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nanuk 
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Joined: 22 Aug 2013
Location: Saskatchewan
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 Topic: Roosa pump leaking
Posted: 23 Oct 2024 at 9:29pm |
so, my fuel pump on my 7060 is leaking
it purges air as I prime, then a frequent drip turned into a significant drip on my last trip home
I've looked into the seals, and how to replace them
something is confusing me, and without taking things apart, I'd like to get some info first.
can I tighten up the screw that holds the levers in place? would that put pressure on the washer/seal possibly tightening in up and reducing the leak?
if not, how does one put pressure against the washer/seal to get a good seal?
I'd like to be able to reduce my leak for a few weeks, so I won't need the tractor over winter, if I decide to pull parts off.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Lynn Marshall
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 23 Oct 2024 at 10:18pm |
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Is this leaking at the fuel shutoff lever?
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nanuk
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Location: Saskatchewan
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Posted: 24 Oct 2024 at 9:23am |
Yes
started as a small drip
late baling season, I started to have pulsing, I believe due to air ingress.
When I'd prime it, I could hear a tiny hiss coming from the area of the shut off.
it didn't seem to change much, until the last time I drove it. Drove it home 1.75 hours. There was fuel along the side of the engine/frame and batteries were wet.
when I shut it down, I primed it, and could hear hissing and fuel came out the shut off lever area.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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nanuk
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Location: Saskatchewan
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Posted: 24 Oct 2024 at 6:48pm |
Ok, I just got off the phone with ' im4racin' and he walked me through the system
it would appear my understanding was off a bit.
the screws that hold the levers on have nothing to do with the sealing and pressure applied to the seal.
so, I for sure need the source a seal (or two) to replace the leaking one
I don't want to remove the pump, so the engine side one is going to stay where it is for now. I remember someone (Lynn Marshall?) mentioning his special tool to remove the parts so the back unit can be removed/replaces so a new seal can be installed.
I'll look into that, but for now, the outside one is my biggest concern at the moment.
Thanks for everyone's input on this. I sure do appreciate it.
and thank you 'im4racin' for contacting me.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 24 Oct 2024 at 8:56pm |
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The seals, as you refer to them, are nothing more than O-rings. Removing the top cover from the pump is required. Hopefully, you won't twist off any of the cover bolts. You should probably replace the top cover gasket while doing this. These parts can be found at most any diesel service station.
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 7:03am |
thanks Lynn Marshall
my local diesel shop has nothing.... doesn't know what my pump is, and cant find any reference to it with their supplier
I'm going to AGCO, and keeping my fingers crossed they have some.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Allis dave
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 7:26am |
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You need to find Ed Guenther on here. He rebuilds these pumps and will have the parts you need. I would seriously consider removing the pump and having it rebuilt but I understand that may not be feasable for you.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 7:27am |
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I just noticed that you're in Canada. That may make it harder for you te receive from us US based folks like Ed.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 7:32am |
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thanks for the plug Dave, but I don't get involved in do it yourself jobs, or selling pump parts, I'd never get the paying customer stuff done, especially across the border. Those are just 2 orings 17438, about $2 each, any good fuel injection shop will have them, remind them it's a stanadyne dm, they may not know the roosamaster name, but id go somewhere else if that was the case. You are just buying time as every other oring in it will begin leaking, but it will slow this leak down for a while.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 8:04am |
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The pump shop that didn't "know" what your pump was, probably doesn't know who Fred Flintstone or George Jetson are either.....
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 8:07am |
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or even what an Allis Chalmers is lmoa!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 8:39am |
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The two Orings individually from AGCO are 74369878. The seal kit for the whole pump is 74061643, of which these Orings would be included.
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nanuk
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Location: Saskatchewan
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 11:38am |
Dr Allis, I was thinking of getting the whole kit from an AGCO dealer
When I contacted them about the bushings for the clutch, they didn't have any couldn't source any, but found ONE at another dealer
when I talked to them about O-rings, they had none, couldn't source them, and couldn't find another dealer who had them.
This time, I'm contacting a different dealer that has the ability to E-commerce stuff... seems they have access to different sources.
