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1961 D-15 Governor Bad?
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Gunn View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
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Points: 62 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 1961 D-15 Governor Bad?
    Posted: 28 Feb 2025 at 6:33pm
I think my governor may be bad, but I'm not quite sure what that means so I'm hoping you all here may be able to help diagnose the problem.

Since I've owned the tractor, I've always had throttle issues. I need to make large adjustments in the throttle to get the RPM up, and similarly to get it down. When a load starts to get on the tractor, I need to increase the throttle to keep the RPM up...something I don't think I should need to do. 

Last summer I replaced the "governor rod linkage spring" that attaches to the linkage and the manifold behind the carburetor. That didn't help out all and made the throttle control MUCH worse. 

So I broke out the manual and went about setting the idle and max speed adjustments (I had previously set the timing correctly). Adjusting the governor/throttle linkage properly, and the limit screw near the governor housing. 

While adjusting, I could not get to the necessary low idle RPM that the manual called for. I forget the exact numbers, but when I tried to go below 1,000 or so the tractor would just up and die. Like I hit a switch or something. And on the high end, I couldn't get it all that close to the max value listed. 

With all this in mind, does it sound like a governor issue? 

Thanks,

Tom
1961 D-15 Hi-Clearance
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 84747 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2025 at 6:38pm
tractor should not die if you go below 1000 RPM... the CARB THROTTLE STOP should set the low idle, no matter what the governor is doing....... sounds like you at least still have some adjustment problems..

if your saying the IDLE STOP can not be set below 1000 rpm, then possibly you have a vacuum leak letting air bypass the carb ?


Edited by steve(ill) - 28 Feb 2025 at 6:40pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Points: 53026 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2025 at 6:49pm
Before going into the governor, try bending the governor arm that crosses in front of the motor. It may just need to be spread or compressed.  Like spreading or compressing the legs of the letter A.  I usedta know which way did what, but my forgettery is much better than my memory...Wink
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Points: 21197 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2025 at 7:31pm
Try to avoid bending the governor arm that crosses over the front of the engine. Take the carburetor link rod and remove some of the kinks in it to make it LONGER. Ideal length with engine off and hand throttle wide open is the link rod just slips into the governor arm hole.
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Points: 4903 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2025 at 7:35pm
On the "SmallBlock" engines the correct length is just a bit too short when the throttle is set at the wide open position. Just opposite of the "BigBlock" (201-226) engines.
  The correct service manual will tell the full procedure.  
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Points: 3447 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2025 at 9:49am
To check the governor, let the engine warm up, then shut off - pull the throttle half open - unhook the rod to the carb. Now firmly grasp the carb butterfly control arm - the one the linkage was in - with the right hand - and the loose rod with the left. CLOSE THE CARB LINKAGE and have someone start the tractor. (you will have to fix the issue of not running below 1000 RPM) .  Now SLOWLY rev the engine up - as the rpms come up the rod should move the shut the carb down - as you lower the rpm the rod should smoothly now try to open it up.  This smooth operation will confirm the gov is working and if so, now the issue will probably be - as stated the length of the control rod. The length of the rod will have a lot to do with the response. You can experiment with the length and tune it to your likes. IF the governor 'hunts' it is probably due to wear in the linkage holes. The very small tension spring that hooks on the control rod takes the slop out and should not  pull the linkage open or close but be neutral at idle by hooking 90 degrees to the rod and pull straight up or down. 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Points: 62 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 6:28pm
Thanks for the info, all. It could be I may possibly have a carb issue with the low idle speed. But on the other end...

I have adjusted the rod as per the manuals. It is just just a bit short when the throttle is set at the wide open position. 

The advise on checking the governor is great; I will try that as soon as possible. In regards to the "very small tension spring", is this the spring that attaches to the carb linkage rod and goes rearward and hooks onto an exhaust manifold stud?  Just clarifying which one we're talking about. 

Thanks,

Tom
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 84747 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 7:13pm
yes.... the small spring stops the SURGE / HUNTING - ( if  yours does that) when you are idleing... It has no effect on the engine speed or governor operation..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Points: 21197 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 6:47am
The series 2 tractors do not have a surge spring on the left side that hooks on a manifold stud. They have a bumper spring built into the governor arm on the right side of the engine. Now, that I've checked AGCO parts the G-149  D-15 engines are the same way. No surge spring on the carburetor side at all.
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Points: 2844 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2025 at 2:42pm
Had my series 1 D 15 about 7 years. It's had a spring that runs from the carb linkage pulling carb to idle to a bolt on the block. I'd pretty much forgot about it until I saw this post. Guess it doesn't look O. E. Because it's not? Engine runs fine. Thanks
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Points: 62 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2025 at 7:13pm
Originally posted by ACinSC ACinSC wrote:

Had my series 1 D 15 about 7 years. It's had a spring that runs from the carb linkage pulling carb to idle to a bolt on the block. I'd pretty much forgot about it until I saw this post. Guess it doesn't look O. E. Because it's not? Engine runs fine. Thanks

That Governor Rod Linkage Spring (link here) is very mysterious. Can't be found in any of my manuals. On my 1961 D-15, the spring attaches to the rod and goes horizontal backwards to a manifold stud. According to the description from tbran above about it's use for surging only and being 90 degrees to the rod, it seems that possibly mine is not oriented correctly. Because mine is always oriented to attempt to close the carburetor. 

I also have the bumper spring on the governor housing itself as mentioned by DrAllis above. 


Edited by Gunn - 23 Mar 2025 at 7:16pm
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Points: 21197 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 2025 at 7:22pm
As I said, D-15's didn't have ANY SPRING on the carb rod side of the engine. After 60 years, someone who didn't know how to make a governor work right, may have added a spring to cover his inability to solve the problem. Governor linkage "synching" and proper bumper spring adjustments are kind of an art.

Edited by DrAllis - 23 Mar 2025 at 7:30pm
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Points: 2844 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 4:44am
Thanks Tom and Dr Allis. My spring does look like a farmer fix. I'll probably just leave it alone.
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Points: 21197 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 6:14am
An added-on spring that pulls the carb linkage towards the idle position, will probably reduce the maximum high idle speed. How much ??  depends on how stiff the spring is and how much tension it is applying. Seems like I remember you having a slow high-idle speed issue a couple years ago ?? Maybe it was someone else....
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Points: 2844 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACinSC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 7:50am
Good memory DR. You helped me and I replaced the governor plunger and spring. That increased the RPM
I doubt this spring is doing much. Looks stretched out. May take it off and see? Thanks
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Points: 62 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gunn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 2025 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

As I said, D-15's didn't have ANY SPRING on the carb rod side of the engine. After 60 years, someone who didn't know how to make a governor work right, may have added a spring to cover his inability to solve the problem. Governor linkage "synching" and proper bumper spring adjustments are kind of an art.

Well! That is great info. Which does make sense, seeing as I can't find any reference to this spring in the manuals. But I've heard others talk about it too, and then I found that one on the Steiner tractor website that I linked to, which does show it for a D-15. The spring I have looks just like that one, so I didn't think it was  farmer fix, but the attachment point to a manifold stud kinda did look like a farmer fix.  I've owned this tractor for 20+ years, but make that "fix"!

And, it wasn't me who you helped with the low high-idle speed, but I do indeed have an issue with the high idle speed. 

So first thing is to remove that spring and see how she operates. Then I'll do the test by disconnecting the governor linkage. 

Thanks!
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