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FarmerJoeVT 
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Location: Vermont
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 Topic: Won't move forward or reverse
Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 10:21pm |
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I am having a problem with my Allis Chalmers 715 stopped moving, forward or backward. No loud noises. I was wondering if anyone knows a solution. My Allis Chalmer 715 Backhoe/Loader just randomly started to do this right after changing the fuel filters and installing off road lighting. Hoping you have some points of wisdom or help that you can share with me. I bought it used and it has been running fine up until this issue. The drive train spins and when i lift the back tires off the ground they spin as well. However when it is on the ground it does not want to move. Any help you can provide me would be greatly appreciated.
Joe
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pinball
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Posted: 13 Nov 2014 at 5:21am |
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If your back end turns freely when there off the ground and there is no noises then it sounds to me as your clutch has gone bad or possible linkage problem. just my thought.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 13 Nov 2014 at 9:18am |
fluid level in fwd rev section of clutch pack . low pressure , worn clutches , bad o ring internally , plugged filter , pedal linkage to floor pedal out of adjustment , When the unit is in neutral and wheels off the ground there is enough torque transmitted through unit to turn rear wheels through fwd rev unit .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 13 Nov 2014 at 8:54pm |
fluid needs to be checked with engine running as pump to fill torque converter need to operate .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 4:54pm |
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It is magically working again, not sure what has changed. But after running her for a couple hours, now I am getting a weird sound in the pulleys. Not sure if its a bad bearing or something. But its in between the engine and the radiator fan, need to isolate the sound/area. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 6:14pm |
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Try a new fan belt, and check the gen/alternator.
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 27 Nov 2014 at 7:28am |
Water pump, or alternator are the only outside things , belt could be bad also . Now behind the front cover are a few things but squeak from there / Adding extra lights could be putting a higher load on alternator causing belt to slip.
Edited by Coke-in-MN - 27 Nov 2014 at 7:30am
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Eric B
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Posted: 28 Nov 2014 at 1:16pm |
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The fwd reverser in my 816 (much the same as the 715) had taken in water in the previous ownership and it would act a lot like you're describing. After lots of flushing and a new oil pump (old pump was badly scored and the seal was leaking) it worked like normal. On another machine with the same Borg Warner fwd reverser the flex plate between the flywheel and the converter cracked up enough to make the converter wobble to the point that the converter would no longer pull the pump. This would give slight movements to the wheels but not enough to operate the machine.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Cal
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Posted: 28 Dec 2014 at 5:40pm |
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You eay after running acouple hrs. it works. Sounds like a frozen filter or water "ice" in a low spot. Cal in Ct
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 07 Jun 2015 at 9:33pm |
Update: I was able to use her in the fall just fine before getting a flat tire. Replaced the tire, oil & fuel filters, and bad pulley. It ran fine before I ran her out of fuel again (epic failure). :) Bled the lines and started her up again. Drove her around for about 20 minutes and as soon as I put her under load, it chugged out and died. When I tried to restart it there was a terrible sound coming from the starter, which I just replaced. Now she will start fine, however will not drive forward or reverse. I've lifted it off the ground completely with the stabilizers and the front bucket and still nothing. We had this problem once before and a friend literally reached down and pulled up on the floating lever next to the seat and it engaged the wheels and ran fine. This is something I have attempted numerous times now, with out success. Anyone have any ideas?
Very respectfully, Joe
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 07 Jun 2015 at 9:35pm
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 10 Jun 2015 at 10:17pm |
the floating lever is the differential lock for rear , check the valve linkage on the far left pedal that is a relief to transmission hydraulics next is to do pressure check on system ,
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 1:07pm |
Thank you Coke-in-MN. But before we had a
chance to troubleshoot it, we found a pretty big leak from the housing that directly
follows the oil pan. So we had to take the oil pain off to
figure out how to seal the leak, it appears to be a bad gasket. I have the
parts and maintenance manual for the machine, but they are not very helpful for
a DYI-er like myself with little to no experience working on cars or machinery.
So I sincerely appreciate any help and advice you can give me.
