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Andrew_D View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Jun 2013 at 10:27pm
Thought I'd start a new thread about our new-to-us dozer (http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=70998&title=new-to-me-hd11-how-to-operate)

So I've been reading through the manuals and have some questions about filters and fluids. The previous owner estimates they only put on 40-50 hours pushing some fencelines and have done very little maintenance on the machine. (I think he said they only bought it last year.) I think it would be wise to change all fluids and filters once I get it here since who knows when it was last done.

I'll put some notes here and please have a look and see if I need to change anything:

Cooling System:
Don't see a filter listed. Planning to drain as best as I can and re-fill with water, run the engine up to temp, then drain. Once cooled, refill with 50/50 antifreeze.

Eng Crankcase:
Manual lists SAE30. Is the standard 15w40 that we use on the farm OK here? Or should we go to 10W-30 diesel oil? (We keep both of these in stock.) Could also get single-grade sae30, but it's always nice not to have to stock another type/grade of oil!
Filter (A/C#: 4371021) crosses to Fleet Guard #: LF509N.

Fuel Filters:
A/C#: 065583 crosses to Fleet Guard FF109. Baldwin # PF906.
A/C#: 4347787 crosses to Fleet Guard FF106. Baldwin # PF916.
On Baldwin's website, both the PF906 and PF916 indicated they could be changed to a spin-on using filter head FB1302 and filter BF593, which crossed to Fleet Guard 3833200s for the base and FF5021 or FF5335 for the filter. Thoughts on changing to a spin-on?? Should the same filter be used on both? I would think the second stage should be a finer filter....

Air Cleaner:
Manual says to use the same oil as the engine.

Transmission, Final Drives, Track Release Housing:
Manual says Engine Oil SAE50. Would 15w40 work or should I look for a 15w50 or single grade sae50? We use 50 weight oil for class 8 truck transmissions, would this work?

Grease for Support Roller, Truck Wheel, Track Idler:
Manual says to check with my dealer.....hmmm....
Around the farm we use John Deere "Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea". Will this be OK? Or should we use something with "Moly"??

Any other filters or fluids that I missed?

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 25 Aug 2013 at 1:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 6:39am
Heavy equipment works hard and deserves its oil. Oil has evolved since the manuals were written. Most important is to know where your new machine leaks oil because most old machines do. Most expensive repairs are to the final drive if it runs out of oil. The manuals say motor oil 50wt summer & 30wt winter. Many use GL5, I use universal transmission/hydraulic oil. I use 15w40 diesel motor oil. The hydraulic system is the most neglected. My HD6G's have a screen in the hydraulic tank and 2 filters in the top of the tank. On one of my machines the hydraulic oil was severely contaminated with water and mud. The paper filters had fallen appart and clogged the screen. I suggest cleaning the hydraulic tank. I use universal transmission/hydraulic oil here also. Give your new machine a good start change and check the oil. These are my opinions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 12:32pm
That's why I want to know what to use. I figure 50 years in the oil game, things have changed! Sounds like 15w40 for the engine and universal hydraulic for everything else??

Wasn't aware of filters for the tanks. I'll have to check the parts book again!

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 2:57pm
I have told you what is working sucessfully for me. The most important thing is if your machine has an oil leak, check the oil level often. The oil tank filters is a reference to my HD6G track loader. Allis Chalmers used other manufacturers for loaders and dozers. The hydraulic systems are different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lazyts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2013 at 9:30pm
I use GL5 in final drives, 15w40 for engine, tractor trans-hydraulic oil for everything else.  I know a lot of guys run 15w40 in everything in older Cat machines and it works fine.  Really the main thing is that it has oil, and it's not so old as to be half water and out of lubricating quality.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 5:04am
Thanks for the info Trevor. Yeah, I figure any oil is better than no oil. (Have used that theory on leaking combine gearboxes to get through the day actually...mix in a bit of this and a bit of that, just keep 'er full!)

If my research is correct, GL-5 doesn't really refer to a viscosity though. I see GL-5 referring to 75w-90, 80w-90, 80w-140, 85w-140. Obviously, 85w-140 is going to be a fair bit thicker than 75w-90!!

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lazyts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 12:14pm
80W90 is what I use, although I have used 85W140 in a leaky final drive.  I know what you are talking about with combine gear cases- corn head grease works good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 8:22am
Well, got them home yesterday. Only drove 'er enough to get off the trailer and parked.

