This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


1940's Allis Chalmers B Restoration

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
PickyPotatoPosse View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PickyPotatoPosse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1940's Allis Chalmers B Restoration
    Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:10pm
Hello,

A couple years ago I started restoring my Model B, and got a lot of help here. Life got in the way and I had to leave off the work for a while, but I'm finally getting back to the project.

My current problem is that I can't get the darn thing to start! I have compression, spark, and (I believe) fuel. I may have to tear the carb apart again for another rebuild in case I missed a passage, but I can't get it to start on ether either. I'm clueless as to what could be the problem! Any ideas?

Thank you
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
steve(ill) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 77210
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:15pm
if it wont start on ether, then you dont have a spark, or the timing is off.. If you are SURE you have a good spark, then i would check the timing ... Mark is on the flywheel.. look thru the 1 inch hole on the side of the housing... Should have spark when at the TDC mark, NOT the FIRE mark... It will advance to FIRE after it starts.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
Back to Top
CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22807
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:23pm
The TDC mark shows up twice for each spark you have. The spark HAS to be there when at TDC of the COMPRESSION Stroke.
 Put you thumb over #1 plug hole(its easier to do with all plugs out)and turn the engine over till you feel compression against your thumb. Bring it up to TDC and that is where the spark needs to happen for the engine to run.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Back to Top
WF owner View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4347
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 6:57am
You didn't say if the tractor has a magneto or distributor. If it has a mag, this is the best link I have found for timing a mag. If it has a distributor, I think he has that on another page.
Back to Top
PickyPotatoPosse View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PickyPotatoPosse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:16am
It's a distributor, but seems to be an earlier model than what all the manuals and other people show on their Model B's.

As far as the inspection hole, I can't seem to find it. If I understand, it should be on the left side of the torque tube, right around where the tube starts to taper down in size?


1940 B in restoration process
Back to Top
PickyPotatoPosse View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PickyPotatoPosse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:24am
I have just realized that the timing hole is covered by the mower-frame bolted on in that spot. Guess I know today's project!
1940 B in restoration process
Back to Top
Steve in NJ View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11502
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:51am
The picture you posted is a picture of a Magneto. If that's what's on your engine, you have a Magneto not a Distributor.  As Steve/IL mentioned, if it didn't fire on ether it either has a spark issue or timing is off.
Steve!B&B
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
Back to Top
pumpkinman View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 20 Jul 2011
Location: S.E. Michigan
Points: 252
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkinman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 10:34am
the timinlg hole is on fhe left side the mower bracket will swing out of the way
Back to Top
WF owner View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4347
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 7:13pm

Back to Top
WF owner View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4347
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 7:14pm
Make sure the gears inside the mag are timed right, then make sure the mag is timed to the engine correctly.
Back to Top
PickyPotatoPosse View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PickyPotatoPosse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2020 at 6:04pm
Thank you for the clarification and help! Turns out the timing was very much off, and for the first time in ~20 years, she ran! For a good 15 seconds. Now it's back to the carb, it'll run on ether but not gas. I've never had good luck with updraft carbs
1940 B in restoration process
Back to Top
PickyPotatoPosse View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2018
Location: Midwest
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PickyPotatoPosse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 6:36pm
So it runs on ether, and will pop/fire once or twice on just the carb, but not run on JUST carb. I used the rebuild kit a few years ago, and cleaned it out very well just last week. Any idea what the problem now could be?
1940 B in restoration process
Back to Top
steve(ill) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 77210
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:30pm
well,  the float is stuck up, or the inlet gas valve is stuck closed... or the main jet is plugged............ if it wont run, but starts on ether, then the carb is still bad....... unless you have a BIG air leak in the intake manifold.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
Back to Top
steve(ill) View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 77210
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:38pm
and your sure you have gas flow thru the fuel line / filter / to the carb ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
Back to Top
WF owner View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 4347
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 5:40am
I always start with the easiest solution first.

I would remove the gas line at the carburetor and check to see if you have a good steady flow of gas. Let it drain in a container for several seconds to see if the flow stays steady. Often it will flow good for a few seconds, then slow up. 

You might have to drain the tank and remove the sediment bowl and clean the inlet. Remove the shutoff valve and blow it out also.

If you have good gas flow, you either have a problem in the carb or manifold.
Back to Top
Eric B View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 880
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 10:07pm
Is your gas reasonably fresh? I've had it in two of my A-C's that they refused to start (with good spark) due to gas that had lost some of the essential components from slow evaporation. The gas smelled perfectly normal but would not fire. After draining tank and carb they both started immediately with fresh gas. I was in disbelief over the night and day difference Embarrassed
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.063 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum