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Garage door opening?

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Ranse View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 4:12pm
I'm working on a small 16'x14' shelter. I plan to use it to store my motorcycle and the D-10. It's not supposed to be a shop, I'm going to build that later on. I need to frame out an opening for a garage door. I'll probably end up buying the 8'x7' roll up style door at Lowe's. All it says on the box is 8x7. Does the opening need to be a little larger? I just wonder if I need room for tracks and other hardware? If anyone has ever installed one I would appreciate any info, thanks.
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Dave in PA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in PA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 4:18pm
From my past installs and framing.  I would frame it out to the width of the door, then when you install the trim/weather-strip, good to go.  As for the height of it, do the same. So rough frame at 8x7 trim, 3/4" ???,  weather striping approx. 1/4" to 3/8" you should be good.   Just my opinion, if others have more input, chime in!!!

Edited by Dave in PA - 29 Oct 2019 at 4:19pm
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 4:22pm
normally the door sets against the INSIDE of the door frame.. The tracks bolt to the WALL a couple inches from the opening.. You can make the opening 8 x 7 in rough 2 x 4 or 2 x 6, then frame out with 3/4 inch pine if you want.... Normally I would make it 8 x 7 openings, then install the tracks on the INSIDE and install the door to come down about even with the opening.. Once the door is installed, you put the 3/4 inch wood up against the door with a minimal gap (1/8 inch) so you get a decent air / snow seal... the tracks installation brackets are also adjustable in and out to finish up.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 4:34pm
this is a little confusing to start, but in the END the opening is 8 x 7 as I mentioned.
 
 
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Frame your rough opening 8’x7’ like Steve and Dave said. You need 2 cripples and a king stud on each end of the header. Then on the inside lay a 2x6 flat against the crippled and stud running from floor to ceiling on each end then run one horizontal between the two ends flush with the bottom of the header. You’re creating an “H” frame. Then find center and run a short 2x12 or (2) 2x6 side by side from the top of the horizontal 2x6 to the ceiling. This is to mount the spring hanger in the center. This will move your door in 1 1/2” and gives something to drywall up against should you chose. It also gives a full 51/2” to mount the door tracks to.
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 5:16pm
What are you "trimming out" the opening with?? The rough opening is based upon the "finished" trim, don't figure in the weather strip. Normally a O/H door is rough framed 3" wider and an 1 1/2" taller to allow for 2x? side jambs. If 3/4" trim is used, adjust as needed. Too small of an opening(within reason) is WAY better than too big.
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 5:19pm
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

Frame your rough opening 8’x7’ like Steve and Dave said. You need 2 cripples and a king stud on each end of the header. Then on the inside lay a 2x6 flat against the crippled and stud running from floor to ceiling on each end then run one horizontal between the two ends flush with the bottom of the header. You’re creating an “H” frame. Then find center and run a short 2x12 or (2) 2x6 side by side from the top of the horizontal 2x6 to the ceiling. This is to mount the spring hanger in the center. This will move your door in 1 1/2” and gives something to drywall up against should you chose. It also gives a full 51/2” to mount the door tracks to.
 
You guys waste WAY too many $$ with your 2x6's LOL!!
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 5:27pm
Originally posted by Ranse Ranse wrote:

I'm working on a small 16'x14' shelter. I plan to use it to store my motorcycle and the D-10. It's not supposed to be a shop, I'm going to build that later on. I need to frame out an opening for a garage door. I'll probably end up buying the 8'x7' roll up style door at Lowe's. All it says on the box is 8x7. Does the opening need to be a little larger? I just wonder if I need room for tracks and other hardware? If anyone has ever installed one I would appreciate any info, thanks.
 
You need an opening (stud to stud ,floor to bottom of header) 97 1/2"x 84 3/4". This allows for 1x6 trim in the opening on 2 sides and the top.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nella(Pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 5:36pm
A picture is worth a 1000 words! Find a garage with the same size door and look it over to answer your questions. You will probably have to make a header for over the door strong enough to support the load, depending on your design.
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

Frame your rough opening 8’x7’ like Steve and Dave said. You need 2 cripples and a king stud on each end of the header. Then on the inside lay a 2x6 flat against the crippled and stud running from floor to ceiling on each end then run one horizontal between the two ends flush with the bottom of the header. You’re creating an “H” frame. Then find center and run a short 2x12 or (2) 2x6 side by side from the top of the horizontal 2x6 to the ceiling. This is to mount the spring hanger in the center. This will move your door in 1 1/2” and gives something to drywall up against should you chose. It also gives a full 51/2” to mount the door tracks to.
 
