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aaronyoder 
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Joined: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Points: 6
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 Topic: Advice on wiring 12V WD45
Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 4:27pm |
I'm in the process of rewiring the AC WD45 I've had for the past couple of years. It was my Grandpa's tractor for 60 years and I've been slowly fixing it up and learning along the way. It looks like he converted it to a 12V system at some point in the past as there is a Delco-Remy 10 SI alternator mounted where the generator was. When I first got the tractor it didn't start to I first bought a battery and cleaned up the ignition system and carburetor and got it running. The battery was draining pretty quickly and I figured the electrical system should probably be the next thing I try to tackle. There were a lot of frayed wires, some completely separated so I was thinking I'd go through and replace most of the wires, switches, ammeter, headlight reflector assemblies, 12V bulbs, etc... Looking for any advice you guys might have on the overall wiring diagram and recommendations for what types of switches and ammeter you'd use (and where to get them). I've got basic mechanical skills but I don't want to mess anything up or start a barn fire so I thought I'd check the forum and see what sort of response I could get. Thanks for your help
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Dave in PA
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Mars/Wexford PA
Points: 2627
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 5:17pm |
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Steve in NJ will chim in here soon! He will be the "GO" to guy to find info, parts, and, anything NEEDED! As well as others on here!
He is also a sponsor on this GREAT site at B&B Custom Circuits, I hope I did that correct?? LOL
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CrestonM
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Joined: 08 Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Points: 8391
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 5:27pm |
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I think most people will say it's better to use a 60 amp gauge with a 12V system.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11796
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 6:11pm |
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Dave! How did you know that? LOL!! I don't know what your budget is like, but we offer a complete 12V Conversion for your 45'. Drop by our website and check it out if yer' interested. Got questions? Be happy to answer any for ya. Info don't cost a dime. If ya have time, there's a lot of good reading on 12V conversions on our site to learn from. We tell ya the do's n' don'ts and the safety of installing a nice system...
Steve@B&B
Website- bb-customcircuits.com
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22460
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 6:19pm |
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Have to add my 'words of wisdom'..
Please REPLACE 100 % of ALL the existing wiring. Either buy a 'kit' from Steve @B&B or 'roll your your own' but save yourself HOURS of frustrations(like looking for your favorite pliers that 'magically' flew into neighbours corn field...). Bodging,patching,mcgivering ANY old tractor wires is a HUGE waste of time.
Please give the old girl 100% NEW wires.She'll start right off, charge up, and give you DECADES of trouble free electricity .
Jay
BTW I NEVER EVER did find them........
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22823
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 6:47pm |
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My advice, for what it's worth, is to delete the resistor and use a 3 ohm 12 volt coil and put a fuse in your light circuit.
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7333
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Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 9:18pm |
 jaybmiller wrote:
Have to add my 'words of wisdom'..
Please REPLACE 100 % of ALL the existing wiring. Either buy a 'kit' from Steve @B&B or 'roll your your own' but save yourself HOURS of frustrations(like looking for your favorite pliers that 'magically' flew into neighbours corn field...). Bodging,patching,mcgivering ANY old tractor wires is a HUGE waste of time.
Please give the old girl 100% NEW wires.She'll start right off, charge up, and give you DECADES of trouble free electricity .
Jay
BTW I NEVER EVER did find them........
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I agree with Jay, put a whole new wiring harness on it. Steve can probably hook you up. Once you get it, it's basically plug and play. It also looks far better than any backyard fix. It's the family tractor, do it good and do it right.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8281
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 5:04pm |
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After doing three of these updates to WD's I agree that going through the entire system, with new wires, gauges and switches is the way to go. You wont regret it!
Steve at B&B is a great resource.
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS
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Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 5:19pm |
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Run the alternator directly to the ammeter, not through the toggle switch. The ignition switch needs to go between the ammeter and the coil, not between the alternator and the ammeter.
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Elk River,MN
Points: 1968
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 6:40pm |
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Agco has the wiring harness available. I have installed three of them and they work well and fit correct.
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JC-WI
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
Points: 33824
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 9:38pm |
Aaronyoder, I read the postings of others on here, They have good suggestions. I redid my WD45 to 12 volts many years ago. the tractor had decent wiring and I put on the older style alternator with external regulator. I ran a wire up to the regulator from the key switch and that worked out great, no resistors or diodes. Alternator and regulator came off a Buick. LOL
I also used the old light switch, one of those 3 position push pull switches and took the resistor off the switch and used a meter to figure out which posts to use on it for lighting. I have it so when the switch is all the way in, the lights are off, the first pull, the lights and tail light come on and the second notch, (all the way out) the firecracker halogens fog lights bolted ontop the hood come on. I also put halogen sealed beams in behind the origional glass lenses on the tractor, I put several dabs of silicon to insulate between the glass and sealed beam. I had a neihoff amp gauge that was back lighted and that sure is neat to see that lighted too. I put a switch between the tail light and the reguler switch so I can run with just the head lights on and the red fender light.... Sure is nice to have good lights on the old tractor.
So theres many choices on how one wants to do it.
In your diagram, the switch on the alternator needs to be on the coil wire... and make sure the polarity is right too.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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desertjoe
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Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Location: New mexico
Points: 13576
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 11:38pm |
Hey Aaron,,,,can Ya stand one more recommendation,,,???  This is what I used for both of my tractors,,nice and simple. If you don't want to do it yourself,,,Steve on here is the man everybody says is the man to go to. 
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aaronyoder
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Joined: 28 Sep 2014
Location: Lansing, MI
Points: 6
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Posted: 22 Feb 2016 at 8:16am |
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Thanks for all the advice. Yes, I realized yesterday that I had the wire between the alternator and coil switched and made sure to change it on the diagram- not sure why I didn't catch that one when I drew it up. I'm planning on getting a new coil as well- looks like the resistor was zip-tied to an oil line, figure I'll just get a new 12V coil with proper resistance and do without the external resistor. Thanks again, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
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