![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
Hot engine won't start? |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <12 |
Author | |
modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8491 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Also, at end of day, parked it, then turned the key off. On a whim, tried to start and she groaned a bit, but did start and run........even when hot. Extra juice in the battery may have been a factor.
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8491 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quick update. Pulled the battery and had it tested and they said still good. Was low on charge, but voltage output tested OK. Battery cables were #4 and negative was grounded to the engine block. Cables corroded, so have upgraded to new #2 cables. Will install those on the existing battery. If memory serves, 725 cold cranking amps. They sell one with more CCA's that sits in same foot print. As is, the battery box is full. BTW, forgot but there is a 2nd battery box. So may have been setup to run a 2nd battery in parallel for running lights at night. Existing alternator......one in the video......despite being large in physical size is only putting out 30 amps or so. Since it has been causing trouble anyway, new 90 amp single wire (self regulated) alternator on order. Local NAPA can make me new charging wire.........thinking #6 AWG wire to handle the loads. Will make those changes, then see what happens.
|
|
![]() |
|
Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1474 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That sounds like good changes. Bigger battery cables should help. 30 amp alternator is not a whole bunch but a lot of alternators back in the day were in that range. Chev in the 70's were 37 amps. I plowed snow with a 77 GMC with 37 amps. We would stop in the middle of the night when the lights got so dim you could not see. Park truck and let it run and go for a coffee. Then work again!!! Lol.
![]() |
|
![]() |
|
WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4961 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Probably not the same problem, but years ago (80's), I had a Chevy motorhome that never wanted to start when it was warm. The starter was very close to the exhaust. With the setback style of the engine, engine compartment heat was always a problem. I tried various attempts at heat shielding and only ever managed to make the problem worse.
A local electrical shop rebuilt the starter, and I had no more problems.
|
|
![]() |
|
modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8491 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Bad starter could be part of problem, but in this case, not from the exhaust. Open air mounting and this one has a pair of cherry bomb glass packs on duel exhaust pipes. Somebody had a sense of humor. I added turnouts so the hot exhaust didn't hit rear tires directly.
|
|
![]() |
|
TedN ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 30 Apr 2025 Location: Central WA Points: 53 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Fix the (now) known alternator issue, replace the cables, and see if that solves the problem. Looks like it uses an electric fan, that will speed up a little too. I think if I were working on it I would get some convoluted tubing and zip ties and get some of the wiring cleaned up a little while doing it. A few extra minutes gains quite a bit of piece of mind.
Its neat to see something like that out being used, and it works for what you are doing. Ted Edited by TedN - 27 Jun 2025 at 10:38am |
|
190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
|
|
![]() |
|
modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8491 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quick update. Got the #2 battery cables installed, then put battery charger on and left it overnight. Battery needed it. Got a chance to get it all back to normal and hit starter. Volt meter went from 12 volts to 10 (had been dropping below 6 volts), engine turned over way faster than had been before and once she started, volt meter quickly climbed up to over 14.......so alternator was trying to charge. New alternator has arrived, currently waiting on mounting brackets to install it. Also, as mentioned before, part of fuel line was lacking insulation, so that has been replaced. For first time I also noticed that the 2 or 3 inch area where the insulation was missing passed within about 2 inches or so of exhaust manifold, which is likely why it was cooked off. New high temp insulation on it now. Old alternator is unable to keep up with any type of load, so belief is under normal operation was getting a slow battery drain. With any lights on, drain was killing the battery. Hoping new alternator fixes that. Will see. |
|
![]() |
|
Ed (Ont) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1474 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sounds good. Voltage should be about 13.6 to 14.5 with engine running so the alternator seems to be good. Or does it drop when you turn some accessories on?
|
|
![]() |
|
modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8491 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As noted, this is a 318 Chrysler engine, but has none of the normal charging system.....external voltage regulator, etc........and somebody in the past rigged up an AC Delco GM style alternator with internal regulator. Rigged is an understatement. They found a way to mount wrong fit alternator to engine......big stack of washers used to get belts to align......then made a tensioning bracket......and welded it to the frame.......so belt tension varies if engine and frame do not move together. Had this GM alternator tested to see if it was working and it was only putting out something like 30 amps. Have seen the original stickers for some Dodge D600 farm trucks from early 70's era.....same engine....and even those had 43 amp alternators. If you don't get all the day's hay picked up before dark, and turn on the lights, the drain on battery goes way up. Doing some research on this, they also say it is very hard on the alternator if battery ever gets really low and engine is then jump started such that alternator then has to charge a nearly dead battery. That has happened with this. Another reason for getting the bigger 90 amp alternator installed. Hopefully it will keep up with the load and keep battery topped up all the time. Once topped up, extra capacity of bigger alternator won't matter. It only charges as needed. Seems like only way to go.
|
|
![]() |
|
SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8562 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
366 & 427 truck engines were known for no start hot and the cure was an extra solenoid on the fender or firewall but your starter is not encased in a heat zone so may not be a helpful suggestion. I'm pretty sure your engine doesn't get "tight" when hot.
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
Page <12 |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |