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WeisAC 
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Joined: 15 Sep 2014
Location: Aiken, SC
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 Topic: D15 Brakes
Posted: 31 Dec 2015 at 4:56pm |
Hey Guys, I'm starting on a new chapter with this D15 and finally doing the brakes. Looking for advice/opinions on all the things I need to correct and replace. I'm planning on having Rick replace the shoes and possibly having the drums replaced or turned.
Interestingly, the left brake has never worked. I assumed that the pads were completely worn or something was broken. Surprisingly once getting in there everything appears to be in good shape. Maybe the pedal wasn't adjusted correctly. Any thoughts?
Also, is there a big difference between the WD/WD 45 brake vs. a D15 brake. I was dreading having to pull the infamous pivot pin but one just pulled out with my fingers. The left one appears to be in pretty good shape. Am I missing something with this???
Edited by WeisAC - 31 Dec 2015 at 4:57pm
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7506
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Posted: 31 Dec 2015 at 5:48pm |
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WD45 brakes are completely different from a D15, you have no worries here - no pivot pin to deal with. As you see, the D15 brakes are very simple and straight forward. Can't explain why the left one was not working. Make sure you have the lever set up right before you slide the axle back in. Also replace your axle seals prior to reassembly.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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TractorTechLuke
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Joined: 15 Dec 2015
Location: North Carolina
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Posted: 31 Dec 2015 at 8:14pm |
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Last year about this time I did the brakes on my d15. There's not a whole lot to d15 brakes. Relign your "pads" as I call them, possibly replace your drums or turn them, and most importantly replace your seals! I couldn't get the thick seal like came in these tractor so I replaced them with two of the modern thinner ones and it works great! There was a few pieces where the linkage actually moves the actuator that were wore from years of use and while we had it apart we built theses pieces up with weld and ground them back like new. It's a fairly fun project that I enjoyed! Good Luck!
-Luke
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ACinSC
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Joined: 16 Dec 2015
Location: South Carolina
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 8:50am |
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I helped with this brake job . The shoes really don't look that bad and the drums don't have much of a ridge on them . We also didn't see anything that looked broken or excessively worn . Maybe when it's all cleaned we'll find something . Beginning to think they've never been adjusted . Also wonder if we'd gain anything by replacing the drums ? THANKS for any advice or thoughts .
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24704
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 9:13am |
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Is it just my bad eyes or do the 1st pictuures look oily to anyone else? I know when the seal goes, oil weeps onto the shoes and drum and stuff. That will account for 'no brake' symptom. I have 3 to do..one day....maybe this year ......
Have to ask , is the rear end oil level OK or HIGH ? If high it's a sign the ram seal for the rockshaft is leaking. I drained 8 gallons out where 3 should have been...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Rick
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jonesburg,Mo.
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 10:16am |
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The brakes in the top picture look oily to me as well. Rick
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DanD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: WI
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 11:52am |
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I've done lots of work on D17 tractors. Have never touched a D15, 14, 12 or 10. Just surprised to see that the brakes on a smaller D Series are pretty much the same as on my G. I've redone the brakes on my G. They stop the tractor but don't hold like the bigger tractors do. Of course on the G, the brakes are right on the axle. Probably hold a little better when the brake has the mechanical of the final drive between it and the wheel!
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WeisAC
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Location: Aiken, SC
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 11:53am |
Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm planning on replacing the seals, drums, shoes as recommended. The left side shoes were a little oily. If you look closely the right lower stud is actually a bolt. This lead to some leaking issues on that final drive in general. Gonna add that to my list of things to fix.
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WeisAC
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 1:38pm |
Is the oil seal that you guys are referring to the differential carrier oil seal? Just behind this plate... 
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 1:44pm |
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yup..... I have 6 in front of me, National # 471765, that I have to install 'one day'. They are narrower than originals,so hopefully I can put 2 in.
Others may know of alternate part numbers for seals..
Course if you need practice, you could come on up to snowy,cold Ontario....hehehe
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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WeisAC
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Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 1:53pm |
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Might take you up on that Jay just for the snow. We rarely get any in South Carolina!
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TractorTechLuke
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Location: North Carolina
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 9:28am |
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When I did my d15 I replaced the seals and shoes but left the old drums. Brakes work good now. One recommendation if you use your old drums is if there is any lip left on the edge of the drum where it didn't wear to take a die grinder and grind the lip down or you take a chance of cracking your shoes when installing. The only problem we ran into with the old drums was they were wore enough that once we slid the housing back on we had about 3-8 play before the brakes locked into the drums from the wear so we took it back off and welded those worn actuators pieces and now we have lots of adjustment room for the future.
-Luke
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WeisAC
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 4:00pm |
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WeisAC
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 4:10pm |
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Eric B
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 4:20pm |
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Thanks for posting all the pictures!!! I have the same job coming up on both of my D14's...now I know much better what to expect. Seeing your pictures in color gives me more motivation to do the job than looking in a repair manual with black & white pics...LOL
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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wfmurray
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Bostic NC
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 4:43pm |
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I did a brake job on an industrial and it had metallic blocks instead of linings. All the rest was same as D/14.Greese on my D/14 almost got me killed , ran down a mountain side.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 8:13pm |
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Good job !! Guess my puller finally made the big time .
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Jeff K
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 9:01pm |
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I just replaced the shoes on my D10 with the new ones from Rick in MO. He will send you a great product and please like everyone else said "replace your seals".
It's doubtful that you will have to replace the drums. If they are smooth, they are good.
You must clean out all the oil/sludge everywhere including on the outside of the drums. You can use a thin putty knife and strips of a torn up bath towel to get it very clean without pulling the drums..
Jeff
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 10:34pm |
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The brake shoes are still usable. Just burn the oil off of them with a propane torch and they will look like new. Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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B26240
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Posted: 03 Jan 2016 at 6:46am |
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Thanks for posting the pictures, I don't own a D15 and so far have never been asked to do a brake job on one but still interesting to see all the pic's. Nice to know we have a good source for linings in Rick to go to for these projects!!! Mark
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ACinSC
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Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 11:54am |
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Uh oh . Somebody forgot to put the platform u-bolt in before they put the new drum in . We had to remove the drum and now have one side assembled correctly , I hope . You can see said u-bolt in the pics above . By the time we get the old D15 back together we'll have all this stuff figured out .
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