How to identify a tractor:

Shift rod says 190-200 to me. Serial # stamped on flywheel hsg at rear on engine

Pictures would be a huge help, also could be a 210,220. The stamp on the left side bell housing would be best to have. Even with thick paint it still should be visible I would think. With that info you will know model and year produced.

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

These are brand new steer axle tires included with the tractor:

I'll have to ask on the loader. I'm told it's always been on there. The cylinder on the left side looks like a replacement and doesn't match the other side exactly. It also has a pin or bolt in the clevis end through the loader arm rather than the original pin.

Found this if transfers

Allis Chalmers 190 XT Tractor And Loader BigIron Auctions

It's not an Allis loader. The 500 has the bucket cylinders under the loader arms.

1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A

Take a piece of paper and lay it over the stamped numbers. Lay a sharpened pencil at an angle and rub over the numbers and letters. Has worked for me when they are difficult to read. Looks like maybe 190 26539XT?

Edited by AC720Man - 23 Jul 2022 at 8:25pm

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

The 190XT are great tractors when they are not abused shifting between gears. Always come to a full stop to shift other than using the power director, which is either LO or HI range for each gear. It can be shifted on the fly. When abused they can become a gear jumper meaning it will pop out of gear when going down a hill especially with a load behind you.

Edited by AC720Man - 23 Jul 2022 at 9:54pm

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Thank you. I'm half tempted to purchase this one and verify the injection pump is bad by reinstalling it and going from there. Kinda hate taking the widow at her word but she did operate the tractor a lot I'm told. She was not able to relay any symptoms however so all I know is the injection pump is in a box and she was told it needed rebuilt? My buddy at the pump shop may, or may not charge me to run it on the bench, but I don't like to abuse relationships so thinking I'll reassemble the tractor and evaluate the operation. I'm not a farmer and never have been so quite "green" in what these were built for; hence the questions.

I'd just knock it down and go thru it. But, I can do it myself, so this would be no big deal. Chances are very good it needs a governor weight retainer anyway.

While have all that down, pull valve cover. After get Injector pump back on and In Time run the valves with the nozzles out(Easier to turn over as well verify on No 1 Compression for Timing) and then return the cover then install the nozzles.

Thank you. The pump is wrapped in a towel inside a plastic bag and the pump mounting face on the timing cover is plugged with a shop towel and "duct tape". I didn't unwrap anything, nor uncover, so really didn't know how the drive worked. Given the way the injection lines are routed around circular I assume it's a Roosa-Master DB series pump.

Talked to the widow yesterday and she will sell the tractor easy enough "as is". Trouble is neither she, nor I have a solid value in mind so I'll solicit opinions. Nothing has been done so far. It will come with new front Firestone four rib tires, and a pair of very good condition rear tires with tubes. It does need one rim replaced on the left rear as they have fluid in them and the valve stem area is leaking from corrosion. She is not certain the injection pump is bad, but her husband pulled it off to send in falling ill shortly afterward and never was able to go further. The engine has about 1400 hours or so since a rebuild by a now defunct machine shop. She does have receipts and it was a good rebuild from them. The clutch assembly was also replaced then. The tractor was repainted at that time and usually kept under a loafing shed, but open to the sun.

You now know about what I do so what does anyone think would be fair to pay for this thing? Not looking for a resale unit here at all, but I do want to be fair with her, and of course me.

Thanks,

That wheel can be repaired, no need to be replaced. As far as price your taking a gamble on a non running tractor that you have no way of verifying before you purchase it. Can’t verify the transmission or the engine actually. Myself, a $1,500-$2k offer would be fair. If the pump is the issue, plan on spending $1,000 rebuilding it and the injectors. So your up $3k if nothing else is needed. Depends on how bad you want it and if you don’t mind spending some more money on it if that not all that is wrong with it. They are really good tractors when all is well.

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

A late series 3 190XT rear end isn't the same as a 200 rear end. While the transmission and differential are extremely similar, the ring and pinion is different/stronger (9 x 35 teeth versus 10 x 39 teeth) and both bull gears and bull pinions are wider, again for more strength and durability.

