7060 performance parts

Hoping not to get that high on boost just yet, should have the pump governed below 3000, I plan on building a stronger engine, just hoping to run this one that way it is for the next year if I can.   So wondering if I should put a little time and effort into keeping this one together for the next season.....

I now have a bullet proof head gasket in stock for the 426, to go along with the fire rings. It's not much higher priced than the AGCO gasket. 

Does anyone know off the top of your head, can a guy put a 20.8 38 tire onto a rim that is meant for a 18.4 38? thanks

What do you mean by widen out the rim? Move it out on the axle? Or cut the rim and add material?

Cut the rim and add material.

You could probably buy new oversized fuel line from Ed the price isn't that bad

You are not using your flywheel as the regular clutch surface. If you follow thru with your plans, there will be a drive disc bolted to the flywheel. 3000 RPM's is a number Insurance Companies have dictated as safe for most Pulling Clubs I'm associated with. Your flywheel isn't going to explode the way you are going to use it.

No, the heat generated from slipping the clutch is what leads to explosions along with the rpm.

I caught a video of a 1206 on YouTube exploding a flywheel. The first attempt shows just how that fellow abuses his tractor. When he had chosen toooo high of a gear he really put some heat into the clutch. then after trying again in a lower gear he got out of the hole, made a pull, then the flywheel exploded, cutting the tractor in two.  It's not so much the RPMs as the heat involved. Most muscle cars of the later 60s had grey iron flywheels and would turn near 6K RPM from the factory. But when you factor in the heat that starting a load at near tp RPM with a turbocharged engine, that will cause the cast to crack. Try welding a cast iron moldboard and watch it fall apart when it cools. Welding cast is nearly a lost art.  Even though you won't be stressing the flywheel as you plan to use your 7060 it might be a good idea to have "tie bars" to connect the front frame with the rear end housing.

PaulB wrote: I caught a video of a 1206 on YouTube exploding a flywheel. The first attempt shows just how that fellow abuses his tractor. When he had chosen toooo high of a gear he really put some heat into the clutch. then after trying again in a lower gear he got out of the hole, made a pull, then the flywheel exploded, cutting the tractor in two.  It's not so much the RPMs as the heat involved. Most muscle cars of the later 60s had grey iron flywheels and would turn near 6K RPM from the factory. But when you factor in the heat that starting a load at near tp RPM with a turbocharged engine, that will cause the cast to crack. Try welding a cast iron moldboard and watch it fall apart when it cools. Welding cast is nearly a lost art.  Even though you won't be stressing the flywheel as you plan to use your 7060 it might be a good idea to have "tie bars" to connect the front frame with the rear end housing.

An inline pump like was on the 1206 in that video, and used by many, many pulling tractors, have a plunger & barrel assembly for each cylinder it's feeding. They always go up and down the same distance by a camshaft, and roller lifters. They are all connected to a common "rack" which is controlled by the governor to rotate the plungers back and forth which is how the fuel delivery is regulated by an angle cut on the plungers.(Helix). So, now when one plunger sticks in it's barrel, they are all held in that position of rotation, so you can no longer control the delivery. You will have the remaining cylinders pumping, and in this case was a lot of fuel. This is why diesel pulling tractors have an air shut-off, as well as fuel flow shut-off valves. Clear as mud?

7060 appears that both second gear, and the high range gear are seized onto their shafts, anyone have any Idea what may have happened?

Yea i purchased a second tractor for the good running engine, power director, things like that to build up for my pulling tractor, but also much easier to learn and understand how things work if you can look and touch. the tractor would drive forwards only, shifter and forks all in good shape, with shift tower removed, you could move the shift sleeves however 2nd gear would not move on the shaft, and could not be engaged, if you shifted into any other gear it would lock the entire transmission up,with engine running you could see oil being pumped and coming out between gears... same with the high-low, I looked closer and it is actually the low range gear stuck on the shaft, unless you were in neutral or low range it would also bind up.   I did remove the transmission housing from rear differential housing last night, and everything was full of fluid at this point, but you may be very right, about leaking out before.....fluid in rear diff area was very clean, oil in transmission area, milky, but at level, fluid in range area also at level but dirty, the screen that was mounted to pump inside lower diff housing had lots of debris in it.   

So, did you have a plate made to bolt to the flywheel? I really like that idea, but lots have used bolts through the clutch disc to act as a drive lug.