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HagerAC 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
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 Topic: Front engine seal
Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 2:58pm |
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I'm at my wits end with my 7010. I replaced the front crank seal while I had the radiator out this winter. Did them like I have in the past on other models with the 301 by pulling seal and driving new one into housing without removing front cover. New seal leaked when engine rpm was high but not at idle. Put another seal in it agajn this morning. Ran it almost an hour Took it up the road and back, no leak. Ran it again probably half hour, still dry, pulled it in the shop to change oil, oil in the floor. Changed oil, leaks all the time now. I had this once on my 190xt, dad told me they used to have trouble, so he has a tool made so you can tap the inside part of the seal back just a bit so the inside part of the seal doesn't ride against the front housing of outer part of the seal.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 3:11pm |
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Not a bad idea, but shouldn't have to do that. As long as you know the new seal is driven into the shoulder inside the timing covers seal bore, I think I'd try Dad's tool and let it leak a good long while and see if it eventually stops. I question some of today's parts and their quality as compared to 20 or 40 years ago,.
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HagerAC
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Joined: 14 Sep 2010
Location: SE MN
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 3:32pm |
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Amy reason the dampner should cause this? Dampner looks ok. I used dad's tool on the both of them I've put in this. Thought I had it this morning and then I didn't. So frustrating. Luckily it's easy enough to do on a 7010 but I'm not winning. I'm using agco seals but wondering about quality. Any other places I could get a better seal?
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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HagerAC
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Location: SE MN
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 3:34pm |
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I had the crank pulled forward as far as it could and then tapped the center back just enough do it wasn't rubbing on the seal housing, figured it still had room to move back enough with the thrust.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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automaticdave
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Joined: 20 Jan 2011
Location: Granton, ON
Points: 243
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 4:14pm |
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Can you take the pulley off n run the engine to see exactly where the oil is leaking ? Dave
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HagerAC
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 4:16pm |
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It's coming from in between the inner and outer part of the seal.
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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oldways
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Location: west Ky
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 7:28pm |
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Edited by oldways - 22 Mar 2025 at 7:34pm
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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Lynn Marshall
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 9:32pm |
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I've always pushed the new seal in with a small stack of machine washers between the pulley and seal. Just leave the key out and tighten the pulley. I use an old snap ring that will push on the outer area of the seal and a few machine washers against the snap ring.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 9:53pm |
Doc said: "
I question some of today's parts and their quality as compared to 20 or 40 years ago,."
Heck... I question ALL of today's parts... 
So, I don't know the 7010, but IF there's an issue with unrelieved crankcase pressure, would it blow oil out this seal?
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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HagerAC
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Posted: 23 Mar 2025 at 8:42am |
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This doesn't have excessive blowby so I don't think it's crankcase pressure. It does seem to have slowed down, but there's still a few drips landing on the steering cylinder.
Edited by HagerAC - 23 Mar 2025 at 8:43am
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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52
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