Hot engine won't start?

Bad starter could be part of problem, but in this case, not from the exhaust. Open air mounting and this one has a pair of cherry bomb glass packs on duel exhaust pipes. Somebody had a sense of humor. 

I added turnouts so the hot exhaust didn't hit rear tires directly.

Quick update. Got the #2 battery cables installed, then put battery charger on and left it overnight. Battery needed it. Got a chance to get it all back to normal and hit starter. Volt meter went from 12 volts to 10 (had been dropping below 6 volts), engine turned over way faster than had been before and once she started, volt meter quickly climbed up to over 14.......so alternator was trying to charge. New alternator has arrived, currently waiting on mounting brackets to install it.

Also, as mentioned before, part of fuel line was lacking insulation, so that has been replaced. For first time I also noticed that the 2 or 3 inch area where the insulation was missing passed within about 2 inches or so of exhaust manifold, which is likely why it was cooked off. New high temp insulation on it now.

Old alternator is unable to keep up with any type of load, so belief is under normal operation was getting a slow battery drain. With any lights on, drain was killing the battery.  Hoping new alternator fixes that. Will see.

As noted, this is a 318 Chrysler engine, but has none of the normal charging system.....external voltage regulator, etc........and somebody in the past rigged up an AC Delco GM style alternator with internal regulator. Rigged is an understatement. They found a way to mount wrong fit alternator to engine......big stack of washers used to get belts to align......then made a tensioning bracket......and welded it to the frame.......so belt tension varies if engine and frame do not move together.

Had this GM alternator tested to see if it was working and it was only putting out something like 30 amps. Have seen the original stickers for some Dodge D600 farm trucks from early 70's era.....same engine....and even those had 43 amp alternators.

If you don't get all the day's hay picked up before dark, and turn on the lights, the drain on battery goes way up.

Doing some research on this, they also say it is very hard on the alternator if battery ever gets really low and engine is then jump started such that alternator then has to charge a nearly dead battery. That has happened with this.

Another reason for getting the bigger 90 amp alternator installed. Hopefully it will keep up with the load and keep battery topped up all the time. Once topped up, extra capacity of bigger alternator won't matter. It only charges as needed. Seems like only way to go.

Quick update......with new replacement alternator, pulled the old one and was ready to install new........instantly ran into trouble. The lower, main support OEM alternator bracket is held in place by either two or three bolts......depending on the age and style of water pump......but that braket and the bracket to tension it is held one by only one bolt. One of 7 that holds the water pump in place. The key one.......the one that has to be used.......was found to have been snapped off inside the water pump housing. That bolt passes thru bracket, bracket, water pump, timing chain cover, then screws into the block.....and the end of it is open to coolant. So to install, a good thread sealant has to be used. No telling now many youtube videos there are documenting removal of that snapped off bolt. Now my turn to figure it out. Has been soaking in penetrating oil for days. Trying hard not to snap it off again as that would require removal of timing chain cover.  Exciting times.

Next question.........I now have 3 or 4 of these long bolts out, and hopefully 4th and final is coming out with no drama. I normally would plan to chase the threads in engine block with an oiled tap before putting bolts back. Problem being my 3/8" tap appears to be damaged (won't go into a matching nut without binding) and not long enough to reach thru the timing chain cover to get to the threads in the block anyway. 

Do they make a longer than standard tap with 4 inch or so shank? If so, what is now a good brand to buy? What I have now are Blue Point, which as I understand it was an economy line of tools sold by Snap On. I may be able to buy Irwin or Hanson locally. Anything else to consider? 

Not much progress on the bolt, except new plan to attack it. Have now added an induction heater to stable to tools. Have had more than one guy who turns wrenches for a living tell me that is what they use to free stuck bolts. For lack of a better way to explain it, seems to work like a microwave oven or some such........a coil is placed over end of the bolt and when you hit the on switch, energy waves are directed towards center of the coil (like a loose coil spring), with bolt positioned in the center. Some show it heating to read hot in a matter of seconds. No open flame as a torch or welder. Anyway, going to heat it up, let it cool and bang on it. Do that a couple times and hopefully bolt gives it up. 

Interesting that I've now watched dozens of youtube videos of guys working on front end of these old 318 motors and that very same bolt is problem for 99% of them. Generally it gets broken (as mine was), then drama follows as guys figure out ways to get it out. 

It may be a major design flaw. In normal use, carbon steel bolt passes thru steel alternator mounting bracket 1, then steel alternator mounting bracket 2, then aluminum water pump housing, then aluminum timing chain cover, then into thread in cast iron block (held in place by some nasty sealant), where tip of bolt is then exposed to some form of coolant cocktail. If for some reason, stray current finds it's way from alternator frame or electrical system you could have no telling what in terms of corrosion from dissimilar metals and all the rest. Bolt just gets chemically welded into place. Don't know if there is a non-metalic bolt tough enough for that duty, but would be worth looking into.

some type of slide hammer attached to the shaft between the two u joints... and then slam with the hammer to shock the shaft out ?

Another view. Can see the bolt heads holding pulley on. This shaft comes off, may be home free.