Question on loading: The seller backed on to the trailer. Since there is so much weight over the front (engine, blade), the machine was standing almost straight up (well, it seemed like it!) trying to go on. I didn't have as much trouble driving off, but I kept the blade down. I've almost always seen dozers hauled facing forward...thoughts??

So the plan is to top off fluids as needed and run 'er up to temp. (There's a few things that need pushing here at the yard.) Then drain fluids, change filters, refill, adjust clutches, etc. Then I've got a yard site that needs some clean-up. Mostly old buildings and such. That will give me a chance to get used to it without watching for trees falling!

Steering clutches: The book talks about 1"-3" of free play, then pull back to steer. On this machine, the lever stands almost straight up/down. It can be pulled back to steer, but then the lever is hitting me in the berries! Also, from the straight up/down position, the lever can be pushed forward towards the dash. It feels like it is "snapping" over-center. Adjustment time, I think????

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 12:07pm
Found the serial number: HD11B-3880

Is there a list out there somewhere to narrow the year down?

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 1:08pm
So looking through the parts book, I see that there have been a few different fuel filter set-ups. The parts books I have show that they filters used 2 seperate mounting blocks up to S/S:4415, then switched to a single block that held both filters. As mentioned, my serial is 3880, however I have the single block that holds both fuel filters.

I'm also seeing different fuel filter numbers. 1 parts books shows filters with seperate filter heads. These filter numbers are different than all of the other parts books I've found. However, all of the other parts books use the same filter numbers, even though some are using 2 filter heads and others are using 1 double filter head! I think I'm going to have to sit down with all of the numbers and do some cross-reference checking!

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 15 Jun 2013 at 2:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 2:55pm
OK, so the first stage fuel filter listed above was 4347787. It crossed to Fleetguard # FF106. The first stage filter listed in my other books is 4055563 which also crosses to FF106. So far, so good!

Second stage was 065583. It crossed to Fleetguard #FF109. Second stage filter in the other books was 4056633. It also crosses to FF109.

So I definitely have the fuel filter numbers straightened out. Not sure why my S/N of 3880 has the 2 filter head when the parts book shows that for post S/N: 4415. Who knows, maybe there were problems with the filter head and it was upgraded. Or maybe the machine has had an engine replacement at some point. I'm still trying to find the engine serial number. It seems to have been buried in a generation of gunk!

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lazyts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2013 at 8:27pm
Somewhere around 1957... (if my memory is correct)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6 Merv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2013 at 12:51am
yep go along with 57 vintage.
you can use the same 50 oil in the finals as 'roadranger' gearboxs I run the chevron 454 series in all my finals cat and ac. Its actually abit thicker than the 90 gear oil if you look at whats called ISO oil charts. Although a lot of it boils down to preferences, and I in no way disagree with what trev prefers and he does own 11s.
tits tyres and tracks

they all cost you money
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 6:16am
Need some help here guys...

Took the oil bath air filter apart to clean it yesterday. The oil cup at the bottom was FULL of oil, congealed oil, mouse carcasses, mouse nest, misc debris, etc.

Even though the manual and parts book shows the canister as non-serviceable, I decided to disassemble. There are 3 layers (each approx 3" thick) of steel wool/brillo pad/??? The bottom one (closest to the oil bath) is completely congealed with oil. Next up isn't too bad. Top one was good. The middle one came apart while pulling it out, leaving me with a million feet of steel wool!

I'm thinking of finding a paper filter canister to use in its place. Has anyone changed over to a paper filter on these? What canister and filter number?

The space to fit is approx 10" diameter - might get to 11" if I relocate the blade hyd lines. Max length approx 24". Inlet to the engine manifold is 3 3/4", but I can make an adapter to any size needed.

First thing I thought of was our swather. MacDon swather has a 4-cyl 3.9L Cummins - small sibling to the common 5.9L. The housing is approx 9 1/2" x 18" so it might work. In and Out was 4 1/2", but has a 90º elbow to 3 1/2" or 3 3/4". Was after 5pm, so couldn't call for prices or check wrecking yards.

