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301 Tips and tricks.

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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Joined: 19 Aug 2011
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 301 Tips and tricks.
    Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 11:45am
I'm gonna set up my dads old 190XT for tractor pulling. I plan on fully overhauling the 301 and doing some pump and injector work. Im really familiar with diesels in general, but not really the Allis 301. Jus wondering of you guys had any suggestions for power and performance. I don't have a series III so I'm really not sure how far I can safely go. This will only be a pulling tractor and never see a field.
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Jim in MO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim in MO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 11:58am
call me 660-460-0419 C   660-527-3514 H jim
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Burgie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Burgie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 12:05pm
Does it have the big axles??
"Burgie"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 8:24pm
Don't worry about small axel, they are lighter and will take all you can get out of a 301.
  I'm running between 800 and 900 HP @6500 LB and have never had axel or bull gear problems.  The weakest part of the rear end is the right diff. bearing housing.   MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 8:45pm
If you are overhauling it, be sure to use pistons&sleeves for a 200-7000-7010-7020 as they are lower compression(15 to 1).....then use 7080 injector tips and a turbo from a 200-7000-7010-7020 and crank the fuel delivery up on the pump with leaf springs bottomed out and get top RPM's up to 3000 to 3200. I'd guess 150 to 180 pto HP.The different parts will cost no more when you're overhauling it and you could still use it on the farm if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arrowcreekfarms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2011 at 9:33pm
I agree with the Dr! 
1972 200 diesel, 1966 190 Gas, 1962 D-15 Gas w/ #15 loader, SC 3-16" Plow, SC 8ft disc, SC 2 Row Cultivators, 500 Series 4 row Planter
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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2011 at 6:14am
Is there anything I should do to the head while I have it off?
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2011 at 8:25am
You know, I'd do nothing but a standard valve job. So many come on here wanting to increase the HP of this or that and don't really have a clue what they are asking for. I've helped buildand maintain a 301 twin-charger for a 180 puller that makes 1000 HP on the dyno ( 3 inch air inlet max) and we've done things to it that I don't think you want to do to yours. It takes two guys to start it with two cans of ether and it runs for 30 seconds to and down the track and then gets shut off until the next town or event. If you choose to do any camshaft work, you'll need to cut valve notches in the pistons. What I've suggested is all bolt on and normally replaced at OH time anyway. You get much above 300 hp and you'll need to heat treat the conn rods cause they'll bend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2011 at 4:06pm
Yes, and I forgot about making my patent pending water/alcohol injection system which is good for another 60 to 80 HP on top of the 150 to 180 for a total of 210 to 260 pto HP at the flip of a switch.
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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2011 at 7:47pm
I can't really run anything other than fuel.  Also wondering about how much boost the head bolts/gasket (or bottom end) can take.  If I turn 3000-3200 will the valves float? I hear the early 301s didnt have piston cooling jets.  Should I worry about getting the piston skirts coated to help handle the heat/prevent scuffing or not?  I already installed a pyrometer when I did the dash so I can keep an eye on EGT's.  Sorry for all the questions, lol, just wanting to learn as much as I can.  Thanks guys 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 2011 at 8:00pm
I could help you out in the fuel and air system department. you really don't want to know what the pyro says when on a pulling track! use it when farming though. Valves won't float at 3000 with the later style valve springs(originally for 7080) cooling jets aren't a necessity for pulling, just make sure you have enough piston to sleeve clearance for expansion. You really don't want nice tight new sleeve/pistons for a puller.  have fun & good luck. Ed.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 9:22am
You can burn water and alchol its called cheating, and everyone is going to be doing it, I can tell you a hot rodded 301 with fuel and air is going to need water and alchol because the one we built here making 500 hp would blow a blueish red fire 2ft above the stack which the crowd loves but the engine could do with out it!!!You need to find a way to hide the system, be inventive.
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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 12:01pm
I'm not looking for anywhere near that much power. I'm thinking like 250 or MAYBE 300 HP tops. The class I will pull in has a 5 mph speed limit also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 12:34pm
your going to be suprised on how much power it takes to be competitve in a hot farm or farm cheater stock class pull, these guys are not coming with the ole plow tractor anymore
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 1:24pm
Yeah, and wait and see what $7 corn does to pulling!
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cwhit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 3:33pm
Depends on the weight classes that your pulling in but having a speed limit ( 5-6-7 mph ) evens up the playing field somewhat. I'd guess, and this is just a guess, that at 10,000 lbs. 5 mph, and 200 hp. and a GOOD set of pulling tires, you should be in the hunt. More HP is most always better but around here the best speed class pullers get into the motor alittle.. As always jmo.. Good luck and have fun..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kcgrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 3:41pm
7$ corn wont do much, because Monsanto etc will raise there prices accordingly and we will be back to where we were. I said we made more money at 2.35-2.50 than now and on Ag PHD they had the costs etc from 2002 and 2010 and it was exactly as I thought net was more than than it is now.The ones getting rich in this game isnt the grower.
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2wise4agm View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2wise4agm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep 2011 at 6:05pm
I pulled 5 times this year in farm stock 8500 lb. with nothing but a shorter and taller hitch and did fairly well. 5 to7 mph speed limit really evens it up.
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