Edited by DrAllis - 29 Jul 2022 at 6:51pm

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Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: How to identify a tractor: Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 9:11am
	We have an AC tractor hauled in to get going again. The injection pump was in a box being told it's needing rebuilt and the original owner/mechanic deceased. The tractor sheet metal is very straight but repainted with all badging and tags removed. The paint is flatter than day old beer too. It looks like the size of a 190, or 200 to me and I've not found any stampings to go from. One characteristic is it does have a rod that runs topside of the floor panel on the transmission and I assume this is the gear selector apparatus. It also has that gauge quadrant style I've seen on a lot of that vintage AC tractors. The engine is an AC six cylinder and that's really all I know about it. Is this enough to identify or should I get photos to post? I can do that easy enough but I may be interested in the tractor for a relative if it runs as well as we were told before the pump went bad? It has really nice heavy loader that is not bent or twisted up at all. Even the bucket floor and cutting edge are straight.

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SteveM C/IL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8623	Post Options Post Reply Quote SteveM C/IL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 9:26am
	Shift rod says 190-200 to me. Serial # stamped on flywheel hsg at rear on engine

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 9:51am
	The paint is so thick on this thing we could not see any stampings at all, nor holes for an original riveted tag. Is it possible a replacement block, or engine and not stamped? I agree on the 190 to 200 series easy enough as it has that square grille also.

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 10:11am
	Pictures would be a huge help, also could be a 210,220. The stamp on the left side bell housing would be best to have. Even with thick paint it still should be visible I would think. With that info you will know model and year produced.
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 1:02pm
	Talked to the owner/widow and she assures me the engine ran very well but was told the injection pump needed rebuilt. It was sold new at this dealer. Hasn't been into the dealer in several years however. They raised horses and this was their larger chore tractor. I may purchase it as the owner of the implement dealer tells me it is a fair price for a non running tractor. I found the stamping mentioned but it really is so filled with paint it is almost illegible; but here are some photos: And the stamping which I can only discern "190" and a few numbers but nothing complete:

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 1:05pm
	These are brand new steer axle tires included with the tractor:

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 2:51pm
	Looks like possibly a series III 190 going by the Tach if it’s original. Looks to be in good shape. 500 loader?
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 3:06pm
	I'll have to ask on the loader. I'm told it's always been on there. The cylinder on the left side looks like a replacement and doesn't match the other side exactly. It also has a pin or bolt in the clevis end through the loader arm rather than the original pin.

DMiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33958	Post Options Post Reply Quote DMiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 3:11pm
	Numbers will be stamped top to bottom along edge of Bellhousing at Right Frame to Engine. Is where my 180 is marked. Those stamped marks are the numbers buried in paint. 190 sn 25339(Closest I can Tell) Loader looks to be a Koyker. Edited by DMiller - 23 Jul 2022 at 3:15pm

DMiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33958	Post Options Post Reply Quote DMiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 3:16pm
	Found this if transfers

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21888	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 4:05pm
	It's one of those loaders that breaks the tractor in half.

Joe(TX) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Weatherford. TX Points: 1682	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe(TX) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 6:15pm
	It's not an Allis loader. The 500 has the bucket cylinders under the loader arms.
	1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 8:18pm
	Yeah my mistake on the loader, shouldn’t have guessed by looking at it on my phone earlier today. See it now that I zoomed in on my tablet.
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 8:24pm
	Take a piece of paper and lay it over the stamped numbers. Lay a sharpened pencil at an angle and rub over the numbers and letters. Has worked for me when they are difficult to read. Looks like maybe 190 26539XT? Edited by AC720Man - 23 Jul 2022 at 8:25pm
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 8:30pm
	I will be back in on Monday and do that with the numbers. Were these a good tractor overall? I have a cousin and they raise feeder cattle and he really could use it in the operation as they need another loader tractor.

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 9:49pm
	The 190XT are great tractors when they are not abused shifting between gears. Always come to a full stop to shift other than using the power director, which is either LO or HI range for each gear. It can be shifted on the fly. When abused they can become a gear jumper meaning it will pop out of gear when going down a hill especially with a load behind you. Edited by AC720Man - 23 Jul 2022 at 9:54pm
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Lars(wi) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Permian Basin Points: 8066	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lars(wi) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 10:11pm
	26839XT
	I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 Jul 2022 at 10:21pm
	Thank you. I'm half tempted to purchase this one and verify the injection pump is bad by reinstalling it and going from there. Kinda hate taking the widow at her word but she did operate the tractor a lot I'm told. She was not able to relay any symptoms however so all I know is the injection pump is in a box and she was told it needed rebuilt? My buddy at the pump shop may, or may not charge me to run it on the bench, but I don't like to abuse relationships so thinking I'll reassemble the tractor and evaluate the operation. I'm not a farmer and never have been so quite "green" in what these were built for; hence the questions.

