Did I ruin my B?!?

Another option for splitting the tractor is to use round bar stock (about 14" long) and thread one end so you can run the studs into the engine block.  Remove the bell housing to block bolts one at a time and install the studs.   Then remove the radius rod nut (under the bell housing).  Now you can start prying the bell housing off the block.  It will let you see everything much better than through the inspection hole and then decide if more support/room is necessary.  Be very careful if you split it without the studs.  You must support the engine as shown in Dick L's pix because the engine will want to tip over sideways on the front axle pivot.  

DON'T SPLIT IT USING A COUPLE OF FLOOR JACKS!!  As you separate the front section the weight of the engine will roll it over at the wishbone pivot and it will fall off the floor jack. Use a hoist as shown in Dick L's picture and suspend the front section by the top of the engine. Also a good idea to make a couple of wood wedges to jam in each side of the front axle pivot to keep it from rolling.  Be safe!!

I have a couple of channel irons with steel caster wheels on one end, but they're not really required. These channel irons are drilled so that they will bolt to the bellhousing/torque tube and touch the floor. When you unbolt the engine after taking the weight with the hoist you can separate the engine from the torque tube and the rearward portion will be sitting just fine on 4 points, the 2 channels and the rear wheels.

is it a possibility that the governor weight came loose and jammed the engine?   I think I've heard of such a thing before?

Hey guys.

  Gonna tow the allis back home today! My brother in law and I are going to tow it home with his truck about 5 miles. I'm kinda worried that I won't be able to figure out how to get it back into neutral when we get there, since I opened up that transmission box and all. Any good advice about that? Can I put the gears in place by hand, and then put the cover back on and know the gears will be okay when we pull it down the road. That worries me. Also I found a cherry picker I can use to split it with. I never figured that the thing could pivot in front and tip over. I'm glad you guys where here to stop me before I ended up with the motor on top of me. I can sure see now how that could happen. Also, do ya think that if I put too much grease up there when I greased the clutch underneath that ifin' some got into the clutch that could have caused the problem? That plate should stay dry shouldn't it? I can feel a little grease on it with dry fingers. However I don't see how that would make it lock up. It should slip then shouldn't it?
 
 Again, this site is pretty cool! I just found a sixty page Manual from the war department for the allis b & printed it up! Pretty good stuff.

Fellows correct me, but I thought ALL model B Allis' and especially "cranker B's" had a clutch lock out lever.  You should always use the clutch lock out when cranking a tractor.  This way you can check the engine for not being stuck without a second person on the clutch.    Additionally, in the deep winter, when the trans oil is like taffy, you can crank the tractor easier.  Even in neutral, the trans oil puts a strain on the crank.

Hi everybody, I have the clutch lock dodad and now I'm gonna use it every time.

  So the little B is home and safe and sound in the shed! Me and another guy split it Saturday morning. We put a saw horse under the back end, then found a nice spot in front to wedge a bar so the front end would have a hard time tipping over and locked that up with a couple of Cclamps. Then just a floor jack and block right on the oil pan an vuala!!! all we had to do was remove the fuel line and unpin the throttle. Really very simple, don't know why I was so shy about it all.

  Anyway, for those who may have wondered just what went wrong. One of the tiny cotter pins that holds one of the three larger pins that holds one of the three spring things in the clutch together had fallen out and so the clutch went kitty wampus and locked up. The pin was still inside! So we cleaned er all up, put back the pin, shut everything back up, and she started right up in two cranks after sitting all winter outside! Now, anybody got any toys I can buy?

I wondered a while back what happened to your tractor. Thanks for the reply and good job on the repair. Now for the bad news.I think you may have been bitten by the orange bug while working on this tractor and there is NO cure. You can ease the symptoms by buying more orange and you will need to buy on a regular basis to keep it at bay.

Anybody know how to post a photo on here? I'd like to show you all some pictures, but I don't see how.

My b was parked for 16 years when I got it. We winched it up on the trailer, when I split the tractor I found out why the clutch wouldn't disengage. The bell housing was packed full of mud dauber nests.!