Two-Ten with 670I out of N5 Timing issues

Greetings, I should contribute more then swinging through occasionaly in a dire way! Two winters ago we started the project of putting a 670I (Gleaner N5) engine into a Two-Ten. Orginal engine had sat open to the elements for many many years. I knew we would run into things with the front plate. We pulled rockers and cam and changed plates ,the injection pump holes were machined exactly in the Two-Ten plate as though it was on the combine plate to use N5 pump. I have photos but it seems to be a struggle I will try to upload later. Anyways everything went together pretty smoothly. Untill we went to start it. Messed and messed with it and it would just run absolutely aweful. My friend who I purchased the project from said we might have the pump 180 off. Sure enough we were. We had only ran it a little while like this knowing something was off. Silly mistake. From what I understand this engine is the same as a 7080? The book says 22° we set it there but the engine kind of idles with some unbunt fuel but definitely starts to miss a little when you pick up the throttle. If you pin its ears back it sounds as though it picks them all up sounds like like a dang puller, full throttle it has the flutter/miss again. We have worked off and on on it for almost two years now. Never leaving the shop. Happen to have a little time and was just trying to get imput on what I presume to still be a timing issue. Is 22° BTDC correct? Thank you in advance.

Try 16 degrees on the Stanadyne pump.

Does it have Bosch Injectors? if so is the return line on the valve cover side? they can be installed a half a turn off, messes up the angle of the spray pattern and runs like crap.

I naturally new they were not identical but were close. I do not have a service manual for an N5. So 7080 was what I thought was needed to go off of. Thank you for the information of the book saying 18° for this engine. I have rolled it around to 16°. Started it up and it seemed to maybe idle better but picking up throttle it definitely ran even worse. I looked at the injectors and the return lines face the valve cover. Last year before we realized we were 180 off on the pump I purchased rebuilt injectors from Spencer Diesel. The injectors were for the Roosa pump. After putting them in we realized the pump was way off. I also got a salvage front crank pully from an 8070 because the combine pully only had one belt groove. I need to recheck to make sure those marks are the some. I cant imagine the pullys be timed different. I'm hoping there is still something we are over looking. Would the pump need rebuilt? It had sat for a number of years but not terribly long.
Thanks again for everyones input.

Did you put a new torsion damper on the 8070 pulley

I have a 8070. 3 actually. One got a knock in the lower crankcase area. Sounded like a rod knock. Its fwa so i had to move the front axle out to get the oil pan off. Pulled the rod caps. Nothing wrong with the nearings. Then i was stumped. After much discussion on the forum someone suggested the damper might be bad. Put a new one on it and fixed it. Bob King at reliance works can get you one. Theres a heavy oil and a weight inside. The oil hardens up over time and causes thw weght not to move. That causes torsional deflections in the crankshaft. It wiil cause it to run bad because it makes the head on the injection pump jiggle around. If it goes on long enough it has been known to break cranks. It will be around 700.00 if they havent gone up. I think its cheap insurance