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Looking for D19 diesel engine parts

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sampsonrepair View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 12:58pm
Precisely.  If someone wants a trailer queen, then none of that matters.  I just feel a lot better now that we are moving away from the diesel all together.

Do you have any idea if my diesel flywheel can be used with a gas engine?  Crankshafts are the same, rear plates are the same, clutches are the same, front pulleys are the same.  Starter, ring gear, and flywheel are different part numbers.  I'm guessing the gas flywheel is perhaps lighter?  But I can't think of any harm in bolting up the diesel flywheel--unless there would be some weird external balance issue or something.  I wouldn't think so, given that the cranks are the same.

I have a lead on a running D262 out of a D19 I'm pursuing and another out of a C2 combine.  The engine out of the D19 definitely sounds like the less complex of the two options.  But the seller is keeping his flywheel and starter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:13pm
Flywheels interchange.  RING GEAR TOOTH COUNT IS DIFFERENT I THINK.

Edited by DrAllis - 11 Mar 2025 at 1:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 9:39am
I have a running gas engine coming for this tractor out of a D19.  I'll probably see it today.  We are hoping it doesn't need much in the way of repairs. Even if it does, I still think it's the best option in this case.  Question:  I'm assuming the "Mack" custom fire rings have no relevance to this engine.  The original AGCO fire rings were different part numbers between gas and diesel.  What are guys using for head gaskets in the gas versions?

I'm hoping there is no reason to pull the head anyway.  Mainly, I would like to return the "Mack" rings to their owner and need to know if there is any reason not to do so at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 9:46am
Gas head gasket and fire rings were much thinner than the diesel parts. Gas engines had ZERO head gasket/sleeve sinking issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 2:26pm
Is it even possible to weld the Sleeve holding collar in the block, around the Radii to reinforce this area? Or it could never be welded with enough precision or not warping it?

Might not be using the right terms here...but you get the idea. Make the weak point strong.

I have both a block and head I'm keeping for my Diesel. I have a different D262 in the tractor. Both head/block are original. I'm thinking I should have them inspected to know what I have.
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"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 4:17pm
My idea would be custom sleeves, either with wider flanges at the top (but there isn't an over-abundance of 'meat' up there to work with, if you know what I mean), or else make the sleeves to be a shrink / press fit at the top.  At the end of the day, you would be "dry sleeved" at the top and "wet sleeved" at the bottom.  With too much of a press fit, I worry about cracking the block between the counterbores, I don't know.  As the Dr. says, you still have the weak head to worry about.

At the end of the day, the diesel is cool, but we decided to go with the much more reliable gas version for this particular project.  I'm sure with enough $$$, determination, and a good machinist, anything is possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 5:13pm
An extra .020" or .030" lip (.040" to .060" on the sleeve lip O.D.) would have to make an improvement. A press fit of any kind will wind up splitting the block right down the middle. Seen it before in my tractor pulling blocks. Mack always insisted the fire rings on the head gasket were too soft. They'd start to hammer out and in short order, the sleeve would start moving and then sink. I can't argue his logic, but the ledge/lip is still waaaay too inadequate, especially when you compare it to other A-C engines that never have issues. And then, there's the cylinder head.........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2025 at 9:22am
I am measuring .206" between upper counterbores 1-2-3 and 4-5-6.  An extra .020 lip on the sleeve reduces that to .166".  I would have to wonder about cracking between counterbores.  Maybe it wouldn't be an issue.  Isn't there someone on this forum somewhere that has done this (wider flanges) without issue?

My opinion:  This block is too small and too light to pack a 262 turbo diesel into, period.  They should have left it alone as a bored block, or reworked it into a smaller wet-sleeved engine that had decent sleeve lips.  I look at this engine and I see a gasoline / propane block, not a diesel block.

