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FREEDGUY 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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 Topic: Honda Mower Blade Observation
Posted: 02 May 2020 at 6:05pm |
I run(ran) an older Honda 215 self-propelled bagger mower with the plastic deck and side pull rope start. 1 year ago I bought a new Honda Twin Cut blade as the blade that was on it was shot. I had never seen a blade set-up like that in my life, so didn't know what to expect until tonight  . I tagged a root that apparently grew out of the ground earlier this spring  . Long sad story short, those blades are ALOT tougher than the crankshaft  . Keep an eye out guys LOL!!
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 6:29pm |
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suppose to be an aluminum KEY in the end of the crank to attach the blade holder... That should sheer and protect the crank ???
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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FREEDGUY
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Location: South West Mich
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 6:41pm |
That was my thought also (key/key way). Mower still runs, shakes like H^#L though
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 02 May 2020 at 11:45pm |
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Had the same thing happen about 10 years ago, had a Craftsman walk behind w/Tecumsa(sp) engine, trimming under a tree and snagged a root killed engine dead, restarted and shook like the dickens.
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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JoeM(GA)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Cumming,GA
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Posted: 03 May 2020 at 6:51am |
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High RPM’s, long crankshaft nose, no support, = bent crankshaft, we saw them by the hundreds when I was at a suburban Deere dealer, it’s not just Honda, it was all colors! We had a jig that you could put the crank in and sometimes straighten them back out, but as cranks got softer and labor rose, it was cheaper to just put another engine on it, or junk it.
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
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AllisFreak MN
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Joined: 07 Dec 2009
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Posted: 03 May 2020 at 7:33am |
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Had the same thing happen to a MTD with a Briggs & Scrapiron. Shook so bad you couldn't hold on to it. Never did shear the key.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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HudCo
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Posted: 03 May 2020 at 9:23pm |
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dont matter what brand of engine or blade configuration those cranks will bend easy we get a few dozen of them here every year they mostly end up gettting scraped because theey dont want to fix them and we will not sell or use used parts on any ones equipment
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 04 May 2020 at 5:37pm |
If I continue to run this at reduced RPM'S until I can locate a replacement, what's the worst that can happen? I assume a bottom end seal will "elongate" and dump the oil ?? I am "on-the-hunt" for a replacement though  . |
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DiyDave
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Posted: 04 May 2020 at 5:51pm |
Take a look at the blade, too. Take it off, lay it on something flat, and see if its bent. Then put it on a balancer, and see if it is balanced. You gotta take it off, to fix the crank, or key, anyway...
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Edited by DiyDave - 04 May 2020 at 5:51pm
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 04 May 2020 at 5:58pm |
It's NOT the blade, this mower has blade disconnect and it shakes LESS with the blade engaged LOL !!
Sadly , this mower owes me nothing and is becoming quite hard to start any more  . I will miss the plastic mower deck
Edited by FREEDGUY - 04 May 2020 at 6:04pm
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HudCo
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Posted: 04 May 2020 at 8:37pm |
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the mower blade on most of the mower engines is the counter weight for the light weight alumium flywheels so ithe blade adapter is partly sheared or the flywheel key or both it will make it hard to start and or will try to rip the pull rope out of your hand
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 12 May 2020 at 4:56pm |
Some what of an update . Still using the Honda (my palms are still tingling after shutting the mower off 35 minutes ago) but have purchased a used/barely used Toro. My concern is that the engine is either OFF or WIDE OPEN  . There's NO throttle lever to feather the engine which seems very strange to me, seems like cold-starts and WOT don't go hand-in-hand  . Is there cause for concern ? Thanks
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 12 May 2020 at 6:18pm |
A lot of engines are made that way... CHEAP..... some have a 2 spring choke ? system however you can bend a tab 'somewhere' to LIMIT the top end RPM. Which tab and which way depends on make/model of engine. What gets me is having to turn over a Honda mower to drain the engine !!! Then agin some JD riders don't have drain plugs in teh hydro unit either !
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 12 May 2020 at 6:38pm |
Jay, I assume you mean roll the mower 90 * ?? I've never had any issue changing the Hondas oil that way but it sure seems like I saw a drain plug under the block when I installed the new ( ) blade 2 seasons ago but never pursued it. It was a PITA to hold the deck up to change the blade by myself, let alone jack with a seized-in plug LOL!! Thanks for the reply
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Dave H
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 8:49am |
used/barely used Toro. My concern is that the engine is either OFF or WIDE OPEN  .
There's NO throttle lever to feather the engine which seems very
strange to me, seems like cold-starts and WOT don't go hand-in-hand  . Is there cause for concern ? Thanks
That is the way most of them are stamped out now. Let her rip tader chip. 
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DiyDave
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 5:38pm |
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 6:26pm |
Well, aren't you "THE MAN"  !!
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 7:24pm |
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The newer push mowers don't have a throttle, choke or primer bulb. Just pull the cord and go. May snapper has been working great. They also no longer have a drain plug to change the oil. If your going to do a oil change you gota tip it upside down and drain the oil out the filler tube. My las one lasted 15 years was still running great when it rusted through the deck. Never changed oil or spark plug. Put a new blade on once sharpened once a summer and cleaned and sharpened when put away for winter.
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HudCo
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 8:39pm |
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briggs quit putting drain plugs in push mower size engines 10 or more years ago . i do not remember how many millions that our briggs representive told us back then, that they saved in the cost of the drain plug and the extra machining but it was a big yearly savings
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DiyDave
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 9:10pm |
For hard to get at and those engines without plugs, I use a vacuum extractor, kinda looks like a 2 gallon lawn sprayer, but it sucks the oil out, when you pump the handle...
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 13 May 2020 at 9:30pm |
Well it really 'sucked' when neighbour was told by JD dealership his rider wasn't worth fixin, something he'd paid close to 4500 Canucks. I can see 'trimming' costs on a $200 mower but.....come on... same as NO Zerks in car U-joints I suppose.. No money in making something last....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Ray54
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Posted: 14 May 2020 at 11:33am |
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Dang you all had HIGH CLASS mowers. First power mower here in the late 60's a Sears you had to turn it over and drain from the filler.
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FREEDGUY
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Posted: 14 May 2020 at 5:03pm |
 Ray54 wrote:
Dang you all had HIGH CLASS mowers. First power mower here in the late 60's a Sears you had to turn it over and drain from the filler.
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LOL !!! That's EXACTLY how the "newish" Honda mowers are drained !!!!
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