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wjohn 
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2015
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 Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 9:51am |
 GM Guy wrote:
squirt the sealed bearings with a teflon infused penetrating oil. If the bearings are not shot, dont replace them. most bearings on these old girls are not under heavy load and can last forever if kept clean and lubed. modern replacements are usually not as good of quality.
Make sure and remove the cleanout covers if storing outside, and blow EVERYTHING off, any crop residue holds moisture and rots things quickly.
Where in KS are you?
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I'm not far at all from Clay. Schmidt and Sons must be one of the best AGCO dealers in the world for covering the older stuff. We are lucky they are so close.
Covers are all opened. I still have a mess in the raddle but everything else has been cleaned out and left open.
Thanks for those tips on the bearings. What if the bearing is totally gone?  Unfortunately I for sure have one that needs to be replaced. I missed it when I looked the combine over in the dark barn, but it wouldn't have changed what I paid for it. I'll have to build the shaft up or see if the one in the parts combine is still good.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2015
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 9:55am |
ac fleet wrote:
Mine would start as soon as you hit the key! Hot or cold. Carb plugged a few times but no biggie. I found they needed to be choked just the right amount of time then go to half choke and after a few seconds of warmup they ready to go. Mine didnt have many acres ever run thru it before I got it from the looks of it. Any I sold it to a friend who used for many years after that and he too liked it. Just stay out of the foxtail!!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Thanks for the tip on the choke. I don't have that down yet but I can tell there is some magical combination that lets it start. It could still be that the ignition needs gone through better or the rings are just worn out, but even with a fresh carb teardown and cleanout, this was the most finicky starting gas engine I've maybe every touched.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2015
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 10:01am |
tomNE wrote:
not good in soybeans. Can custom hire someone with a draper header and get beans combined for 0$$$$ compared to cutting them with a C2! |
I don't think I'd ever get a custom combiner into my 20 acres at a decent time, or maybe ever. Custom hay is just as bad here. You have to do it yourself or you're waiting until months after the time was right.
They also probably can't turn those huge headers around in half of my little fields. Ha!
I am curious how much loss I will have in soybeans with this rig.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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tomNE
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: dorchester, ne
Points: 1225
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 10:17am |
does corn head have flat chain or roller chain?
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ac fleet
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Joined: 12 Jan 2014
Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
Points: 2320
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 11:05am |
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been loss was not bad on mine. Ya in todays world you bout gotta do everything yourself if you dont have a million acres! I used to enjoy my little 137 acres. Had to go with crp since the crop inputs were getting so costly and that was the best move ever! NOW I can enjoy the farm again!
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8283
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 1:24pm |
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Cut beans with 4 cylinder bars and use the small sprocket on the cylinder beater. That's how I ran my A2 for 19 yrs. Had welded bars and would eat anything green....just better keep an eye on the chopper after a big bite of trash.
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wjohn
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Location: KS
Points: 2015
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Posted: 15 hours 38 minutes ago at 8:41pm |
SteveM C/IL wrote:
Cut beans with 4 cylinder bars and use the small sprocket on the cylinder beater. That's how I ran my A2 for 19 yrs. Had welded bars and would eat anything green....just better keep an eye on the chopper after a big bite of trash. |
I do have to look into the beater sprockets still. I keep forgetting to get a tooth count on mine to see what I have, but out here in wheat country, it may not be setup for what is ideal for soybeans. Maybe AGCO still has some of those and the cylinder speed sprockets available if I'm lucky. I hope I can make the 800 RPM slowest speed out of the belt drive cylinder setup work for beans, but it might be good to have the slowdown sprockets and chain setup in my back pocket. It gets awfully hot and dry out here.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2015
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Posted: 12 hours 50 minutes ago at 11:29pm |
I've been making progress on the CII since the weather has stayed warm enough to work outside. There had been an intermittent lurching when you drove it. After pulling the trans brake drum, it was packed full of wheat and fluffier stuff. I am guessing it was enough to engage the pads to the drum just slightly now and then. I have the axle shafts pulled off and am going to inspect the steering brakes just to be sure they're fine.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8283
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Posted: 2 hours 2 minutes ago at 10:17am |
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I don't think 800rpm will be slow enough for soys. 5-600 takes care of most beans. I think the lurching is design thing. A lot of connections in the drive line.
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