Removing Fluid From Tires

What is the best way to remove the fluid from the rear tires of a WD45?  I'm not sure, but think Calcuim Chloride is in them.  Can that stuff be drained out on the ground or does a tire shop have to pump it out and dispose of it?.........tx...........O_O

Eldon,

Good procedure. By the time I get to removing the CACl its usually too late. Fluid is seeping from the tubes and the rims are corroded...

I have been able to remove the CACL on a few tires before the corrosion.

Is there anything that could be placed back into the tube for a bit to neutralize the CACL residue that is left over? I'm sure water might help. Would it even be worth doing?

When I had the tubes out of my tires, there wasn't much to start with, I used my shop vac to suck out the remaining fluid. I poured it on my gravel drive for weed control.

I jack up one side, break bead, cut tube, let solution run out, rip tube out with remaining fluid, scoup out remaining fluid in bottom tire, wipe out with rags, sponge out. Wash up oif you like, install new tube, fill with air, drop, repeat on other side.

You can drain it on the ground but, nothing will grow there for a couple years. You can spread it on a gravel driveway or road and it will draw moisture and keep the dust down for a month or 2.
 Why do  you want to drain the fluid? Fluid in a tube will only add ballast to your tractor, it will not rust your rim. Rims usually go bad because the valve core leaks and that won't happen if you change them out every couple years. If you do drain it, unless you do like Eldon does, you will need to remove the tire form the rim to flush and clean all of the fluid. You will just quicken the rusting process if you try to drain the fluid and shove a new tube in and go. Any fluid that gets on the rim anywhere needs to be flushed off. If you have a leak somewhere drain it and remove the tire, clean and paint the rim and replace the tube.
 Another point to consider is whether you ever plan on working the 45 again. You can't hardly add enough weights to make up for the fluid and ballast is needed to plow or use a loader. Of course you can use windshield washer fluid, used antifreeze or Rim Guard to replace the CaCl.  JMO

I totally agree with CTuckerNWIL, CaCL inside the tube will never rust the rim. A little "maintance" and the rim will not rust. Keep them clean and watch for leaks and have the leaks fixed. I have my grandpa's WC that has had Fluid in the rear tires for over 50 years and the rims are not rusted at all. But we have always kept our eyes on the tires and washed them off 1-2 times a year.

Are the tires more likely to be punctured by sharp rocks or sharp stumps when fluid is present?  Seems like the heavier tire would be more likely to puncture.......My tractor is used mostly for brush hogging and dragging brush...........O_O

I have never been able to understand why tyre companies fill tyres with CaCl solution when a couple of gallons of ordinary ethylene glycol anti-freeze added to the water will keep the tyre safe by ensuring that the worst that can happen at freezing temperatures is that the water ballast turns to slush. Glycol is harmless to tyre rubber (and rad hoses!) and is very effective. When I was a boy, my father would always insist that glycol was used in the tyre ballast of all the tractors on his farm and he never had a problem in freezing weather over the many years that water ballast was used! CaCl is filthy muck  - it is disgusting to handle and has ruined countless wheel rims by rotting them out. It is the worst option as a tyre anti-freeze. Don't use it!!

Easiest way I found to remove calcium chloride was to run over a plowed under steel rusted T fence post at the back of the farm. By the time you get to the house it is bout gone.  Neglect is the cause of rusted rims from calcium chloride. Like so many things something has to let the gene outa the bottle.