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tjco99 
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Joined: 26 May 2011
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 Topic: 5030 will not fire
Posted: 26 May 2011 at 9:01pm |
Hello, im new to this forum and I have owned my ac 5030 for almost three years.
The other day I was tillin around my trees and it laboured down then backfired and quit. I noticed it was leakin oil so i pulled it over to the shop and had a look. It blew out the rubber seal around the valve cover. so fixed that drained oil, nothin was in the pan, shavings water, just oil.
I then tried to start it and nothing. Pulled the injectors out, got fuel. Glow plus are black and bulbed so i found some online and they are on the way.
I was talking to friend who is a mechanic and he said to try some ether. I did and when it got a sniff it quit turning over. It turns over now, but my question is where else does a guy look? Do I need to tear it down? Now I dont know very much about these units and up until now it was just basic maint. Any help would be great. Thanks
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ALLISMAN32
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Joined: 13 Mar 2011
Location: Hillsboro, IN
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Posted: 26 May 2011 at 9:27pm |
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The compression on those little guys is awful high to be giving them a wiff of ether. Would strongly recommend not doing that anymore. While you had the valve cover off did you check to see that everything in the valve train was moving correctly.
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 5113
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Posted: 26 May 2011 at 9:34pm |
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the labored down, backfired & quit is what concerns me. that sounds terminal. Test compression. And as stated above, compact diesels run a very high compression ratio, (21:1 or more) they don't like ether for sure! I might be picking up a 5030, so this has my attention. Good luck, Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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tjco99
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Joined: 26 May 2011
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Posted: 26 May 2011 at 10:56pm |
when I had the valve cover off everything was moving and it sounded normal. I will have to get a tester for compression, but when i had the injectors out i turned it over it blew out pretty good. would the glow plugs have anything to do with it? Thanks for the replies.
Oh yeah im done with ether!
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
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Posted: 27 May 2011 at 7:03am |
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Backfired? Maybe your timing slipped? Did you happen to notice the position of the valves when the injector shot?
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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tjco99
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Posted: 27 May 2011 at 10:55pm |
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they were all moving not sure exactly in what order they are supposed to do it. I took some other advice and pull started her. it started but had a real bad knock. so i shut her down and pulled back into garage. its tear down time.
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79fordblake
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Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Location: West Kentucky
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Posted: 27 May 2011 at 11:29pm |
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How long did it run? Maybe it was knocking from the ether you sprayed in it?
When I was in diesel school the teacher would use a running engine as an example and spray some ether in it, sounded awful. I never use ether, it slowly but surely kills the engine.
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tjco99
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 10:53pm |
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it sat for afew days so im sure the ether would have been gone considering it only got a quick shot. Everything looks good on the top end, just working on the bottom. will the oilpan separate from the block. it looks like the pan is connected to the plate at the back of the motor as one peice. thanks
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tjco99
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Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 8:09pm |
alright well if anyone can help me out on this or point me in the direction of an online service manual that would be great.
My problem is still the pan. After finding all the bolts, four on each side, two up front and two hidden nicely at the back about six inches up a crevice that was packed with years of dirt. It still will not drop! am I missing something here?
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tjco99
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Posted: 03 Jun 2011 at 9:12pm |
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found an online manual and it says "to remove oilpan engine has to be remove and front and rear plates unbolted from pan". I now need a lift......
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tbran
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Location: Paris Tn
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Posted: 04 Jun 2011 at 2:24pm |
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diesels really do not 'backfire' that is really a gas term - since it made a loud sound, either a valve hung open, or something reallly went bad. REmove injectors and connect line with injectors outside engine - do not put hands on tips and wear eye protection, then turn enging over - one can hear the whoosing sound of compression - the injector should spray at about the end of the whoosh - that is country boy troubleshooting - if intake , compression, power , exhaust doesn't happen in that order it will tell you what is wrong. Only thing I could suggest as in the past most do not know the fuel pump oil has to be changed at each engine oil change - no oil in the pump can cause gaulding......
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tjco99
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Posted: 06 Jun 2011 at 12:31am |
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What is gaulding? pan is off and i found both rod inserts from piston # 2 were gone and chewed up the crankshaft. taking it to a machine shop in the morning. hopefully it can be saved and all i need will be new inserts and a gasket kit.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
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Posted: 06 Jun 2011 at 6:53am |
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Sounds like you spun a rod bearing. You'll at minimum need the rods to be resized with that turned crank. The one that spun probably won't be reuseable. Why did it spin? Oil level too low? Oil pump weak? Oil pump pick up tube clogged?
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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tjco99
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Posted: 07 Jun 2011 at 12:04am |
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dropped the crankshaft, block, caps off at a machinist today. should have some answers in a few days. Im going to clean out the rest of the parts tomorrow and check out the pump and pickup. the oil level was fine but i do need to find the cause. this is a very good learning experience for me.
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tjco99
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Posted: 17 Jun 2011 at 11:50am |
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well I need two connecting rods oversize bearings and a head gasket, that my suplier cannot get. they can get me rings and all other gaskets
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tjco99
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Posted: 18 Jun 2011 at 4:34pm |
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Does anyone know where a guy can find a motor for this tractor? got prices for parts but its over 2000$, and they cannot be ordered. thinking used engine or new tractor. thanks
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tjco99
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Posted: 20 Jun 2011 at 10:15pm |
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I got a lead on a couple of 5020 tractors. Do they and the 5030 model match up parts wise? If I buy these would my 5030 be good for spare parts? thanks
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