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OldSchoolRecovery 
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Joined: 06 Nov 2015
Location: Eagle River, WI
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 Posted: 20 Nov 2015 at 8:04pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 20 Nov 2015 at 8:05pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 20 Nov 2015 at 8:05pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 20 Nov 2015 at 8:06pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 20 Nov 2015 at 8:10pm |
Contraption I built to move two stuck pistons. Well the bar stock wasnt strong enough, but did put a little tension on the slugs. Couple raps with a hammer moved both pistons about a half an inch down.
I locked the sleeves down with bolts and washers. But the starter wont move them yet, so I am soaking them some 50/50 acetone/transmission fluid.
cb1
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 945
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Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 12:24am |
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You are well on your way. You do have the advantage of the pistons being high up in the sleeves...will be easy to hone out the deposits of crud once you're down a bit more. We'll look forward to your next report.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:09pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:09pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:10pm |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:16pm |
Ok, Arhggg, had to pull the sleeve as I could not get the piston to move freely enought, i.e. with the starter, etc.
Glad I did as it looks like the rod bearing(s) are wiped out. Looks like a complete now.
Pressed the piston out of the sleeve, yuk..
Oh, and I think I solved the riddle. They (???) left the skid pan off and put a whopper of a dent in the oil pan, which in turn lifted the oil pickup out of the oil and walla, no oil, wiped bearings. Then left out in the rain.
The good news is I really like this machine and how its put together. Simple enough for even me. And it doesnt look as bad as the pictures.
Now, pull the motor and put on a stand and the dozer on trailer back outside until the motor is dun.
cb1
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:21pm |
Well, I didn't count on pistons running dry before the bearings got wiped out... and then the rust formed on that dry steel...
you are right, your in for a full overhaul... and get that block cooked. Check the oil pump too, see if theres rust in it and make sure the little springs that hold the vanes apart are good. Hope the pistons are salvageable.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:27pm |
New pistons, rings and sleeves are $90 a pop, so not too terrible...
cb1
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:30pm |
Where the crank stopped I can read M020, R030 and another number. So shes been rebuild before.
Rods at 030 is a concern as Im not too sure if they (Allis) surface hardened thier cranks and to what thickness.
I see they have new cranks out there for $400. A little pricey but may have too...
cb1
Edited by OldSchoolRecovery - 23 Nov 2015 at 9:30pm
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:42pm |
 Ages Cat wrote:
We recently removed a stuck engine from a D grader. The cam lobes were rusted, the lifter faces had rust, the cam gear, several pistons were stuck in the sleeves and the crankshaft was cracked about 150 degrees of the circumference. When you tear down a stuck engine, it is a pandoras box. The H3 may have been parked due to low oil pressure and if that is the case, then it is cam bearings, mains, rods , etc. Unless you completely dis assemble it, you won't know what you have. Our HD-3 is my favorite tractor and since these are so much fun to own and operate, you want it to be dependable. The engine is the heartbeat of any tractor. You want it to be beating on all four. |
Yep,
cb1
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gallatin,TN
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Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:56pm |
OldSchoolRecovery wrote:
Where the crank stopped I can read M020, R030 and another number. Â So shes been rebuild before.
Rods at 030 is a concern as Im not too sure if they (Allis) surface hardened thier cranks and to what thickness.
I see they have new cranks out there for $400. Â A little pricey but may have too...
cb1
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Grinding your crank will be a hundred plus dollars. Buy a new one, you will save money on it and the bearings. Check the block,oil pump and galleys. A very stout engine if running correctly. Good Luck.
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 11:58am |
I see rod bearing for sale at .040 over. Seams like a lot to me. Any thoughts?
cb1
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JohnCO
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 1:35pm |
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Seems like getting a new crank is the way to go, expensive but in the big picture, the engine will be just like brand new. 040 over is a lot and a potential problem down the road, imho.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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JC-WI
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 5:48pm |
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Old school, did you delete pictures off the Allis storage site? All your first pics are showing up as a boxed X.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 5:54pm |
I did. Didnt want too many on there and I did not know that they would be gone. Not sure if I put them back in there that they will show, but will try..
cb1
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 5:58pm |
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JC-WI
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Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 7:45pm |
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There is 20 megs of space... I have over 160 pics in there.... I need to delete some since I am getting close to maxed out. ... but that has been since sept. 2009. Guess its time for a cleaning. LOL
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Location: Eagle River, WI
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:32am |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:33am |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:33am |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:34am |
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Got the motor out. Took all of about an hour.
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:34am |
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OldSchoolRecovery
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 2:39am |
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New motor getting ready to go in!!
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 8:11am |
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Looks like a little more power!?
good shots! Maybe this will get me going on some of my projects:)
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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JC-WI
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 9:09am |
Sugarmaker, It looks like he's yanking that old model A motor out to put in his crawler.  LOL
OSR, yur makin progress...
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Eric B
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
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Posted: 25 Nov 2015 at 12:12pm |
You are really good with the wrenches!!  You have the virtue of being able to stay focussed. My Dad, soon 82, is the same, once he tears into a tractor he stays on it 'til it's finished making very good use of time. I wish for more of the same for myself 
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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