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Help finding pulling engine parts 226/WD45

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Zachrabbit15 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Aug 2024 at 12:34pm
Hello, looking for help sourcing engine parts for a pulling motor im working on. Allis 226 of a WD45 I have. Classes start at 3000lbs, open hp and 5 mph speed limit. Other than that fairly open rules, they do allow turbos but I want to build a N/A motor.

Parts I have, Murphys rockers 1.85-1 ratio, 262 diesel rods, D19 carb, head that's been ported/polished and larger Chevy valves and springs installed, intake/exhaust that has been port matched and extrude honed. Several stock blocks/heads/cranks I picked up from a local. 

Plan is a 4.5" bore, 5.5" stroke, compression in the range of 12-1 running E85. 

What Im looking for is a set or two of 4.5" sleeves and pistons or info to have a set made, who to send a crank to to have offset ground and who to go to for camshaft (Berrys?).

Not going for all out but something that can hang in there and be reliable. First engine building project for us that doesn't use multiple turbos and tons of billet parts. I have a buddy that can do all the machine work for me, he builds alot of dirt track motors and worked the head and manifold I have over already.

Any help and suggestions appreciated. 
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2024 at 6:46pm
If it was mine, I'd probably not run it over 2500 RPM, due to the conn rods length being VERY SHORT for the extra stroke. I use Buda rods, but not in an open RPM kind of thing. Crankshaft has to be welded on and then offset reground for 5.5 inches stroke. I'd also whack off the throat on the intake manifold and weld on a larger one to accept a genuine Bendix carb from a 190XT. That works pretty good and years ago I even found a bigger I.D. venturi to fit it. Measure and test fit as the carb can hit the engine block. Might have to tip the carb out a little to clear. Don't know how a 175 cam grind will work with different ratio rockers. Be damn sure to have the valve guides pressed into the head at the proper height because I have seen the time where a higher lift cam began to smack an exhaust valve retainer into the top of the improperly installed (by someone else) valve guide. Ross pistons will make you Power crater bowl or flat top Pistons to YOUR specs and provide rings and piston pins.

Edited by DrAllis - 10 Aug 2024 at 9:51pm
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Zachrabbit15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zachrabbit15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2024 at 10:21pm
Thanks Doc, I was thinking at setting it up to run 2000-2200 to keep it reliable. That does bring up another question about ignition. Does anyone run a box through there Pertronix unit, like a 6Al or similar to help with spark and set rpm limits?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2024 at 10:22pm
Someone probably does. I don't. I use my governor.
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PaulB View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2024 at 8:09am
Just my thoughts and comparisons to what some others have done: I have always just used the Petronix electronic conversions inside of a recurved distributer with a matching coil. With everything I've aways stayed under 5,000 RPM and I've never had any issues that were connected to the ignition in any way. As you say you want to keep your RPM under 2500, why do you think some fancy race car ignition will do you any better?
  A few years back there was someone locally was running an IH W-9 that he had dumped an unreasonable  amount into it. He was always going out west to some big name antique tractor builder who had convinced this person that he needed an ignition system adapted from a race car that was capable of running 10,000 and was constantly having problems. I do not know the details of all the problems he was having, but he always remarked about how smooth and consistent my engines ran, even the turbocharged CA. A factory distributer in good condition with the Petronix conversion will hold the spark steady. Now this same person has brought a "turn key" big Case from the same builder that pops cracks and spits and puts out more smoke than the diesel I now pull. 
 Currently I've been pulling against someone that has a Fordson Super Major with what I suspect in a Genesis engine converted to spark ignition and he has a crank triggered system, which is always having problems. The control boxes seem to burn out often for him.


Edited by PaulB - 11 Aug 2024 at 12:13pm
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Zachrabbit15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zachrabbit15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2024 at 9:44am
That’s why I asked! Never had trouble with that on the LSS. Keeping it together was its issue 🤣
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Phil48ACWC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2024 at 6:17am
I have a good WD45 Crank Shaft I would sell. $300 plus shipping. 
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Zachrabbit15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zachrabbit15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 2024 at 7:00am
Already stroked?
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NEVER green View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2024 at 8:24am
  I would not got to Berry Cam, he does zero testing or research on his cams.

   Cam Craft cams has a damn good rep.
2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040   R50       
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Phil48ACWC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2024 at 3:01pm
Not stroked.
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