I get it that there was a horsepower race going on.  It seems that more than one poor idea / overpowered tractor got rushed to market at this point in history, did they not?  It was most certainly not just an Allis issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar 2025 at 10:08am
I'm happy to know that the D19 Gases were good tractors. I thought all of them had issues and not just the Diesels.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TORE_BACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2025 at 7:25am
Originally posted by sampsonrepair sampsonrepair wrote:

I have a source for an old stock Victor head gasket, with or without the fire rings, my choice. (Olson Gasket) Are these good? I have some reason to believe Victor was the OEM supplier, does anyone know if this is true?

Head cracks aren't leaking. It looks as if the owner wants to roll the dice on a minimal repair. Will probably look into getting some "Mack" fire rings made and going with an OEM style gasket and lots of sealer and ARP studs.





My D19 diesel died yesterday. It overheated and is leaking coolant into the intake. My plan is to rebuild it over the next few years. You said above that you have a lead on a nos head gasket and fire rings. Did you ever get them, and if so now that your customer is going gas can I purchase them from you? Or can I get the contact information.

Thank you,
Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2025 at 12:46pm
I am sorry about your tractor.  If you like it enough to rebuild it, are thorough, and do much of the work yourself, I am sure it can be restored to running condition.

The "OEM style" gasket I found appears to be a reproduction gasket that one of the Allis specialty vendors is obtaining from an unidentified source, possibly even having custom-manufactured for them.  They are currently experiencing major quality control issues.  I sent the gasket I bought back to them.  They have acknowledged the QC issues, refunded my money, and are trying to work with their vendor to obtain better gaskets. 

Olson Gasket (360-871-1207) has OEM style Victor gaskets in stock, with or without fire rings, your choice.  I haven't seen one of their gaskets, but I think they are essentially NOS AGCO gaskets.  This would be where I would go for an OEM style D262 head gasket, either with their fire rings or with custom-built fire rings from one of the companies catering to the high - performance crowd.

I have the wire diameter of the fire rings "Mack" used to supply written down somewhere . . . just can't lay eyes on it right now.  What alloy he was using, I have no idea.  They are nothing fancy--just a piece of wire brazed into a circle.

According to Pfouts, some of his customers are using a soft annealed copper gasket he supplies on their working D19 diesels with great success.  I guess I would want to talk to someone using a copper gasket in real life, it surely does sound interesting.

I do have a few other parts if you are interested, no pressure:

New Piston ring set
New Full gasket set
New ARP head stud set
USED pistons that look practically NEW (flat-top, no valve recess)
USED connecting rods
USED camshaft (may need cam gear), lifters, pushrods, rocker shaft
Recently REBUILT injection pump (low hours on rebuild) and (5) reconditioned injectors (never been installed).

PM me for more information if interested in any of it.  I will be returning the NEW parts to Pfouts in the near future if no one wants them soon. 

SAMPSON REPAIR

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote only AC orange Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2025 at 8:02am
Spallinger combine salvage in Bluffton Oh. might have a combine engine. I got 0ne from them couple years ago, good running engine, carries good oil pressure!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 4:49pm
I am finally back.  We repowered with a running G262 gas engine from a D19.  We did end up going through the motor, it had extensive internal rust and sludge buildup.  I'm about ready to start it up except . . .

Today I filled the tractor with coolant and there is coolant running out of the right rear cylinder head  bolt hole, right between the washer and the cylinder head!  My first thought, did I miss a "wet" head bolt?  Pulled the bolt out, no, the block threads are blind.  But there is a coolant passage in the head itself that communicates with the head bolt hole!  It's big, not just a crack.  I can pour water into the head bolt hole and it disappears as fast as I pour it in!  I can feed a cable tie down the head bolt hole and into this coolant passage!   It is like it belongs there!

Does anyone know about this passage and how to stop the coolant from leaking out?  Do I need a copper washer?  Sealant on the existing steel washer?  Is there an internal core plug that is missing or displaced?  Can it be replaced if that is the case?  Is the head junk?

There is a cup-style frost plug on the rear of the head, I considered removing this to see if I can learn anything that way.

OEM service manual describes no special procedures, sealants, or washers for any of the head bolts.  AGCO parts books shed no light on the issue.  Help!