Andrew



Edited by Andrew_D - 21 Jun 2013 at 6:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 6:36am
You may want to check a few truck salvage yards, look for Peterbilt , White, Autocar or Kenworth units as they preferred large round dry element air cleaners usually mounted vertically. If you just want a air cleaner period look to Donaldson Filters for their specs charts and they may have a interchange unit Air Cleaner assembly. You may be better off to find another 11B and buy the filter assembly off of it. Chartrand Tractor Redbud IL ships parts, as does Zimmerman Tractor Versailles MO and General Gear Boise Idaho would be best choices for a OE Oil bath.

On this forum, on your side of the border; Gemdozer, gemdozer@hotmail.com

Hector has quite a collection of old Allis.

Edited by DMiller - 21 Jun 2013 at 6:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 10:39am
I thought of checking out trucks. Problem is the size 10-11" max diameter, 24" long. Unless I was going to mount it above the hood....mini D8K look??

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2013 at 11:43am
Some of the older Petes used smaller diameter filer housings, may be too long though and the inlet will be 6-8" diameter.

I would definitely give hector a try then general gear as they will be closest to you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug 2013 at 9:57pm
Time for an update!

Well, the ol' girl is back together finally. Drained all fluids out. Replaced the filters and re-filled everything. Greased as per the manual. (Had to make an adapter to grease the rollers.) Finally got the air filter in on Friday. The local shop had it ordered for me, but after a month and not hearing anything, I phoned them and they couldn't find where it had been ordered. Took another 2 weeks to come in!

Ended up going with a RC-5171 from K&N. It's got a 4" inlet and the intake manifold is 3 3/4", so spent today with some 4" exhaust elbows fabbing up a way to get the 4" above the hood. Used on of the old 3 3/4" rubber hose connectors that was on the machine - a soak in hot water and I was able to stretch it over the 4" pipe. The 4" comes up through the original air filter hole in the hood, then I put the K&N on it. Still need to make a bit of a protective cover around the filter, but she was running this afternoon!

Also adjusted the steering clutches, engine clutch, steering brakes. Everything runs much better. Before, it would barely steer Left and only somewhat to the Right. Now, it will almost spin me off the seat!

Still washing out the rad. I filled with water today, ran the engine for a bit and drained it again. Going to fill with water and Rad Flush in the morning and head over to the neighbour's. He's been diggin in water lines at his place so I can work the engine for a bit while filling in the trench. The original plan for the machine is pushing bush, but this will give me a chance to get used to running it before there are trees falling around me!

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 21 Aug 2013 at 9:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:12am
Andrew,
 
Does that dry filter have safety elements inside it?  If you're going to be in dusty conditions that seems to be the go.
 
The AC 45 grader we got has been fitted with a Donaldson Duoclone (? spelling) with no safetys.  I'm contemplating getting a second hand FA 10 filter unit which would simplify our spares as we have that dozer.
 
We encounter a particularly fine dust here.  A serviceman tells of a Cat rep getting samples with the comment  "We can't grind it this fine".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:50am
Originally posted by Ian Beale Ian Beale wrote:

Andrew,
 
Does that dry filter have safety elements inside it?  If you're going to be in dusty conditions that seems to be the go.
 
The AC 45 grader we got has been fitted with a Donaldson Duoclone (? spelling) with no safetys.  I'm contemplating getting a second hand FA 10 filter unit which would simplify our spares as we have that dozer.
 
We encounter a particularly fine dust here.  A serviceman tells of a Cat rep getting samples with the comment  "We can't grind it this fine".


No safety element. This K&N filter clamps onto the end of the 4" pipe, so not even sure how a guy would install a second one.

The filter: http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-5171

They also have a couple of options for covers:
http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=25-5166
http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=RC-5166DK

Haven't decided on if it needs a cover yet. Am planning to make a cylinder out of expanded metal to place around the filter for a bit of protection. Then add a cone on top of that to shed water.

For those unfamiliar with this type of filter, here's a pic of some from different angles:
http://www.carid.com/images/kn/air-filters/kn-round-tapered-universal-air-filters.jpg

The 4" pipe goes into that hole in the center, then tighten the clamp.

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 4:52pm
Andrew,
 
The FA 10 filter (and other dozer ones I think) has a second set of elements inside between the main element and the pipe to the engine.  So, in case of a pinhole in the main one, you have a back-up set.  Which, being smaller, chokes up faster and triggers the filter warning.
 
