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Quality (Poor?) of Aftermarket Brake Linings? |
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 131 |
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Posted: 14 Aug 2024 at 6:31pm |
I had someone replace the brakes on our D17 IV last winter. Everything was cleaned up and new, and the person was highly competent and experienced. All new parts, and put together properly. Also new seals and no oil or leakage anywhere. Trouble is, the brakes are lousy. I have to practically stand on them to stop. We figured they needed some break in, but after 6 months or so, they are not really much better. Just very weak braking. I had originally planned to have Rick on this site reline them, but the timing didn't work out, so we used the aftermarket disks and bands. Since everything was rebuilt to specs with all new components by a highly experienced AC mechanic, it just seems that the aftermarket brake linings are not so great (junk?). Anyone have any similar experience? I am half tempted to pull everything again this winter, and see if I can find better materials that will actually work. I realize NOS asbestos linings might be a little difficult to find, but perhaps there are choices of lining materials that work better than the stuff we found from the major suppliers? I am assuming the aftermarket stuff is coming from overseas somewhere, but I certainly don't know. What I do know is the linings we installed from one of the major vendors don't stop worth beans.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20526 |
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Pay attention: the brake rods do NOT connect to the TOP hole on the brake pedals. The pedal return spring goes in the top hole and the brake rods go in the bottom hole. Problem solved.
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RedHeeler79
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Sep 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 115 |
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I just finished up a complete brake job on my D17 IV this evening. Like your mechanic, I went through everything, cleaned and renewed as necessary. I was only able to make a very short trip down to the road and back, because the carb needs gone through also and it wasn’t running right. Anyway, I wasn’t super impressed by the brakes either. Hopefully breaking them in will make them better. My brake rods are in the bottom hole on pedals. I re-lined the original drum and disc assemblies, with new springs and new actuating balls. I used new complete bands that are A&I brand, and the drum/disc linings came from All States Ag Parts. The clearance between outer and inner brake friction surfaces are right in the middle of spec range at about 2.035 and 2.040. Don’t get me wrong, they work better now, as they basically didn’t work at all before and the linings were worn completely out. Hopefully your mechanic took the time to free up all the pivot points in the band linkages. Everything was more or less frozen up and not moving as intended….I did all that to mine, and hope that after a few more brake applications and break-in time it will improve. I guess i was thinking it would really lock up easy and I would possibly need to increase the pedal free travel, but not the case as of yet. Will report back when I get some more use out of them. I do know that all the imported aftermarket parts nowadays really have to be checked over well and often “adjusted” to make them fit or work like they are supposed to. Sad…. With all that said, the only other D17-IV I have operated had really crappy brakes too. I imagine his are worn out also. I don’t have a good basis for comparison, I guess. My series 1 stops about as good as this one does and I figured the improved design brakes should be much better….
Edited by RedHeeler79 - 14 Aug 2024 at 8:37pm |
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4666 |
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I have replaced the brakes on a few AC tractors. The first couple I bought (imported) brakes from the aftermarket vendors. My feeling was that it was a lot of work (AC did not make brake replacement easy on most tractors!) and I was not happy with the results.
The last three I have done I got relined brakes (and clutch plates when he was doing them) from Rick Corder. My opinion is that Rick's brakes are BY FAR better than anything else on the market. Here is a little reading for you.
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Gary Burnett
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 2939 |
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I had Alex09 from this site rework the brakes on my 185,they worked great and at a very reasonable cost.
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22472 |
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I had local 'industrial brake' company reline the shoes for my forklift. Only took 2 days !!
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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RedHeeler79
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Sep 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 115 |
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Thanks for the info on Rick’s linings. I got my carb fixed up this evening and took the tractor down the road a mile or so and back. After a few good brake applications, I am happy with the operation of my brakes. It actually stops pretty quickly now, even from top speed on the road. Maybe Rick’s materials are superior, and I may call on him for my next brake job, but I’m happy that I feel the job is done and working well. To the OP, good luck with your tractor’s brakes. Please let us know what you decide to do and how it works out for you.
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Oldwrench
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Jan 2020 Location: Northeast Points: 131 |
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Well, I finally got time to go out and look over the D17 IV, and son of a gun, the Doc was right. The brake rod was in the upper hole, and the spring in the lower. I switched the rods to the lower holes and re-adjusted everything, and the brakes are much stronger. I would say there is about twice the leverage, since the lower hole was about mid-distance down from the upper hole. We bought this tractor with a rebuilt motor and general workover from an AC dealer back around 1983. Until the rebuild this past winter, I hadn't really touched the brakes except for a minor adjustment on the left side. When I removed the cotter pins to adjust the rods, it looked to me like the right side cotter pin was factory, but that is just a guess. Also, on the right hand side, the serrated pawl was in the way, so I had to reverse that rod to come into the hole from the outside in, due to interference from the locking pawl. So it just seems odd to me that the original dealer and whoever else worked on it, switched the rod from the lower to the upper hole. It just looked like factory with the rod in the upper hole. Whatever. It is working and the brakes are much stronger now. They still are not at strong as any of the old IH brakes (like in our Farmall 200), but at least I can lock them up on wet grass now.
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Ed (Ont)
Orange Level Joined: 08 Nov 2009 Location: New Lowell, Ont Points: 1290 |
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Nice to know. Great info on Doc's part. Amazing how he can diagnose without even looking at the tractor!!! No better source of info than that.
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RedHeeler79
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Sep 2023 Location: NE Kansas Points: 115 |
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That’s great! No need to tear it all back down this winter. You can use that time and money on a different tractor project! Good call, Dr Allis… there is no substitute for experience!
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