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WilliamNEOH 
Bronze Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Beloit,oh
Points: 40
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 Topic: ca brakes
Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 3:47pm |
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I have to vent on this subject. I finally got the setscrew out and now fighting getting the drum off of axle. I have a piece of 3/8 all thread stuck now, was using it as a long u bolt to pull them off and the end bent out and now will not fit through the holes to get it out. once this is back together I'm sealing that torque tube up tight, you wouldn't believe the crap in there plus bad oil seals made quite the mess.
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2126
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Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 3:59pm |
I broke the drum on the first one I did, after that I just took my time and used heat and the puller I made. Believe me there has been a lot of blood, sweat and tears spilt because of that design. Hang in there, good luck.
Leon B
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 4:21pm |
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Yep, been there done that. Last one I did, I made a puller from heavy angle iron and plate and long bolts thru the plate into the drum. The puller frame is kinda square and fits over the final opening and the bolts go thru it into the threaded holes in the drum. Applied penetrating oil and heat and the drum came off easy. No more beating and/or breaking up an old drum for me.
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jrs
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Joined: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Illinois
Points: 4
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Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 10:41pm |
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Haven't been there in a while. Would a harmonic balancer puller and long bolts work here? And yes, remember the heat! And a lot of patience.
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WilliamNEOH
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Beloit,oh
Points: 40
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 8:36am |
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Heat is next, there are tappe holes in the drums? Thats how much crud in there, I'm not seeing them.
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jrs
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Joined: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Illinois
Points: 4
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 8:49am |
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Can't remember if they're tapped. Can you get a nut on the back side for the bolts to go through? Without "being there", this would be my best guess. As I remember, there are two holes in these things. Or you could drill and tappe your own. Try getting as close to the hub as possible if you do this, and go for the three bolt option available on the puller. Gives you more stability and strength. Watch heating close to these bolts though, it's possible to affect their strength this way.
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 8:52am |
Those brake drums are pretty fragile. I made a puller using big all thread and a drilled out brake disk to pull against. Once you get all the trash and goo out of the way you can actually finger big washers and nuts under the drum to thread the all thread into. Get the hub of the drum hot while under pressure and they usually pop pretty easy. It really helps if the finals are off the tractor and supported so the drum is horizontal.
Some folks like driving the axle or pushing it down and out of the drum. I tried that twice and busted the drum both times. I was trying to salvage some C finals for useable parts so it wasn't a real big deal.
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 8:56am |
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There are no tapped holes in the drum. I know how that story got started but anybody who has pulled a B/C or CA drum knows better.
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Charlotte, Mi
Points: 5058
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 9:43am |
On my G, may be the same drum as B & C, there were 2 drums used. Cast iron, which has 2 tapped holes, 1/2-13 I think, or steel, which has key holes.
I broke an axel on my G, it had steel drums. I made a puller using 1/2 threaded rod and nuts in the key holes, a heavy bar and 1/2" fine threaded bolt to press against the axel.
We heated it enough to scorched paint on the axel housing. The key holes sprung. And the threads on the fine threaded bolt stripped.
The axel was broke anyway so I put a cut off wheel in my die grinder and cut the axel off inside the break drum and and drilled it out enough that the axel collapsed enough for drum to come off.
I've heard the most people just destroy the drum and put a new one on.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5087
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 10:36am |
An easy job made hard by over thinking it. Once the set screw is removed which is accessed from the hole in the bottom and the plate cover is removed find a press and and push it out. After it is under a press it is only minutes until the pinion shaft and axle is in your hands along with the undamaged drum. 
Edited by Dick L - 14 Mar 2010 at 10:38am
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Rayhowling
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Joined: 02 Jan 2010
Location: Ont.
Points: 178
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 3:21pm |
I rebuilt the brakes, rebuilt hand clutch, new brake drum on left side about 7 years ago. Back in the 70's we used to run a Haban corn sheller with the CA and when I rebuilt the brakes there was so much Bee's wings [we in Canada call it Reddog] in there that I took truck inner tube and cut stripes to cover the holes in the tube where the hand clutch is and tied them in place with snap ties. they are still on today and it keeps out the dirt.
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Ken in Texas
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
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Posted: 14 Mar 2010 at 10:57pm |
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If you don't need too or think you need too change the seal behind the brake drum leave it in there and snake in new shoes and linings. Doing it Dicks way tears up the seal when the key rips thru it on the way out. I don't have Dicks luck. I made a press with a jack to do what Dicks red press does and busted both break drums I tried to get out and save. I don't think they sit flat enough in the housing to keep from breaking if they don't come loose easy. They ain't all that tuff. Win some. Loose some.
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