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CA Hand Clutch Pressure Plates?

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hyperz View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 Mar 2010
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hyperz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: CA Hand Clutch Pressure Plates?
    Posted: 22 May 2010 at 6:22pm
I am rebuilding a CA Lambert Clutch and have already ordered new springs, throw out bearing and a refurbished clutch.  I also purchased another clutch assembly on line because both my pressure plates were in pretty bad shape and the one I purchased looks better but still has some very minor pitting on the clutch surface side.  Has any one on the forum every  turn down the pressure plates?  I am would like to know how much if any I can turn down on the plates without affecting the operation of the clutch? If I do turn it down would I need to turn down the ears on the plates or the three ears on the piece it bolts to?  If any one could help this would be great.

Thank you for your time,

Ben
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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2010 at 6:24pm
Ben, I can't answer your questions but you might want to read through this post from a day or so back......
 
WC, CA, D14, WD45
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2010 at 6:50pm
Hyperz
The pressure plates on the recent CA hand clutch I rebuilt had some corrosion and minor pitting that cleaned up pretty well on a wire wheel and lite polishing with a 120 grit flap wheel disc. You may want to try that 1st. I see no reason why one cannot machine the face of the disc, however, after it is assembled, check out your gap between the clutch disc and the pressure plate (a shop press works real well for this) and machine the ears as needed (the 3 tapped holes are thru the ear and you should chase them out afterwards with a 1/4-20 tap). When I assembled mine, I found it easier to press it together in the shop press then tightened the three 1/4" allen head bolts. Have used mine quite a few times already and it engages pretty smooth.
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2010 at 6:57pm
I turned mine on a lathe but also removed at least as much from the fingers , I have don two so far and they work smoothly now !! HTH Mark.
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Dave(inMA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave(inMA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2010 at 7:30pm

I've found the clutch on my CA to be really "grabby" - is that because the disc needs to be refaced?

WC, CA, D14, WD45
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2010 at 8:48am
I have yet to see the pressure plate/friction material/thrust bearing/splines on a hand clutch as smooth and free of corrosion as those same parts on the engine clutch. My thoughts on why the CA hand clutch can be "graaby"---
1st, the hand clutch is not used as frequently as the engine clutch, so the pressure plate and mating surfaces of the clutch parts and actuator is not being "polished" (cleaned) as frequently.
2nd, the hand clutch is more exposed to the weather (rain, dust, and critters) thus there is more corrosion/crud buildup on the clutch parts and mating surfaces (the pressure plates, the clutch splines/shaft spines/pilot, and the actuator thrust bearing).
3rd, the axle shaft is turning much more slowly than the engine and the hand clutch is much smaller (same power-less bearing surface-slower speed can mean the effects of friction is more). Perhaps the slower turning results in less air movement and/or the effects of centrifical force to remove dust from the clutch parts and mating surfaces.
4th- the leg has more power and control on the foot clutch than the arm has on a lever.
5th, and not to be overlooked- have noted that the clutch actuator bearing on many tends to really affected by the weather and has lost it's "smoothness" and the contact surfaces are crudded up. If the bearing cannot be cleaned and repacked with grease to reestablish its smmothness, it should be replaced. 
I have found that a cleaned, and adjusted, handclutch and actuator operates much more smoothly and recommend that anytime one goes into the final that they be removed, cleaned, and adjusted.
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hyperz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2010 at 10:39am
Thank you for the information.  I will assembly the clutch this week and try it out on Saturday.  Wish me luck. I will post what I did to get it to work properly (if it works properly). 


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Glockhead SWMI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glockhead SWMI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2010 at 12:18pm
Clutch material makes a big difference in how the clutch feels too. Mine looked like an old kevlar clutch I had in my old Roadrunner. It grabs like it did too. All or nothing. Never slips though.
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hyperz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hyperz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2010 at 8:05pm
Installed the rebuilt hand clutch assembly yesterday and test drove today and every thing work great.  No slipping when underload and when the hand clutch leaver was pulled it released and engaged smoothly.  This is what I ended up doding.  I turned down each pressure plate (secondary and primary) .020 thousands of an inch (surfaces were pitted) and turned down the spring cover by around .090 thousands of an inch.  I replaced the three springs in the actuator and the throwout bearing (thanks Sandy Lake).  Replaced nine new clutch springs and installed a resurfaced clutch from Chris Pearson (Much better quality than Agco).  Cleaned the disc balls and seats (No real sign of wear) and installed all new allen-head screws.  Installed the unit and set the bearing to spring cover clearance.  I thank you all for your information and part questions.  I will start rebuilding my other grandfathers C tractor that I purchased this fall and will have many more questions to ask.  
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