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WC engine Built to WD45

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deanvanommen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deanvanommen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WC engine Built to WD45
    Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 12:57pm
Can a early WC engine be built to a WD-45 by changing crank pistons and rods? I have seen some puller tractors that have used the WD45 crankshaft but was not sure what rods and pistons they used?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 1:03pm
WD-45 crankshaft (1/2" more stroke) WD-45 pistons (and new sleeves) WD-45 manifold and carburetor will get you WD-45 HP.  Cylinder head is a little different (taller) but that isn't a HP issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deanvanommen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 1:06pm
Will I need WD-45 Rods as well?
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 1:43pm
no but i think 45 rods are precision vs shimmed like WD-WC. A little handier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 1:57pm
Don't think you can stick WD-45 pistons in an old WC/WD sleeve. When the piston hits the old sleeves ring ridge, you'll break the top ring or the piston itself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 3:42pm
Also need a WD/WD-45 governor spring to increase engine top speed about 100-RPM's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 9:38pm
How early is the WC engine serial number? I have read that the first couple of years of production had smaller diameter rod journals. I haven't been able to find much documentation about this but I probably just don't have an old enough parts book. I have seen different bearing part numbers.

Were the rods physically different or did they manage to just change bearing insert thicknesses?
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Oct 2024 at 10:07pm
Aha, I did enough digging and was able to find it in the AGCO parts books. Looks like anything before engine # WC-13665 had the 2" diameter bearings/rods.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred in Pa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:36am

     WC block is too narrow for WD 45 crank and rods to clear , even a early WD block is too narrow .
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 7:19am
I'm afraid I'd have to disagree with that. The latest WD block is actually a little better than a WD-45 block for 5+ inch strokes. My puller WD block had a 5.375" stroke in it without any issues. Never seen a WC block that wouldn't take a 45 crank, unless you are talking about that very early WC engine with the 2 inch rod journals, of which I have never seen one.

Edited by DrAllis - 31 Oct 2024 at 8:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 9:00am
Ignorance is bliss apparently. When I rebuilt the engine in the NF 45, didn't have a good 45 block so I used a WD block. Tractor it came out of was around 70xxx serial, I think. Like Doc mentioned, pullers look for WD blocks in a certain serial range.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred in Pa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:20am

     It is what it is , had a Customer bring me a WD engine and a 45 crank , rods and pistons  ,was not enough room in  that  EARLY WD block for crank to turn around with rods on it. He got a later WD block and there was enough room .    


Edited by Fred in Pa - 31 Oct 2024 at 11:26am
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deanvanommen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:47am
Thank You all for the insight and tips. My Engine S/N is W32781K. The tractor belonged to Grandpa and never left the farm, so I know it is original. Has been parked for 39 years, my fault, but I wanted to rebuild and perhaps upgrade the engine. Not sure I could hand crank a WD-45 engine if I built it. It needs an overhaul since the compression is 30-60 at best. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 3:52pm
Thinking back to the early/mid 1980's, I installed a WD-45 crank in a 1939 or 1940 styled WC. I wasn't too keen on the idea, as it had a long plate affixed to the block on the carburetor side from getting froze up one time and cracking the block. Someone had made a long plate with a gasket and drilled a dozen or more 1/4" holes and threaded the block to accept them. The customer insisted on using that block, so we did. Nothing fancy. M & W pistons and sleeves from a WC/WD combined with the WD-45 crank, we had 220-240 psi cranking compression. Ran good and never had any issue with the patched block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred in Pa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 4:58pm

   My customer was told by many it would work ,he came to my shop so I could show him NOT in this block .There is always a first for everything .


Edited by Fred in Pa - 31 Oct 2024 at 4:59pm
He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 5:29pm
does the "FIT" depend on which connecting rods you use ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:15pm
Originally posted by Fred in Pa Fred in Pa wrote:


   My customer was told by many it would work ,he came to my shop so I could show him NOT in this block .There is always a first for everything .
 Maybe your customer should have gone to someone that knew how to put in in. I've known of many that have done in. Some were not even professional mechanics.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jvin248 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 6:34pm
.

Upgrade the manifold, 10+15% boost? It's important and an easy mod.
Add that governor spring for a little boost.

Just keep the engine otherwise stock. Do farm work with it regularly.

Interesting mod on a couple of B's and WD for otherwise stuck engines: harbor freight preditor engines. If your engine is stuck.

.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:22pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

does the "FIT" depend on which connecting rods you use ?
I'm going out on a limb here but I think the rods are alike being that the rod isn't the problem. Those early blocks must be narrow. Wonder if they took different pans?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct 2024 at 11:25pm
Originally posted by deanvanommen deanvanommen wrote:

Thank You all for the insight and tips. My Engine S/N is W32781K. The tractor belonged to Grandpa and never left the farm, so I know it is original. Has been parked for 39 years, my fault, but I wanted to rebuild and perhaps upgrade the engine. Not sure I could hand crank a WD-45 engine if I built it. It needs an overhaul since the compression is 30-60 at best. 
Hand cranking a 6.5-1 WD45 compression would be tuff enough let alone some 7.25-1 D17. Unless you're trying to make a puller it would be more reasonable to just rebuild it as stock WC..


Edited by SteveM C/IL - 31 Oct 2024 at 11:28pm
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