I sure get frustrated at how up here, dealers want to sell, but provide zero maintenance.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 11:41am |
[QUOTE=injpumpEd]... Those are just 2 orings 17438, about $2 each, any good fuel injection shop will have them...
^^^THAT^^^ right there is the problem. Up here, finding a "Good" shop is really hard to do
my local diesel pump shop is busy as hell, but their clients seem to be commercial duty large trucks. I guess those trucks all have proprietary pumps??
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AC7060Pd 1975
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 1:24pm |
So, here's where I'm at so far:
I removed the shut-off lever assembly/spring stuff (No23/74054594), leaving only the shaft assembly (No23/74054845)
with some judicious tapping with a "BMF900" I was able to get all three cap screws loose, only twisting the head off one
the corrosion was significant, but I was able to get the cover (No1/74051002)loose from the last one, and off. Then the stud that was left was easy to remove.
should be easy to source a replacement cap screw, even though it won't have a hole for the wire seal.
once the cap was removed, I was able to remove most of the fuel in the chamber.
looking inside, I saw the C-clip which isn't shown in the parts diagram.
I removed this carefully.
Then I started to slide the fuel shut off shaft assembly out slowly watching was was moving and what wasn't.
I found that the O-ring was no longer there.... like GONE.
now, I have a question: does the O-ring sit inside the housing where the assembly goes through, or does it sit against it, in the shallow bevel, and that thin "washer" No31/74053375 just holds it against the housing?
I do not see anything inside that could be parts of an O-ring. After coffee, I'll check again, but at the moment, I can't seem to see where it might sit, or where it might be
on the shut off assembly that I removed, there is a "Ring" but it is steel, I assume this is just to allow the whole assembly to rotate and not wear on the housing.
the parts diagram would lead me to believe the O-ring sits outside and against the housing... but I'm not sure
need to do some more research.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 1:50pm |
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The oring sits in a groove in the shaft, it may be hard as a rock so you won't realize it's an oring, which is why it's leaking. Now all the rest of them will be just like it, and they aren't user serviceable. The clip is the shut off cam, so make sure it's put back correctly.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 4:34pm |
Hey Ed
Yeah... ROCK hard! at first I thought it was metal... when I used a pick, I realized it was NOT metal, but perhaps some form of intergalactic material.... I had to cut it to get it out
As for the rest of them, I think I can get the back one on the throttle assembly, but anything inside is out of my reach.... and as you know, my options for Diesel shops is very limited.
So after having some coffee in me, I took a real good look at it all, and realized my error.
I found a kit of O-rings, and found one to fit, that just was able to go in the housing, and I put it all together.
I made sure the C-clip functioned properly, then put the cap on it, gently tightening the two remaining hex head cap screws.
primed it up, and no noise or leaks fired it up, and no leaks (the cap didn't start leaking until I ran it hard)
hooked up a cultivator, and did a couple rounds in my small field. barely any leaks from the pump. So far, I'm happy with that.
Now, I have a majour fuel leak from some 1/4" plastic hoses that run from the RH side to the LH side over the top of the Tranny under the cab. I "Think" this may be an overflow for my injectors???
I'm not sure, but looks like one of the hoses is melted through and a second one is damaged
I'm not sure why it would have gotten that hot under there without flames.
it's always something.
Thanks for ALL the help.
this place is an amazing resource!
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AC7060Pd 1975
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 4:44pm |
Ok, regarding my plastic lines
Parts book seems to lead me to the line from LH Main tank to "Drip Manifold" and LH main tank to fuel filter
I assume these are return lines. Looks like I'll need to source some rubber gas lines, and splce them in to the damaged area.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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im4racin
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 6:11pm |
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It’s a 5/16” hard plastic fuel line. Can be replaced with the plastic line available at Napa or with rubber hose. I have done both?
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nanuk
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 6:15pm |
im4racin, Thanks
It is not a pressure line, right? Just a return line?
should be easy to splice in a piece of fuel line.
Your advice on my pump issues was a BIG help. I sure appreciate it!
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AC7060Pd 1975
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im4racin
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Posted: 25 Oct 2024 at 8:52pm |
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Yes just a return line
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