I've heard of a D9 just overhauled that was ruined quick time by taking out the secondaries "because they kept choking up".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 5:43pm
Yes, I know what secondary filters are. I think pretty much all of our farm equipment has them. Our rules for them are: Never take out the inner filter to clean it! If it's plugged, it  needs changing - Replace both filters with new ones!

Well, pushing dirt for the neighbour went OK, I guess. It was damp clay, so I couldn't get very much into the blade before it would spin out. Ended up moving around a bunch so that stuff could dry out a bit, then going back for another pass.

At 3:30 we shut down for some lemonade and dessert and when I went to fire it back up, the starter solenoid wouldn't release. By the time I realized what was going on, I ended up burning off a battery cable before I could get the clamp off the post. Heading back in the morning to repair...

Andrew



Edited by Andrew_D - 22 Aug 2013 at 5:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mactractor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 6:24pm
Those type of filters are only for automotive, marine, or industrial application, and will not be effective in the high dust earthmoving and agricultral environments. End result, a dusted, wrecked engine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 7:32pm
Originally posted by Mactractor Mactractor wrote:

Those type of filters are only for automotive, marine, or industrial application, and will not be effective in the high dust earthmoving and agricultral environments. End result, a dusted, wrecked engine. 


I didn't know that! Good to know.

I wonder if the foam cover would be sufficient? For some reason, I'm thinking not... Will have to rethink the filter I guess.

Andrew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote creeperfreak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 7:38pm
Invest in panty-hose,  two precleaners to a pair! Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 8:35pm
Originally posted by creeperfreak creeperfreak wrote:

Invest in panty-hose,  two precleaners to a pair! Wink


I've heard stories that panty-hose will keep something else out of somewhere else....maybe they'd work on keeping dirt out of filters as well????? LOL

Andrew


Edited by Andrew_D - 22 Aug 2013 at 8:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lazyts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2013 at 11:05pm
I'd just go to an ag wrecking yard and find something that would fit on- pretty well every tractor and combine has had a dry element system with safety filter since the early 70's- you're bound to find something it will fit.  I know one guy was telling me he mounted the air cleaner from an old combine on his HD11.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2013 at 4:07am
Andrew,
 
The serviceman I mentioned above ran a large machinery workshop.
 
He went so far as installing a stud in the pipe after the air cleaner with a dob of grease on it which could be checked for signs of dust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2013 at 7:28am
Lazyts:

Trevor, sent you an email. re: HD11

Andrew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andrew_D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2013 at 1:23pm
So once I got the dozer back from pushing at my neighbour's, I saw that it had developed a water leak in the vicinity of the water pump. I grabbed the pulley and found way too much movement in the shaft. Rebuild time!

In the process of removing the belts, I found that the fan hub had about 1/8" forward/backward motion, so I pulled the hub out, disassembled and cleaned everything. Turns out the bearings are fine, just needed the castle nut on the end tightened and since I was in there anyway, I made some new gaskets, etc. Also took apart the fan belt tightener, cleaned out the old grease and re-assembled.

Now on to that darn water pump. It corresponds to the "Fourth Type" of water pump listed in the parts book. I got the four 5/16"NF bolts out that hold the pulley to the hub, but could not get the pulley to come off of the hub. I tried prying, tapping with a hammer, etc. Nothing worked. Finally ended up hanging upside down between the engine and rad while I slowly turned out the six 3/8"NC bolts that were holding the pump to the timing gear housing. The bottom two are not easy to get when the pulley is still on there!! I figured that once they came up against the pulley, they would either jack the pulley off of the hub, or jack the entire assembly out of the timing gear housing. Either way should work....hopefully.

Well, the pulley came off of the hub. I still had to get the pump out of the timing gear housing and after tapping sideways back and forth, I was finally able to get a small razor-thin chisel edge in between and eventually the pump came out.

Taking the pump apart on the bench revealed that I am in for a fair bit of searching at this point. Both bearings are toast. By toast, I mean that all of the balls are rattling around inside the housing. Seals are go0ne as well, obviously. I have no idea how this wasn't leaking before???

Well, off to the WWW to see if I can find cross-references for these parts. Anyone know off the top of their head?

4044210 BEARING, ball, front

4044212 BEARING, ball, rear

4507084 FLINGER, water

4507091 SEAL ASSEMBLY

Andrew
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