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 hours 28 minutes ago at 6:24pm
Bad luck seems to loom over this tractor. I wonder if someone in the past inserted too long of a head bolt in that hole punching open the thread pocket ??  Nothing special should need to normally be done.  Sounds to me like a clean threaded hole and a ton of good RTV on the threaded portion of the head bolt and some on the shank and hope for the best. A different block .........?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 hours 39 minutes ago at 9:13am
Thanks, Dr.  Allis.

I drained the coolant a little farther this morning and got out my borescope for a better look and did some measuring.

There is clearly a coolant passage in the cylinder head surrounding this bolt.  The threaded hole in the block is blind.  The hole in the head is roughly 1/2" in diameter, and then about 1 inch above the block deck it opens into a cavern that completely surrounds the bolt.  Then it narrows back down to a 1/2" diameter hole which extends down to the cylinder head / cylinder block interface.  Coolant flows unhindered from the left side of the head into this open cavern.

I have certainly worked on engines with "wet" head bolts / studs where the threaded portion extends into the water jacket in the block.  But I have never heard of a "wet" head bolt SHANK in a cylinder head!  It sure LOOKS as if it was cast this way, but to me that makes little sense.  I don't know that the head was pressure tested.  It's not listed on the machine shop invoice.

Does Allis have special washers on their head bolts?  The washers I removed were so beat up that I replaced with new hardened washers . . . perhaps the washers are supposed to be soft (to seal) and this was a mistake?

I suppose I would be inclined to try to get this bolt to seal before I would go looking for a head.  I also think I'm going to try to get this baby to fire up before I go any farther, just to be sure there are no other gremlins lurking in it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 24 minutes ago at 1:28pm
UPDATE:  It runs.  It runs well.Big smile  180 degrees on the temp gauge, 40PSI hot @ 2000 RPM on the oil gauge, nice and smooth.
I sealed the leaking head bolt with a copper washer on either side of the existing steel washer.  I did not get full torque on it, but got it close enough to test it.  I do NOT consider this a permanent fix!

I'm going to sit on deciding what my next move is over the weekend.  I would sure love to have another gas 262 head to look at right now, and would also sure like to know if there is anything special about the 
70912007 cylinder head capscrew washers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 45 minutes ago at 3:07pm
Sounds like a bad casting... You might be able to repair it somehow, but whatever is done, has to stand up to the heat, vibration and torque.  Not sure such a cure exists...  I'd look for another head, might be cheaper in the long run...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 54 minutes ago at 3:58pm
My mistake. I thought this was a cylinder block thing. None of the head bolts ever used a copper washer. I'd be doping the head bolt shank with RTV and use your copper washer I guess.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 48 minutes ago at 4:04pm
No worries.  At least I'm not alone in having never heard of a "wet" head bolt shank!

I keep hoping someone will chime in here and say, "Yeah, all the G262 heads were that way!  Use the factory head bolt washers and you will be fine!"

I'll sit on it over the weekend.  Right now I'm leaning toward copper washer, sealant, and a visual follow-up with the customer in a year with oil analysis to be sure the coolant is staying out of the oil.  At least heads for the G262 appear plentiful and inexpensive.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 0 hours 60 minutes ago at 4:52pm
Sounds like the sand core shifted during the casting process Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sampsonrepair Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 43 minutes ago at 5:09pm
That would be my honest assessment based upon what I am observing.  This is NOT a crack; it is a passage or cavern!  It was either cast this way, or a massive chunk broke out inside!

The question is, if it survived for this many years, can it be carefully sealed up and run indefinitely?  Or is this the root cause of the insane amount of sludge I cleaned out of this engine:  minute quantities of coolant migrating to where they did not belong over a period of decades?  Is this why the (donor) tractor was parked?  Because it was parked . . . very little wear on the bearings and other internal parts, but the oil cap was rusted in place!  It ran, but the oil hadn't been changed in years!  It rusted crazily under the valve cover, and the bearings had rust imbedded in them.
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