On that note, before the
leak happened I put ATF fluid in the dip stick located on the left side of the
machine above the crank starter. Can you verify what this is, type of fluid, and the amount of fluid this
requires. I've read a variety of information that is quite the range. I
believe that this is the transmission fluid dip stick, but I am not entirely
sure.
Additionally, could you
explain to me what the different parts are from the front of the crankshaft pulley
back. From what I have been able to gather it starts at the crankshaft pulley goes
into the crankshaft, which then goes into the transmission?, then the gear box,
then the drive train, to the differential, and then the brakes (which I also
need to figure how to change or fix because they are horrible but still work),
then back to the backhoe. Also any information on fluid
types, amounts, and where to check them/add them.
We are desperate to get
it working beyond running for 5 minutes. We've already replaced the starter,
oil/fuel filters, and a flat tire. Any and all wisdom you can pass our way is
greatly appreciated.
Very respectfully,
Joe
On that note, before the leak happened I put ATF fluid in the tip stick location on the left side of the machine above the crankstarter. Can you verify the amount of fluid this requires. I've read a variety of people post that state quite the range. I believe that this is the transmission fluid dip stick, but I am not entirely sure. Additionally, could you explain to me what the different parts are from the front crankshaft pulley back. From what I have been able to gather is that the crankshaft pulley goes into the crankshaft, which then goes into the transmission?, then the gear box, then the drive train, to the differential, and then the brakes (which I also need to figure how to change or fix because they are horrible but still work), then back backhoe. Any information on fluid types, amounts, and where to check them/add them. We are desperate to get it working beyond running for 5 minutes. We've already replaced the starter, oil/fuel filters, and a flat tire. Any and all wisdom you can pass our way is greatly appreciated.
Very respectfully,
Joe
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 12 Jun 2015 at 1:12pm
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 16 Jun 2015 at 7:18pm |
I am hoping someone might be able to help me figure out what is going on with my AC 715 Backhoe. I recently ran her out of gas and when I restarted her after bleeding the lines the starter went and needed to replaced. While waiting for it to come in the mail, I replaced all the filters (oil & fuel), did a oil change, and put some atf fluid in what I believe is the dip stick on the left side of the tractor for the transmission since it was low. When the starter arrived, I installed it and it started up. However it now does not want to go forward or reverse, when it was previously working fine. I had this happen once before and a buddy of mine jump in the cab and pulled up on the differential handle and then it worked. I have repeated this too many time to count without success. I have also put links before to show you what is going on via a couple youtube videos I created for you to see first hand. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
https://youtu.be/tKQHVm5iqRE https://youtu.be/mljDW8ihbXE
Very respectfully,
Joe
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 16 Jun 2015 at 7:20pm
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Dgrader
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Posted: 16 Jun 2015 at 7:51pm |
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The dipstick your talkin about is for the torque converter and it takes atf fluid. I don't know the quantity as I've never changed it and couldn't find it in the service book. The plug to check the transmission is on the right side if your lookin at it from the back of the tractor. Ours has 90 wt. in it. Sounds like your problem is in the torque converter. I just changed the transmission in ours and it's not a bad job.
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Ya cain't fix stupid.
