfortunately, the clutch has also been bolted directly to the drive pulley. So the feeder and head is always spinning as soon as I crank the engine over. I'm not too worried about this though, as the owner claimed this unit had run 80 acres of corn for the past couple years like this. He seemed like a straight shooter. He didn't hide anything and was happy to take my calls weeks after I bought the unit. If I can get 2-3 seasons out of this M2 and be profitable, I will most likely part the machine out and upgrade to a newer unit. Hope the pictures help!


M2_cab.jpgM2_cab_switch.jpgM2_front_cab_1.jpgM2_cab_2.jpgM2_combine.jpgV_speed_clutch_.jpgVariable_speed_clutch_pulley_system.jpg


V/r

Eric