This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


CA crank pulley question for
 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
captaindana View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
Points: 2461 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: CA crank pulley question for
    Posted: 18 Nov 2023 at 7:06pm
You engine pros.




What size do I have the new pulley machined to??

Thanks. Dana
Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Codger View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Illinois
Points: 2053 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2023 at 7:15pm
I would not rely upon your measurements method for accuracy. Use the same method for both items meaning use a snap gauge in the bore of the pulley and measure across the snap gauge. I've seen a lot of those calipers not measure the same from external to internal. 

I would think 0015, to .002 snug fit would retain it if an interference fit for that size shaft. That will be tight to push on and need a puller to remove. 

I don't know the application as never have worked with one of those and cannot tell from the photo is the crank snout is internally threaded or not?
A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
Back to Top
DaveKamp View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
Points: 5754 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 2023 at 9:57pm
Hi Captain D!

I'm finding it hard to accept that the sheave you have, isn't machined to proper ID for your CA's crank nose.  As Codge noted, a 0.0015" interferance fit would be what I would expect between the nose and sheave bore.  What I would do, is pull out the key, and carefully check the bore with a nice flat file, and any places that suggest irregularly high spots, gently bring them down, then a gentle dressing with some medium fine emery cloth... then wipe it clean, clean up and verify the keyway fit... then I'd put the sheave in the oven at 400 degrees for 16 minutes (which just happens to match the cooking time for a Tombstone 4-Meat!!), put a little oil on the snout, and slip it on... have a piece of softwood and a 4lb mallet to send it rest of the way home once it's started on...

And no, Codge-  the nose has a conical cut to accept a lathe tailstock live center.


Edited by DaveKamp - 18 Nov 2023 at 9:59pm
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
Back to Top
captaindana View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Fort Plain, NY
Points: 2461 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote captaindana Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 2023 at 7:37am
Thanks guys!   My day has started by studying thermodynamics with press fit / interference fits on the top of the list. Interesting stuff but I keep dozing off…. But really Dave, I have Red Barons which specifically say 400* for 15 to 17 and Tony’s pepperoni calling attention after 17 up to 20 minutes. Do I have to trade these in for Tombstones? 🤣
Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20485 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 2023 at 7:42am
Pulley should pretty easily slide right on at room temps with some penetrating oil. Get a different pulley. It ain't right.
Back to Top
PaulB View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4727 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 2023 at 8:04am
The pulleys on the BE/CE and all the small D series engines are a FRIM press fit.  Unlike the 201/226 engines that have a tapered bolt to lock the pulley to the crank, the "small block" engines rely on a tight fit to keep them in place as the small set screw only locks against the key, not into a tapered hole in the crank.
  This is why so many of the "small block" pulleys are cracked or broken by uninformed persons using a jaw puller without backup to remove them and also not removing the sometimes second set screw. 
  The same goes for reinstalling them, just wacking them on cold is a sure way to destroy the "small block" pulleys, Heating them slightly and LIGHT force with a piece of soft metal against the pulley is the way to safely put the pulley back on.
 If the pulley slides on easily when cold, it will surely come loose.
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.047 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum