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allis converted 
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Joined: 10 Jun 2011
Location: opolis, KS
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 Topic: concrete wheel weights
Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 6:20pm |
Does anyone have experience with concrete poured for wheel weights?
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 6:29pm |
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concrete is cheap and easy to make, but you dont get near the weight per volumn. Concrete is in the area of 125 pounds per cubic foot of material, and steel is about 4 times that much. YOu can use concrete, but hard to get adequate weight in a compact size.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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allis converted
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Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 9:19pm |
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I have checked all the local yards for some of the pie weights but havn't had any luck so far. I tried washer fluid but after a couple of flats I have to find a better alternative. One of the local yards suggested pouring some concrete, any ideas my 190xt just spins on top without a little help digging in.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 26 Aug 2011 at 10:21pm |
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If you have good tires, foam them. You'll never have a flat again and you will have weight in your tires.
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allis converted
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Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 6:57am |
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my wife works for a big name tire shop they told me at her cost no labor $1465.00 per tire and if I was going to do it then I might as well buy new tires since I only have about 40% tread left.
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scott
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Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 7:09am |
Someone on here has wheel weights for sale at least once a week. Have you scoured the for sale ads?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 7:27am |
IF your spinning, im assuming you dont havae a heavy implement on the back ? ONe method is to take a 55 gallon barrel and put a rod thru it for 3 point pins, then fill with concrete and pick it up the the 3 point hitch. If you using implements, then you have no option but to mount to the wheels or rims. The easiest way to custom fit concrete weights is to have the wheel/ tire off the tractor and laying down. Lay plastic over the rim and fill it full of concrete. You can put all thread thru a couple holes as mounts, and put 2-4 inch PVC pipe in for an axle hole or stud, etc. Stuff the PVC full of newspaper and hyou can poke it out easy later. Remember the back side of the rim. Sometimes it is larger area than the front and may workout better..
You can get extra weight by forming up past the rim with 2 x 6 or plywoold, etc and pour the concrete a few inches out past the rim. If you have an old hog panel or small pieces or rebar, you can put that in the concrete. Pour the rim 1/2 full and leave a few rods sticking up. Let it dry for 4 hours or more, then pour the top half of the concrete.... then set your 2 x 6 frame on top and pour a couple hundred pounds more on to. Pouring is stages helps ensure something dont shift and get away from you.
Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Aug 2011 at 7:31am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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allis converted
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Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 10:20am |
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I had a call from a salvage today they found some weights suppose to be factory allis but are circle weights solid one piece units but they are a foot thick I have never seen anything that heavy duty are they industrial or something else?
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Bill Long
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Posted: 27 Aug 2011 at 11:06am |
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One of our customers made concrete weights for a WD. When he was mixing the weights he added lots of junk so that the total weight was more than the concrete. However, they added width to the tractor since they stuck out so far. One time when he was crossing a county bridge the driver did not allow for the extra width and hit the edge of the bridge while traveling in a fast fourth gear. Broke the axle. That was a fun recovery with the county breathing down our neck to get it done.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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