New Member with HD 5G problem

   Hello everyone!  I just signed up...I have been reading the forums here quite a bit, and am very impressed with the knowledge and willingness to share that knowledge! 
   I inherited a HD 5G (serial 17928) from my father last year, and have been going through it to get it up in better shape...but I have just discovered a large (for me) problem...
After much research here on the forum, I decided to grease the truck rollers, idler, and outboard drive bearings...and while all the others were full of grease (thick...I pumped in OO corn head to push out as much as possible of the old)...both outboard final drive bearings were dry (or more like "old" grease that was almost dirt-like solid) and many small pieces of metal and a roller or two was dug out of the left side one...
I am pretty mechanically inclined, and have a fair shop...but not sure I am going to have the experience necessary for the repairs...I am going to need some advice and help along the way and would really appreciate anything anyone has to offer! I wanted to ask some questions before trying to tear into this project.  I guess I'll start with...Are all parts, seals, shims etc I will need available, and if so where?  (I am praying the shaft is salvageable)
Also, is it possible to do the repairs (assuming shaft is ok) without removing the track and truck frame?
Thanks in advance for reply's!

Thanks!  I think the problem is confined to the outer bearing only...I don't see any evidence of inner (inside track sprocket) problems.  Can I do the repairs on the outer carrier/bearings/housing without removing or relocating or cutting truck frame? 
I am thinking also that by serial number, this one is not the drilled axles?...has the 3/8 pipe plug for lube...removing this plug is what lead me to the discovery of the metal pieces.
Do you have someone or some place you can recommend for the link belt bearing? What about seals and shims I will need? Are those available? I am not sure about even starting to tear this down until I can source some parts.
I also read one of your posts  about having the outer bearing case machined and a steel insert for a different bearing installed?  (post was about a different machine, not an HD 5, but is this a possibility?) 

Thanks again for reply!
I suppose I have no choice but to disassemble and inspect...was just hoping to line up at least what I know is shot! The bearing is definitely a goner!  I will try and contact IVAN as recommended. Thank you!
The manual I have does not specifically address the removal/replacement of just the outer bearing housing....it is included as part of the removal for the sprocket. Can I remove just the housing/bearing/seal assembly or does the axle shaft/sprocket and all have to be removed as well?

I added to my 27 August, 2014 post so you can see the inside of the bearing cage. The available bearing has a larger outside diameter. The bearing housing can be bored to accept the larger diameter if you can not find the original bearing.

So I got the outer cage covers removed on both sides...
uploads/15072/47.JPG

And after a little cleaning...
uploads/15072/50.JPG

It appears that the axle may be ok. The bearing and nut obviously is not!  Now I have a question...since pulling the bearing cage from the axle with a puller involves a puller pushing the shaft thru while pulling on the outer cage housing, and the bearing has disintegrated and there is no mechanical connection between the inner race and the outer race...when I pull won't that then force the seal assembly and everything behind the inner race to press on the inner race remains only? And therefore damage or destroy what is left of the seal assembly?  Of course with the bearing being shot, maybe there is nothing left of the seal assembly anyway at this point?

The seal is inboard of the bearing. Remove the bolts holding the bearing cage to the truck frame. Raise the rear of the machine to take the weight off the bearing cage. Pull the bearing cage off the axle. The pictures I posted were from my HD6G. The axle on your HD5 is supposed to be the same as the early HD6. Your pictures look as if the bearing is smaller. The AC part number for the bearing on my HD6 is 080101. Is this the same number for the HD5??? The bearing cage cap on your HD5 has 5 bolts. There are 8 bolts on my HD6.

If I remember right, I got my new bearings from Thill Track and Tractor in Wisconsin.  If it wasn't there, then it was Draper Tractor in Washington state.  While your at it, put new seals in too.  But hang on for the cost of the bearings, they are a double cup and cone self-aligning bearing.  While you have your bearing housing off, make sure that the sprocket nut is tight, if I remember correctly the torque spec. is 1500 foot pounds.

Edited by wayneIA - 26 Feb 2016 at 12:30am

The spocket nut have a lock nut with 2 bolts you should clean the big nut maybe  they weld'it on sprocket and the big nut must have a shoulder like the right side for the ring seals and the spring ass, with boot and if you can removed the lock nut try to turned the big nut with out tension on sprocket and you will see if the shaft tread still good

Thank you everyone for the responses!  I will clean and check sprocket nut torque...good suggestion!
Dozer...the following image is one of two listed in my parts book...according to serial number, and by the look of the axle nut area, I believe this is what I have instead of the second type, which changed up after serial number 22985...and probably includes
your HD 6.  The part number for the bearing appears to be different, but sounds like Gemdozer and others agree they are the same bearing?



