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BuckSkin 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2019
Location: Poor Farm
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 Topic: Need a 1-inch Hole Through a Steel Tank ???
Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 12:38am |
Diesel Fuel Tank --- flat surface.
Currently, I have a 1-inch Bi-Metal Hole Saw that has never been used; some of the other sizes have been used.
The box says High Speed Steel Teeth among other things.
I also have an incremental set of Razor-Sharp Silver & Deming bits up to 1-inch size; two matching sets, in fact.
I first thought the Hole Saw; but, no matter what I am cutting, they never tend to make the most accurate hole and sometimes not even round.
My thoughts are the big drill bits might make the better, more accurate hole.
My intentions would be to approach final diameter incrementally.
But then, those big bits can grab; and, when they grab, they grab violently; hopefully, one wouldn't grab so violently as to tear the tank.
I intend to thoroughly Power-Wash the insides of the tank once the hole is made, so I am not overly concerned with whatever shavings and filings might be a part of the process.
If something were to get left inside the tank, I would prefer it be a big long drill shaving rather than grinder dust.
Nothing is going to get past the gauntlet of filters between tank and engine, so anything left behind is more cosmetic that something to actually lose sleep over.
I have no idea how thick the tank is; it is a factory Ford steel fuel tank.
So, what will it be; Hole Saw or Big Drill Bits or do I need to spend money and wait for something else ?
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Dirt Farmer
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 12:52am |
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If I was tackling that job in my farm shop I'd use a step up drill bit that has many different sizes on each level of the bit and go slowly, they tend to be user friendly and cut nearly perfect round holes aldo you can test fit the pieces as you step through the hole sizes. Hope this helps
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 1:18am |
 Dirt Farmer wrote:
If I was tackling that job in my farm shop I'd use a step up drill bit that has many different sizes on each level of the bit and go slowly, they tend to be user friendly and cut nearly perfect round holes aldo you can test fit the pieces as you step through the hole sizes. Hope this helps |
Excellent idea ! However, my step-drills only go up to 3/4-inch.
Maybe I need to procure one that goes past 1-inch.
It is amazing how they can drill through something that would have other ordinary bits grabbing and making big burr edges around the hole.
I have never checked the angles on them; I don't know how they do what they do.
The only draw-back I have found to step-drills is I can't figure a way for my Drill Doctor to sharpen them.
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 4:12am |
Lenox step drill as shown here. Just a screen grab as Lowe's and the box stores sell the same thing:
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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ac fleet
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 6:30am |
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I just make a 1/4" hole then a 1/2 3/4 then final 1" --- they wont grab if you go easy and the main thing is SLOW speed drill so you can control it. Takes a bit of effort but it will work.
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IBWD MIke
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Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 7:16am |
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Another vote for the step-drill! I've made some ugly holes in thin stuff using a twist-drill.
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Gary
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 7:35am |
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I always use various sizes of individual drills when drilling through any metal that is more than a 1/16" thick.
Also keep the drills sharp with a Drill Doctor.
G
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 8:29am |
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Step drill.
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 8:57am |
I do a lot of sheet metal work and have a good selection of step drills of good quality. I have been using them for several years and most have never needed re-sharpening other than one or two have had a slight touch up on the initial penetrating tip.
I would recommend one for your project.
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 9:10am |
Gary wrote:
Also keep the drills sharp with a Drill Doctor.
G |
Drill Doctors are every bit as wonderful as they bragged them up to be way back when they were "As Seen on TV" material.
My wife got me my first one, the 750, for Christmas years ago and it is still going strong today, hardly a day passes that it isn't used at least once.
I can't remember, but it seems like she paid something like $150 and that was way back when a hunnert-dollar bill was big as a saddle blanket.
We hit lots of swap meets and I hoard stuff up; I have a very sharp eye for things I need and can use.
Since she got me my Drill Doctor 750, I have picked up three more just like it, brand-new and still in a dust-covered box, the wire ties still on the cords and all the accessories still in the little bags, probably never plugged in the wall, for something like five bucks apiece; I never saw one for sale like that before she got me mine.