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Eric B
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Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 12:44am |
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If the oil that is leaking is from the fwd rev transmission it's very likely from the oil pump that is driven by the converter. If the flex plate that the converter is mounted to is cracked then the converter starts to wobble...then the converter neck that propels the fwd rev trans pump gets damaged, the seal starts leaking and once the pump is no longer driven you have no pressure and no power to the wheels. You described a noise in the driveline...this would be my first suspicion.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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michale34
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Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 11:36am |
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I have also had wobling flexplates tear up starters also
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 1:29pm |
First off, thank you for
all the suggestions. To further add to the troubleshooting process, I think it
is important to mention that when I took the oil pan off believing the atf
fluid leak was coming from the two nuts on the oil pan closest to the torque
convertor, which it did not end up being. When I took the oil pan off to
investigate further, I noticed that on the torque convertor it has a rectangular
gap roughly a 1/10" wide and 4-5" long that was not a crack but
appeared to be a manufactured part of the torque convertor. Since this is right
at the transition point between the torque convertor and the oil pan, it was
coming out and then down the oil pan misleading us to believe it was leaking
from the pan and not the convertor housing its self. There was no gasket in
this gap nor was one the ground, so we are not sure if one should be there or
not. While having the oil pan off, we replaced the gasket. Other than running
her out of gas and the bad starter that started right after we ran her out of
gas, there have been no weird sounds or problems. When the starter went I took the opportunity to change the oil, filters (oil & fuel), and top of the atf fluid which was low. After I installed the new starter she started up better than she ever has and with all the fluids topped off and new for the first time in probably many years that is when the atf fluid was noticed to be pouring out of the gap referenced above. Im not sure if it never did it before since it was low enough not to or if this is something new. When the old starter broke, I heard it and shut it off immediately. When I took the starter housing out, the metal half housing appeared to have sheared off and when I took the cover off the bottom of the torque convertor the broken fragments came right out. I inspected it and everything appeared to be fine. When I installed the new starter it started right up and that is when with the atf fluid topped it started leaking and wouldnt go forward or reverse. We had a problem once last
year when she would not go forward or reverse and a friend literally just
pulled up on the differential and she engaged and worked fine. Now she will not
even do that and seems to want to die when I put her under load with the hydraulics
when moving the loader bucket or backhoe bucket without hitting the gas. So we
are at a loss, with a limited budget and understanding of heavy equipment /
engines / etc.. I am desperate for any DYI (pictures, diagrams, steps, etc.)
help I can get. We bought her to save money, recently getting out of the
service for projects around our house. We need to get her going ASAP with fill
coming soon and our warm months here in Northern Vermont quickly passing.
So any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 17 Jun 2015 at 1:38pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 10:08pm |
There is always risk taking with buying and operating heavy machinery. Sometimes everything works better than expected and other times we have to spend time and money to get our projects finished. I would recommend you ask around for a referral to a good and yet reasonable mechanic with knowledge and experience on this type of power train. Mechanics that work on forklifts often run into this kind thing just to broaden the scope a bit. Just like it is with health issues...to get a diagnosis is the starting point. Even if you decide to remove components yourself you want to at least know your plan of action and what you are targeting under some expert guidance or you will just end up with buckets of bolts and parts along with frustration. If the repair isn't in the budget you might have to put everything on hold for a year. This may not all sound like the good news you wish to hear but it is what I would do in your circumstance.
Eric
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Dgrader
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Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 5:27am |
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I think that's a good idea Eric. If a person hasn't worked on equipment much,it's pretty easy to get over your head pretty fast.
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Ya cain't fix stupid.
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 11:32am |
Thank you Eric and everyone for your suggestions and wisdom. Thou my skillset may dwarf in comparison to most on this forum, I do feel confident in my ability to troubleshoot systematically if told where to start first. I have the 715 Maintenance Manual and Parts Manual for reference, however it leaves much to be desired for this particular issue.
Like with any issue, eliminating areas that are not the cause can be just as important to solving the issue once it is isolated. While I wish I had both the local resources and means ($$$) to professionally examine the machine on my behalf. Coming off of active military service, moving across the world, with the purchase of home with its own fair share of repairs and a 3yr old little boy (may Project Manager ;) ) helping to hold wrenches and direct my every move. This is not possible, nor is it anyone’s problem but my own but it helps paint the context maybe more clearly of the situation/financial constraints. This will not change for the indefinite future. Which has brought me here.
So, if there are troubleshooting steps in order, that will help me help all of you, help me isolate this issue further please let me know.