So, at this point, the left side axle nut does not show any of the three "pins" shown in my drawing...they may be broken off and I am just not seeing where they are...I will clean the nut up and look for that next...seems like they must be there if I truly have the first type...and by the looks of the right side, it seems to confirm that...however I have not pried to hard on the remaining seal assembly on the right yet...

Can someone confirm that the axle diameter at the seal surface is the same as the 2.500" Dozer has on the HD6? If I am going to make or find a sleeve to repair the seal surface, I need to make sure of the dimension.

Dozer, would it be possible to get some more information on how you built your jig for the die grinder? I have a older DUMAR toolpost diegrinder that mounts with a machined sleeve surface I intend to use...and of course I will be grinding inboard of the bearing surface whereas you were doing the thread area.  I will need to be able to adjust for both diameter and depth...My machinist skills are mostly at the hobbyist level but I believe I can hold tolerance on the grind to 0.010 or better. But if not, I am assuming that I can have a fairly large error tolerance on runout and taper since this is just a seal riding on it...and at low rotational speed.

the seal does not ride on the shaft. it sits against the nut, should have 3 holes that engage the end of the seal to the nut. glue seals it to the nut. then the stationary section sits in the bearing housing. like said earlier, think of a ceramic pump seal style. has a spring assembly that puts pressure on the seals to keep them together. I know general gear has new seals and nuts. best to have the nuts that have the shield on them to keep the stuff out of the seal. looks like you have the first style with the stationary side on the nut. the second style like the pic has the stationary side in the bearing housing. keep them greased but not too much pressure or the bellows will blow out. good luck and post a pic of the entire machine.

Dadsdozer...THANKS...that clears a lot up.  I didn't see your post until after I posted my last one...
Question...can I switch to the second type seals then and keep the stationary part in the housing? Other than the nut and the shield, are the rest of the seal parts identical and just directions are reversed? One of my housings has the inside "lip" where I assume the seal presses against almost completely worn away for about 1/3rd the diameter...if I can switch directions and put the stationary side of a seal there, I think I can salvage it! 

the metal ring you took off of the nut is part of the seal. the sealing is done by glue and a gasket on the nut on the sprocket. the other side of the seal is where the oil is sealed as it rotates. the other half of the seal is glued into the housing with a gasket to seal it to the housing and then the bellows has a spring in it that pushes the seal toward the other half. no part of the seal actually touches the shaft. it does not matter that it is chewed up, you do not need a sleeve. it is a different type than a lip seal. both ends of the seal have 3 pins that engage them or hold them in place. depending on which style is used is the direction the seal is installed. either direction uses the same seal to my knowledge. the sealing surfaces are polished to not allow any oil to get by. the housing you have may not be salvageable as it is worn too much to hold the sleeve. I see no pins or holes to put pins in to drive the seal. I would recommend changing the sprocket nuts to the style with the cage on it then the bellows end of the seal goes in there. you may be able to salvage the housing so the steel ring will hold into it. I changed my seal last year and I will look for pics I took and post. think of taking 2 coffee cans and holding them together end to end. the bottoms of the cans is where the oil is sealed and one of them rotates and the other does not. in hope this makes it a little clearer.

Chas55's
The seals on your HD5 are installed backwards of how we are accustomed to seeing them. Your axle nut has pins for driving the steel sealing ring. The pictures Dadsdozerhd5b posted shows the more common axle nut that has a cylindrical boot shield. This axle nut has 3 holes that drive the boot and spring assembly. The boot and spring assembly is glued to the inside of the axle nut. Booth use the FIRST TYPE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT SEALS. The second type seal is used on the 20 spline service replacement (second type axle) that you do not have.

Both axle nuts should be replaced with # 081369 that has the boot shield.

The bearing cages should be replaced because the portion of the cage that supports the seal is worn away. The replacement cage should have the (3) pins that hold the steel sealing ring and rubber gasket stationary.

As stated earlier the worn part of the axle does not have to be built up because it in not important to the lubrication seal.

to get the high torque is actually not too hard and should be out lined out in your manual.  On my 16  you release the opposite side steering clutch and put the trans in 1st gear.  turning the nut on the input shaft of the trans to a certain torque puts out the 2000lbs of torque needed to tighten the sprocket nut.  you just need to make a wrench to hold the big nut.

I sent you a quote on the seal and nut