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WD45 carb leaking raw gas into breather tube |
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dave_f_reese
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Jun 2024 Location: Scranton KS Points: 3 |
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Posted: 19 Jun 2024 at 3:23pm |
My 1956 WD45 is allowing raw gas into the air breather tube when I crank the engine. I had the carb (Marvel Schebler TSX561) was rebuild by a local shop and I had a couple of others verify it was properly rebuilt. The needle and seat have been checked and don't allow fuel to leak to leak by. Although I've not found anyone close by who professes to be knowledgeable of the older tractors, one theory floated was a sticking engine valve is the cause. Has anyone else had a similar issue? I'm beginning to get discouraged.
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11818 |
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The first thing I would check is the floats. Make sure they are not taking on fuel which makes them sink. An easy way to tell is remove them and give them a gentle shake. If you hear fuel sloshing inside one or both, there's your problem. Another thing that happens is sometimes the needle valve may hang up in the seat bore and do the same thing as a sinking float would do, and that fill the fuel bowls up to the top. When I rebuild Carburetors for my customer's, I always take a piece of super fine steel wool and burnish the needle valve. If there's a little nick or spot on the needle, that could hang the needle up and allow the bowls to overflow. Another issue is dirt in the tank.Always make sure the tank is super clean. The Viton tip on those needle valves work great when they seat, but if a minute piece of dirt gets stuck to that Viton, its like glue. The needle will not seat and fuel will creep through. Another problem with a fresh rebuild, is when opening up the petcock on the sediment bowl, only open it up half way or less. Sometimes what may happen if the float bowls are empty, and fuel comes rushing in, the floats could be slammed up and stick. This will also overflow the fuel bowls causing the fuel to run out. If you open the valve up just a little, get the engine running and then open the petcock the rest of the way. This gives the floats a chance to level out. HTH Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
Edited by Steve in NJ - 19 Jun 2024 at 3:55pm |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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dave_f_reese
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Jun 2024 Location: Scranton KS Points: 3 |
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Appreciate the reply, but unfortunately the float is good and the needle has been replaced and verified. Also, last year I removed the fuel tank, cleaned it and used Northern Fuel Tank Liner so rust no longer seems to be an issue. When I get a chance to reinstall the carb this weekend I'll follow your suggestion to partially open the fuel line. In the past I've opened the fuel line and allowed the bowl to fill. Then would open the bowl drain valve to make sure it was full. I've left the fuel turned on for several hours and gas was not seeping/flowing in and overfilling. From my novice perspective the excess gas becomes an issue as soon as the engine is cranked.
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ac-mike
Silver Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Kentucky Points: 268 |
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I believe the float level is supposed to be 1/4" between the float and gasket. I have had to increase the float level to stop the problem you described. Probably not the correct thing to do but has worked many times for me.
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D-12III, 200D, 170G, HD-3, D19D 3pt, D17D High Crop, WD45G p/s, D15IID, D15IIG, D15G IND, 655, (3)WD45D p/s, 700, 816
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8241 |
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My WD has a bad needle valve and will fill the hose with gas if not closed when shut off. You have to have gas leaking by needle to fill the hose. I don't know the cause but that's where it's coming from.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20528 |
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Why don't you run a cranking compression test on the engine to verify a sticking valve or not.
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