I am sure some relative got these as gifts for the swap meet guys who were selling them for next to nothing.
I just can't fathom a genuine American male never using his Drill Doctor and then selling it at some yard sale for men; it actually causes me to lose respect for such an individual.
I always grab these when I see them as a replacement stone would cost lots more; but, I have so far only ever used that first one that she got for me while these others lay in waiting for the day it either quits or needs a stone.
I guess when I finally get my big many-bayed shop that I have been wanting all my life, and can finally quit laying on big #5 Limestone rocks out in the sun and rain, I can distribute all these Drill Doctors at various drill sharpening stations throughout the shop so I won't have to quit what I am doing and get on the golf-cart and ride it to the other end of the building to sharpen my bit.
Mine does up to 3/4"; I guess that's where the "750" comes in; the "500" does up to 1/2"
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 11:54am |
IBWD MIke wrote:
Another vote for the step-drill! I've made some ugly holes in thin stuff using a twist-drill.
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X2.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 1:30pm |
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Two step process drill hole , say 1/4" or 3/8" and use a knock out punch used for electrical conduct . Thread the die into tank with wire to center it , also with die attached externally to something to hold it in place when other side of die is threaded into punch .
Could replace the draw bolt in outer die and use a bolt with long thread or fully threaded rod as the bolt to compress die , to hold in place while punching .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 2:13pm |
Coke-in-MN wrote:
... use a knock out punch used for electrical conduct ... |
I thought of that too but figured not everyone had one in their back pocket. I sometimes wish I still had access to those from my sawmill days, but I don't have enough use for them nowadays to justify spending any money.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 3:09pm |
curious.... what is the hole for ? If you need a precise 1" HOLE, USE A 7/8" holesaw, then file to 1.00000"
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DiyDave
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 3:26pm |
I'd use the step drill you have, and just drill the 1/4" starter hole, to see the thickness of the tank. That will put an end to the speculation of what to use to finish it... 
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 4:39pm |
jaybmiller wrote:
curious.... what is the hole for ? If you need a precise 1" HOLE, USE A 7/8" holesaw, then file to 1.00000"
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The hole is for a bulk-head fitting.
You have a lot more confidence in the accuracy of my filing than I do and I have made hammers, sears, and triggers from raw stock.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 17 Jun 2024 at 5:38pm |
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OK, one mystery solved !
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Tbone95
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Posted: 18 Jun 2024 at 10:05am |
jaybmiller wrote:
curious.... what is the hole for ? If you need a precise 1" HOLE, USE A 7/8" holesaw, then file to 1.00000"
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WHAT?!  FILE? .0625 per side, round, and be precise???? You’ll have to prove that. How many days would that take? The step drills are great, but you say you’re not sure how thick the tank is. They aren’t so great after a certain thickness. Just how precise and why?
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Tbone95
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Posted: 18 Jun 2024 at 10:08am |
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Bulkhead fitting doesn’t have to be “that” precise. 1 inch drill would be fine. Though you are right, they can really grab hard even taking it easy. If too thick for your step drill you could ream it.
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 18 Jun 2024 at 10:20am |
Tbone95 wrote:
Bulkhead fitting doesn’t have to be “that” precise. 1 inch drill would be fine. Though you are right, they can really grab hard even taking it easy. If too thick for your step drill you could ream it. |
By "ream it", I am assuming you are meaning with an actual purpose-made reamer.
That is a really good option that I hadn't thought of if I needed to sneak up on final size.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 18 Jun 2024 at 10:38am |
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Yes, an actual reamer.
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Tbone95
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Posted: 18 Jun 2024 at 10:42am |
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Challenges with that are getting the reamer, which could be pricey, and making the last drilled hole the appropriate size for the stock the reamer is intended to cut.
Been years since I put a bulkhead on a tank, but the last one I did was 4 inch. Used a hole saw. Didn’t leak. 🤷♂️
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