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wjohn 
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1998
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 Posted: 13 Feb 2023 at 9:25pm |
 CTuckerNWIL wrote:
IBWD MIke wrote:
John, the diamond dresser I used the most was pretty simple. Just mounted in a small crs block. Stick it on the magnetic chuck and dress the wheel. Have seen a few surface grinders that had a dresser on the machine but only used one once or twice.
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My thoughts exactly. I did a LOT of grinding over the years, mostly by using a block of steel with a diamond on it, to dress the wheel from the magnetic chuck.
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Thanks! I did look around and found some of the type you described on Grainger and McMaster-Carr, and they're not too terribly expensive. I would have to come up with something different if I ever needed to dress the side of the wheel for an operation other than surface grinding, but that may never happen.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1998
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Posted: 16 Dec 2023 at 12:29pm |
Getting back to this thing, and hopefully back on to the WD.
Getting to the shaft-side bearing has been fun. The pulley fought the whole way off the shaft, and no room to get a puller on the end of it. I was eventually able to work it off. Managed to sneak a vise in there to hold onto the shaft and was able to knock the bearing locknut loose. I maybe should've pulled the motor out, but that thing has to be heavy and I wasn't excited about wiggling it out of the base of the machine.
Turns out the bearing locknut and washer are the same size as the one on my Super M's M & W hand clutch, so I'll order some for spares.
Still have to get the actual bearings out to clean, inspect, and hopefully they are good to regrease and reassemble. I'm worried I may have to take the ends of the motor housing off to make this happen.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 81302
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Posted: 16 Dec 2023 at 4:58pm |
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john... i dont know the condition of the bearings, but you might be able to use an air blow gun and blow the old grease out between the balls... Pump some new in and roll the motor around to distribute... them old bearings are TOUGH and last forever.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1998
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Posted: 17 Dec 2023 at 8:46am |
Steve, I think that is my plan now. I started to put a bearing puller on one end to pull a bearing off, and then got to thinking about how I'd get the bearing drawn back on there without putting the shaft in a press... I'd probably have to clamp the shaft solid again, and hope I could pull it on with one of those locknuts. I'd buy a proper wrench from SKF but they're all side access so in order to get the wrench in there, I'd have to pull the shaft out.
This bearing on the non-drive end of the shaft feels very good. I'm going to protect the inside of the motor with some plastic or similar so I can spray brake cleaner in the bearing to wash out the old grease that's left, then repack with some Mobil Polyrex EM that I bought specifically for electric motor bearings.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1998
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 10:04am |
The bearings were both in great shape. Cleaned them out as best as I could and repacked with the new grease. When I get a VFD ordered and can run it, I'll pump a little more grease in and open the lower grease plug and run the motor for a bit. There's a pretty good guide from Mobil on electric motor lubrication here that answered my questions about how to grease this style of bearing cap with two plugs: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-businesses/industrial/lubricant-expertise/resources/electric-motor-bearing-lubrication
After cleaning up the shaft, key, and keyway, the drive pulley went on much easier than it came off. I also replaced the key for the power table feed drive pulley and now there is zero play between the pulley and shaft... So I think I just need to buy another flat belt if I want that feature to work. I'm guessing I'd only use that occasionally on cylinder heads or larger items like that, but I think it could be handy.
I just need to keep chipping away at cleaning and assembling the grinder now. I also need to run my conduit and wiring for the 220V and decide on a VFD. For this size of motor (1.5 HP) cheap VFDs are only ~$100.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 3741
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Posted: 24 Dec 2023 at 4:02pm |
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Well, you're making progress, that's always a good thing.
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