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Allis 5020 Simplicity 9523 fueling questions |
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curvecrazy
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Aug 2010 Location: Buffalo NY Points: 6 |
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Posted: 03 Feb 2023 at 1:17pm |
Hi everyone. I haven’t posted before but lurked and read. I thought that I would ask some basic questions here that would benefit myself and others in (no doubt) similar situations.
For the record.. I private messaged Ed already, this same document below…And possibly he could respond here to give others an idea of costs etc on these ALLIS, Simplicity, Hinemoto, Massey and Deutz tractors, which we all know are in the 5020 and 5030 Allis designations. fwiw. There were 8500 units of the S126 powered versions supposedly made/sold. So there’s a lot of these still out there. I’ve seen them with as much as 12K hours listed on the hour meter, for a municipal mow unit. So they’re capable of longevity. No way to know how much work was done to such a unit. Parts are obviously hard to come by… machines to use with care and not abused, for sure, because breaking it could be the end of it… Duly noted. My message to Ed is below and anyone caring to opine please feel free. Hi Ed.
You seem to be regarded as the forum expert on injection. So I thought that I would ask a few questions, as I know little about this. My tractor (1980ish Simplicity 9523) runs. But it’s not seeming to be running optimally. It’s a 2 cylinder, with an internally deteriorated exhaust, so it’s pretty loud and clattery. Purchased in 2010 with 580 hours. It’s got 980 hours now. It’s been run consistently while I have had it since 2010 timeframe. Mostly mowing grass with mid mount mower deck, but also rear mounted PTO snowblower. And I fabbed up a Meyer’s plow mount too. Mostly just lite homeowner use. Guy before me used it for mowing, and it’s got the two indents on the upper front hood which was probably a pivoting attachment that got raised too high? Anyway. I’m having some issues with cold starts producing mix of white/ smoke and black smoke just initially. So I ‘m thinking that the glow plugs may need a check. I have always applied them to start the tractor cold, but I have never checked them, as far as proper function. I see that they’re apparently not expensive from NAPA, so I should probably just replace them on general principle. They look original. There’s a sort of whining I hear (also just lately) on initial startup, and it’s like it’s coming from the fuel pump? I have been keeping oil in the fuel pump, but it might be leaking out, because it always seems to be low? But it’s kind of a goofy setup on these with a high level and a drain. And it’s always a bit of a mystery, as the oil doesn’t seem to just fill the space and indicate drainage at the weep hole like easy like so? If that makes sense?? On cold start, the white smoke clears up quickly and (2-3 seconds probably?)and them it’s running on both cylinders black smoke for another second or so, slightly more time of this in the cold till the cylinders start to warm? During regular running, once warm, it’s seeming to have very “lite” smoking going on. Like the exhaust is almost clear but a slight brown haze? Not sure if that’s normal or not. I’m not super familiar with diesel tractors. I’d almost get the sense like one cylinder is having slight injector issues? Or possibly injection timing is off due to wear of a nozzle creating delayed “pop”? Thus that bit of smoke? Or who knows? Maybe it’s just dripping fuel or streaming (to some extent?) instead of spraying cleanly? If, during regular running, when fully warm, I hit the gas at the foot pedal, it will send out an obvious puff of black smoke. So… I guess that I’m wondering if the injectors can be looked at, and whether just nozzles can be replaced. I see online they’re talking about disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning in carb cleaner fluid, and possibly replacing the nozzles, to refurbish. And I’m wondering how expensive it is to just replace the injectors? Or maybe they can’t be replaced now or substituted? Or rebuilt? I’m sure that I would have to remove them and have them checked to know for sure. And obviously a compression check would be in order to determine basic engine health. I did adjust the valves at one point thinking the clattery might be due to valve adjustment. Didn’t really make any difference. Peace of mind. I have never checked the timing on this tractor, the injection pump is mounted with two bolts and from reading I understand that it rotates, and there’s some marks needing centered. Also wondering what typical service life would be on the KIKI injection pumps. And if it’s still functioning, is that something that you could do a tune up on… say replacing O rings gaskets etc.. without say a full rebuild? And what costs are involved? |
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4917 |
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I'm no expert on these tractors, Though I have rebuilt a few of the injection pumps and injector sets. Now, it sounds like you could have a bad glow plug. Would not be a bad idea to get the injectors out and sent to a knowledgeable shop for rebuild. I don't know of any "new" injectors available. Might be some "remans" out there, but just get them rebuilt by a local pump shop, or send to me if you don't have one. If the pump works, run it. Keep the oil level right, run fresh clean fuel, it'll run a long time. I've had people put gas in these compact tractors too. They run poor then. I've not experienced timing the pump. You need to get a manual or someone else may chime in. I have 3 of these, and all 3 have different attitudes about starting lol! Good luck, great little tractors.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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curvecrazy
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Aug 2010 Location: Buffalo NY Points: 6 |
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Thanks for the insights. You have three of these? Wow.