You guys waste WAY too many $$ with your 2x6's LOL!!

Both overhead door companies we use require the H frame and the Drywaller love us.
We have a 2.5 year waiting list right now so I’d say our customers must be happy.
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FREEDGUY View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 6:05pm
Thumbs Up not sure why the drywallers have any bearing on the door opening though?  A 2x6 "nailer" for the door brackets only adds more studs to the sides of the  R/O to have a "nailer" for your rockers Wink,$$
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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:25pm
If I understand this correctly from what FREEDGUY wrote and Steve(ill)'s link, you should frame it out wide enough to allow for your casing material (in most cases 2x6). The actual opening should end up being 8ft wide x 7ft high. The lumber I'm using is sawmill lumber, so my 2x6s are a full 2" thick (not 1 1/2 x 5 1/2). I can allow for this extra amount as long as I end up with a 8x7 opening. I should probably just go ahead and buy the door and see before I build the wall.

It's funny, I was asking them at Lowe's how big the opening needed to be for there doors. No one knew. They told me they had people that could install it for me. I told them they couldn't install it without anything to install it to. I would still need the right size opening no matter who installed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:30pm
Exactly !! Like I mentioned a "finished" opening an inch smaller is WAY better than too big
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:40pm
If you rough in the opening to 8 x 7, then you can nail a 3/4 pine board to it to overlap the door... the FINAL opening will be 1-1/5 inch smaller than 8 ft.........
 
The posting I put above refers to "roughing" in with 2 x 4 to 3 inches BIGGER than 8 ft... then the finish guy nails another face board on to get back to an 8 ft opening... Your building a basic barn, not a house.... make your ROUGH opening 8 ft with double studs on each side.. that gives something to screw the track brackets to......
 
........ if your putting drywall or paneling on the inside, they nail a 2 x 6 face board to the inside of the studs so the drywall is  5.5 inches BACK from the opening, you have a FACE to screw the track brackets to, and the door sets BACK into the building another 1.5 inch..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:50pm
Go to the 10 minute mark and you can see the 2 x 6 face plates that Thad was talking about.. Makes a good flat surface for the track brackets... If you want to save $1. then screw the brackets straight to the double 2 x 4 studs.... but you cant put up paneling later very easy.
 
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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:52pm
I can't understand smaller being better. The door has to go inside the opening, if it's too small it can't. If it was to wide you could shim it with some thin plywood or something. It might not look good, but I guess a man could make it work. Maybe I don't know how these doors install. I'm just trying to avoid a mistake, thanks for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 8:54pm
NO, a man door goes IN the opening.. a GARAGE door goes BEHIND the opening.. The opening can be 0-1-2 inches SMALLER than the door... but not LARGER.... look at the last movie I posted.
 
remember, the door has to roll UP... IF you put it INSIDE the opening it will hit the Header when you try to push it up.


Edited by steve(ill) - 29 Oct 2019 at 8:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TOM (NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 9:05pm
I installed a 4 x 7 rollup door purchased from Menards (Ideal model 200) for my 12 x 14 wood shop. I made the finished opening 4 x 7 per installation instructions. Ensure you use double studs 3" on each side of the opening for attaching the side rails for the door. You also need at least 15 1/2 inches of headroom above the 7' opening height. I installed drywall and wrapped the opening with tin prior to installing the door. If you go on the internet and lookup the model number listed you can find the installation instructions. Really like my door to the wood shop. Regards, Tom
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Ranse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ranse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2019 at 10:01pm
Apparently I didn't know they installed. I can see why smaller would be better now. This should actually make things easier, the opening won't be as critical. Thanks for the video Steve.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryanlark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 11:10am
For this kind of work, it is best for you to contact the service. Just a knowledgeable person can help you much better than advice from the Internet. If there are serious problems with any equipment, then you need to contact the repair service. I had a similar situation to yours, only because I decided to fix everything myself, I finally broke the door. I had an electronic front door that I opened with a remote control. After three years, it stopped responding to the remote control and I tried to fix it and I finally broke down the door. After I found a detailed description of the doors made of solid pine on the Internet, I decided to buy it.


Edited by Ryanlark - 12 Apr 2021 at 7:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Apr 2021 at 12:41pm
i do most of my own maintenance and construction...  That way i know it is 100% RIGHT... Too many rely on " THE GUY" and half the time he dont know CHIT.
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