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PeterinMN 
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Joined: 25 Aug 2025
Location: Albany, MN
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 Topic: D17 series 3 governor lower level compensating spr
Posted: 03 Sep 2025 at 8:56pm |
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Does anyone have a picture of the governor spring on a d17 series 3? located under the battery, where the throttle cable links to the governor rod. something doesnt seem to be working right with mine. Tractor doesn't want to idle down, and when I throttle up it immediately goes to high rpms. any advice ?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 03 Sep 2025 at 11:28pm |
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That spring isn't causing the problem. I think your governor weights have exploded.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 3:49pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
That spring isn't causing the problem. I think your governor weights have exploded. |
x2.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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PeterinMN
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Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 6:35pm |
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What makes you think so? I was just trying to see if I am possibly missing a part on the spring. One of the rod holders was being held together with baling wire so…keep in mind this was a working tractor on my family’s dairy farm 20 yrs ago so often function was more important than how something looked. I am now trying to piece it back together. Any help is appreciated .
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DrAllis
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Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 7:14pm |
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The function of that spring that sits under the gas tank is to make the throttle lever pull down easier when you get half-way down or more. It is an assist to make the linkage work easier. By your own description, the governor weights possibly have exploded. That spring under the gas tank can be missing completely and the engine will still idle down slow and not run away by over revving. My opinion is based on what you have told us and 50 years of D-17 experience.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 04 Sep 2025 at 9:15pm |
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gov wts and pins don't last forever
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 05 Sep 2025 at 9:21pm |
X3.....' happened to my D17 Series 2 a few years ago. Things do wear out.  |
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PeterinMN
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Posted: 19 hours 27 minutes ago at 9:13pm |
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I took my governor out and everything looked fine, weights are in place. I put it back together and now it won’t start because I think the timing is off. I followed the procedure outlined in the shop manual starting with finding TDC on the flywheel and positioning the distributor accordingly. No luck. Does the governor shaft and weights have to be put back in place the exact same way they were facing when I took them out? Does this matter? Thanks in advance.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 18 hours 10 minutes ago at 10:30pm |
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If you mark where the rotor is exactly, remove the whole assembly as you did, reinstall it with the rotor back in the same place and it will fire right up.
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HudCo
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Posted: 18 hours 4 minutes ago at 10:36pm |
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are you sure you are on tdc 1 not 180 off
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PeterinMN
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Posted: 12 hours 16 minutes ago at 4:24am |
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According to the shop manual, Top dead center on the flywheel is the solid line with the F on top of it. The F is used for a timing light. The line should line up with the notch on the tractor. At this point the rotor should be pointing at 1 cylinder’s spark plug. It should work, but it’s not it is backfiring.
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WF owner
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Posted: 11 hours 3 minutes ago at 5:37am |
I'm betting your timing is 180 degrees off (like HudCo said).
Since it's a 4-stroke engine, the engine only fires every other revolution.
When you are approaching TDC on #1 cylinder (between the compression and power strokes) you will feel compression if you put your finger over the spark plug hole. When you feel compression, start watching for your timing mark again. When you get to the timing mark, you need to take the distributor out, reset the distributor to the #1 position, then reinstall the distributor.
Edited by WF owner - 10 hours 56 minutes ago at 5:44am
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DrAllis
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Posted: 10 hours 3 minutes ago at 6:37am |
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TDC is the flywheel mark you are looking for thru the hole in the right side of the bell housing. F or F-25 or F-30 isn't TDC. The crankshaft pulley setscrew should be pointing dead straight down. Compression should be made on #1 when rotating the engine the way it normally turns. You could be on TDC #4 instead of TDC #1.
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