If I understand you correctly, these injectors are readily rebuildable by any knowledgeable diesel shop? Or would it be more specialized? I mean? What I see is very old low technology injectors here, whereas the injectors of today seem in a different plane of technology and design. It appears, even from parts schematic, that these S126 injectors can be disassembled down to parts and presumably cleaned (intelligently of course) and refreshed. It’s been stated on the net, that replacing the “nozzles” has you back to as good as new! Now I am not knowledgeable on this, but it seems that “that nozzle” is critical, as the “fit” there is critical, and that’s where it’s specified that “wear can happen”. I’m not really sure how much “wear” can happen in under 1000 hours of “use”. But it seems that it’s understood that they can get “carbon buildup”, especially if the nozzle wears and there’s blowback into the injector causing carbon to build in there. I see that there’s used rebuilt replacements available online in the $125 range with $60 core fee. I’m not sure who locally could properly rebuild these, or at what cost. I guess it’s considered not a big thing in diesel land to take them to get pop tested and pattern checked etc. They certainly don’t look super complicated and high tech, so the $125 cost for reconditioned seems a bit steep. The nozzles appear to be available, even on ebay, and not expensive. But I could be wrong on that, not having the injectors in my hands and the nozzles to ascertain correctness. I guess any established tractor supply dealership could point me in the direction of properly sorting used injectors and options to address that effectively. It looks like the 5015, 5020 and 5030 Allis variants all used the same injectors… and I suspect fuel injection pumps too. And the whole range of equivalent Hinemoto, Simplicity, Deutz Allis etc.. Strangely, it appears that the Massey Fergusson 210’s used the same injectors but different injection pumps. Not sure what that’s about. I obviously need to remove my injectors, inspect for obvious buildup and possibly configure something to spray test them directly via the injection pump itself. If that’s possible with those hard lines. It might also be possible to remove the glow plugs and spin the motor with those out and observe the compression fuel blast that comes out the two holes for equal comparable to start. If one side isn’t atomizing the fuel effectively, I would guess that that side is going to have more wet spray wetness etc vs a properly atomizing injector. I’m assuming that the glow plugs extend into the cylinder, (which?) maybe they don’t.. They could be inside the cylinder head itself just heating the cylinder head from within. Unscrewing one will determine that quickly enough. And that could show obvious deficiencies (No?) before even removing injectors. I’m not excited about removing injectors. In fact, that might be a stupid idea. The tractor runs well enough as is. Disturbing things that needn’t be disturbed might be a dumb idea. I’m not getting oil contamination or anything like that. I could probably (probably will) address glow plugs by just loosening and cleaning my connections for starters. That could address the starting situation with one cylinder not initially firing, right there. And in general running theres just the faintest brown haze at 2500rpm steady mowing rpm. Probably normal and inconsequential. Interesting that you have three and they all start uniquely. I have two.. my dad bought one after mowing for about 5 minutes with mine! His starts different than mine too. If I remember right, less smoke on startup. They say that “timing” can make a significant difference in how these start and how they run. And it’s somewhat ambiguous, because timing that apparently has the machine starting great, may have the machine not running overall as well as timing where the machine wasn’t starting quite happy. Then it seems that you want your injectors to be matched for “pop”, because it’s said that if they’re not, that it has the effect of retarding the timing of one injector vs the other and you’ll have possibly timing delay by nature of that alone. It’s said that they can shim the springs in the injectors to match them, and it’s been said that once that was done, the injectors rebuilt(nozzles etc) and properly matched, that the tractor ran like never before! Maybe someone can clue me in here on what I should be expecting for costs to just inspect, test, optimize two injectors? Is that something that any (formal) diesel shop would be able to do? Is there a preferred provider? And what is the actual cost to rebuild one of these KIKI injection pumps if need be? It’s currently functioning and no seized issues etc… I see $1000 listed on the internet with $600 core charges. I wouldn’t expect too many opting for such an expense on a 40+ year old tractor.
Edited by curvecrazy - 04 Feb 2023 at 1:25pm |
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curvecrazy
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Aug 2010 Location: Buffalo NY Points: 6 |
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Oh… and per the comment on clean fuel. Please elaborate. Is there more to know about fuel than might be immediately obvious? It’s going through, first a fuel screen at the tank, then through a formal (large) fuel filter canister. The casual observer would conclude, that, by design, the above system removes any problem sized contaminants. Is that an incorrect assumption? This is assuming that there’s no water contamination in the fuel right? No signs of water in the fuel bowl.
Can “fuel”, thus prescribed(filtered and water free), wear a fuel pump internally? Is that an issue then with old fuel etc? Does diesel have lubricity that’s say “lost over time”? What actually causes wear in a fuel injection pump? Especially if it’s internally lubed.. which these units are….
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