Jim.ME Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 19 Nov 2016 Location: Maine Points: 962	Post Options Post Reply Quote Jim.ME Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 6:15am
	The info you have says the pump needs repair. The pump is off and, in a box. You have access to someone who can bench test it, but he might charge to test it. I would have it bench tested, even if I had to pay, rather than reinstall it to check it out. There is a 50/50 chance, at best, that you will be pulling it back off to have it repaired, if you go that route. If you have the pump checked (and repaired if needed) so you know it is good to go, you have eliminated it as a cause, if the engine doesn't run right after it is installed.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21888	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 6:19am
	I'd just knock it down and go thru it. But, I can do it myself, so this would be no big deal. Chances are very good it needs a governor weight retainer anyway.

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 6:47am
	You guys have very good points which I think should be followed. The purchase is basically made so I'll take her a check tomorrow morning and get the tractor back to my shop inside. I'll then pull the injectors and send them in also so everything can be tested/calibrated together. This way I'll have a good baseline. I was assured the tractor ran/operated well and did not burn oil, but really nothing else such as hard starting symptoms etc. I did pull the dipstick yesterday and nothing but black oil on the "full" mark. I see a lot of older tractors almost daily hauling for these folks and they were an AC dealer starting in 1949 and still try to support the line best they can. I would have purchased the 200 they traded for last year with a cab but the sheet metal was beat up a little and it had a bit of coolant in the oil so didn't go with it.

DMiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33958	Post Options Post Reply Quote DMiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 7:24am
	While have all that down, pull valve cover. After get Injector pump back on and In Time run the valves with the nozzles out(Easier to turn over as well verify on No 1 Compression for Timing) and then return the cover then install the nozzles.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21888	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 7:47am
	Injection pump drive shaft is a flat tang drive. On one side of the flat tang is a "dot". Align the dot on the shaft with the dot inside the pump and you are on #1.

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 7:59am
	Thank you. The pump is wrapped in a towel inside a plastic bag and the pump mounting face on the timing cover is plugged with a shop towel and "duct tape". I didn't unwrap anything, nor uncover, so really didn't know how the drive worked. Given the way the injection lines are routed around circular I assume it's a Roosa-Master DB series pump.

DMiller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33958	Post Options Post Reply Quote DMiller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 Jul 2022 at 8:14am
	Should be Stanadyne Style, IE a Roosa Master.

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 8:14am
	Talked to the widow yesterday and she will sell the tractor easy enough "as is". Trouble is neither she, nor I have a solid value in mind so I'll solicit opinions. Nothing has been done so far. It will come with new front Firestone four rib tires, and a pair of very good condition rear tires with tubes. It does need one rim replaced on the left rear as they have fluid in them and the valve stem area is leaking from corrosion. She is not certain the injection pump is bad, but her husband pulled it off to send in falling ill shortly afterward and never was able to go further. The engine has about 1400 hours or so since a rebuild by a now defunct machine shop. She does have receipts and it was a good rebuild from them. The clutch assembly was also replaced then. The tractor was repainted at that time and usually kept under a loafing shed, but open to the sun. You now know about what I do so what does anyone think would be fair to pay for this thing? Not looking for a resale unit here at all, but I do want to be fair with her, and of course me. Thanks,

Codger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2458	Post Options Post Reply Quote Codger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 12:09pm
	Photos from this morning:

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 4:25pm
	That wheel can be repaired, no need to be replaced. As far as price your taking a gamble on a non running tractor that you have no way of verifying before you purchase it. Can’t verify the transmission or the engine actually. Myself, a $1,500-$2k offer would be fair. If the pump is the issue, plan on spending $1,000 rebuilding it and the injectors. So your up $3k if nothing else is needed. Depends on how bad you want it and if you don’t mind spending some more money on it if that not all that is wrong with it. They are really good tractors when all is well.
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

AC720Man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5232	Post Options Post Reply Quote AC720Man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 4:30pm
	Did you ever figure out what the serial number is? I think it may be a series III. If so, they are worth more. Has the heavy rear end like the 200. Just guessing, if that’s the factory Tach then it very well could be a series III.
	1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21888	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 5:12pm
	A late series 3 190XT rear end isn't the same as a 200 rear end. While the transmission and differential are extremely similar, the ring and pinion is different/stronger (9 x 35 teeth versus 10 x 39 teeth) and both bull gears and bull pinions are wider, again for more strength and durability. Edited by DrAllis - 29 Jul 2022 at 6:51pm