Once more I appreciate and value your collective knowledge, years of busting your knuckles, and help as we desperately work to get this machine operating once more.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 18 Jun 2015 at 11:33am
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Eric B
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Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 12:02pm |
I'm not sure if you have the big manual for your machine but if you do it lists a number of pressure tests you can do - just like Coke was recommending earlier on. When you look at the fwd rev trans you'll see several 1/8" pipe plugs, these are places where you can attach a pressure gauge and see readings for the different functions of the trans (while the engine is running). The manual tells which plug hole gives the specific reading for a certain function. You likely need a gauge capable of 300 lbs. If the pump isn't working your readings will be 0 lbs on everything. Don't spend big money on a gauge to help your budget. Willingness + determination + persistence are in your favour...just add wisdom to the mix and you'll be fine 
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 8:53pm |
Thanks Eric for the encouragement and advice. I will look in my maintenance manual for the pressure tests that both Coke and you have recommended. I will also take some pictures of different areas of the machine and give regular updates on the pressure tests when I have them.
Thanks again
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 18 Jun 2015 at 8:53pm
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 7:51am |
Can anyone you tell me what kind of pressure tester you recommend and where I should do the pressure test on the machine?
I will post what I have from the maintenance manual on the forum shortly.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 9:58am |
Is the gauge I need? If so, what size of Hydraulic line do I need to hook it up to the machine and this gauge to test?
I also included pictures from the manual below if someone can walk me through the process of where I need to hook it up to and how to do the test.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 24 Jun 2015 at 10:02am
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Eric B
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Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 5:00pm |
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You're onto the information you need on the pages you have posted. As the book mentions you need a pressure gauge that will give you readings up to 300 PSI. You need a pressure line with one end having 1/8" pipe thread and you may need an adapter fitting that works on the gauge...maybe 1/4". You can use a long grease gun hose (just blow the grease out first if it's a used hose) it will thread straight in wherever you attach it to the trans. except for the cooler line. I would test the pump pressure first...if the reading is 0 or very very low you have a definite problem with the pump which is propelled by the converter neck. You won't need to check any clutch pressures either as they will be 0 if the pump has no pressure. If pump pressure is 0 you know you have to pull out both transmissions to get to the problem. I wouldn't worry about warming everything up for pressure readings like the manual says until you know if you have pump pressure. You could check with Harbour Freight for an inexpensive gauge or any place that sells industrial supplies. You can buy complete test kits with adapters and all, like from Snap-On, but then you're looking at big $'s. For now you just want to know if you have pressure.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 25 Jun 2015 at 4:02pm |
Do you know the size of the adapters Ill need to perform this pressure test?
This is what I have thus far:
Hydraulic Hose - 1/4" - male to male threaded ends
Pressure Guage - 1/4" - male end threaded
Adapters: ????
I need to figure out the adapters to get for the hose to the tractor and from the hose to the guage. Any suggestions for adapters and how to perform this test from a DIYers perspective is appreciated.
Example pressure test video: But still need to know exactly how to do the test on our 715b specifically.
Thanks
Brian
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Eric B
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Posted: 25 Jun 2015 at 9:22pm |
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You'll need one 1/4'' coupling (female both ends) between your gauge and your hose, one reducer for the other end of the hose to go from 1/4'' male to 1/8'' male (for attaching to the trans. Home Depot or any auto parts supply place will have them. From your diagrams find the plug for testing pump pressure, remove the plug and install the hose with the gauge. Start up your machine and look at the gauge. After running for 1/2 a minute or so run the throttle up a bit to see if anything changes. It will be interesting to hear what you find...please let us know.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 7:58am |
Update: Pressure tests both were 0, however pedal switches are heavily corroaded / broken testing 0 via voltage meter.
Allis Chalmers 715b - pressure tests = 0: https://youtu.be/k7RCWUbii1w
Here are some pictures of the pedal switch for troubleshooting.
Thanks
Very respectfully,
Brian
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 8:18am |
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brake light switch , backup alarm, neutral safety switch,
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 8:22am |
Ok, thanks Coke. So with them being related to the brake light switch , backup alarm, neutral safety switch", none of those would have an affect on my issue of going forward or reverse. So I will mark that down as unrelated. :)
Any ideas on why the pressure tests would both be 0 for the forward reverse clutch test port and the convertor test port?
Thanks
Farmer Joe
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 06 Jul 2015 at 8:25am
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