Gleaner M combine 301 engine

Looking for help. Had to pull the fuel pump off my combine to have it rebuilt. Not knowing any better, i pulled it without putting the pump in time. Now i need to. Get it in time. Would i be right to put the pump in time with the lines lined up and the engine fly wheel at TDC? Any help greatly appreciated

Dr. Allis,

It is a spline shaft with a small cut out that locks into a small slot inside the pump. The shaft does go through the engine wall like you described. The pump is a roosa master and the engine is a Mark I i believe. Its a Gleaner M 1978. I didnt remove the pump correctly and now I am having timing issues. I had the pump lines lined up and the engine at TDC and hot it started, but it smoked like crazy. Do you think its 16 or 24 BTDC? I see on the fly wheel there is numerous slash marks next to the TDC mark. Are those used to get it BTDC? I am very new at all this. But Im learning a lot as I go. Thanks.
Greg

More then likely you will have to time the front damper pulley to the correct degrees mark against the pointer on thr front cover. Then remove the small window on the side of the pump, then loosen the 2 mounting screws for the pump and line up the internal marks on the pump by rotating it. If the one mark isn't visable. Turn engine 1 full revolution and line marks up. Do not turn the pump with the engine running.

Mr. Allis,

So lineup like 20 degrees before top dead center you think? Im getting really good at the umbrella seals. Lol

Thanks greg

Remove the small window on the side of the injection pump. Looking in the window you will see a horizontal mark in the rear half of the window. Rotate the engine by hand until you see a second horizontal mark appear in the front half of the window. Align them to each other. Now, what does the crankshaft pulley say  ??????  I don't have my Service Book with me, but I think it should be 16 to 18 degrees BTDC with the two marks aligned to each other. I only know of one guy who ever got that splined driveshaft together incorrectly, and he used the pumps mounting nuts to draw the pump onto the drive shaft. It broke off the alignment tang inside the shaft.

pump numbers would help so I can tell you what timing spec is. I'd have thought the shop who rebuilt it for you would have offered up some technical support! 10JT is 24*, 24JT is 18*. Many of these were updated to 8* advance from 5* so they could be put on at 18* for better starting. 

I never looked in my books, but a 10JT is 24 degrees according to Ed's information.

After the pros rebuilt the pump, would it still be under the same stats. They did retag it.

They told me they do not have that information pertaining to the engine timing. I was a little suprised.

It is sad. The exact BTDC is so hard to find. Im thinking they have it at their finger tips. Because its smoking so much, im guessing it to far and i need to come back to like 14 or 12 btdc instead of 20.

24 degree before top dead center then plus 6? So 30 Degrees BTDC? The only timing marks i found are on the fly wheel. It has a mark for TDC. Thats a v mark and lines after seem to be in 1 degree incerments.

Gregc72deer wrote: Im not sure what the balancer is?

Front crank pulley is the balancer or damper. It will have a layer of rubber between the inner hub and outer sheave. There should be a timing mark that lines up from the hub to the sheave and if it's off the rubber has slipped.

24 degrees BTDC on the crank pullly. That i can do. The pump 1/2 speed i did not know. Im very new to this. Lol. So as long as i lineup the crank pulley at 24 degrees, put the pump on with pump lines in line, that should be right?

Almost.  Line up the crank pulley to the pointer on the timing cover at 24 degrees BEFORE-TDC, not after TDC.  You also must be on #1 cylinder compression stroke, not #6. This means both rocker arms on #1 cylinder will be loose.  If the pump is still on the engine, getting the pump window marks CLOSE to each other should mean you are on #1 compression stroke. Then, make the crank pulley read 24 degrees BEFORE TDC, and this should be done while rotating the engine in its normal direction. This means have the engine on 30 degrees BTDC and move it to 24 degrees BTDC to take all the slack out of the timing gears.

I did also pull the valve cover and made sure both the exhaust and fuel intake were both closed on the 1 # cylinder. That lined up with TDC on the pully.