7030 for super field

I bought this tractor today, and am considering making a puller out of it. I want to start out in super field, and eventually graduate to hot farm class. Will the 3500 series engine hold together as good as a 3700? Will the clutch handle it okay, or should I go ahead and add more plates? Rules would be 10,200 lbs, 2900rpm, roosa .450, water injection, 3lm466 or equivalent turbo, and no intercooler.

Edited by 7060 - 04 Sep 2014 at 11:00pm

I have an adapter made to adapt a .450 DB pump to a MKII style front plate. I've built lots of .450 pumps for pullers, and since they outperform a DM4 by over 100cc, I figured it would be a good investment in designing the adapter. I also build injectors, and get lines as well. You'll just have to bend them to fit. pm for more details. 

1 - So does it have to be the Allis 426 intercooler or can it be any intercooler?

2 - Can you run more that 426 cubes with an intercooler? I assume you can not and that's why you get a cooler with a 426.

3 - What is the cubic inch limit for the red and green tractors?

4 - How are the officials able to tell what size plungers are in each pump?

This could be an alright class for an Allis depending on what the other colors get to use.

Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 05 Sep 2014 at 2:34pm

Can you run ice water in the intercooler

Besides my 450 roosa, I also build a couple different mean Bosch A pumps. 10mm bosch plungers, good for 340cc, 10mm Denso plunger 440cc, or 12mm plunger at 600cc max. For you rules and setup, I'd recoment the 10mm denso. Your rules have that limit, so I won't build a 12 for you in that class. 

Thanks for all the advice. Ed I'll be talking to you when I make it to the pump. The guy I bought it from said that the rear end locked up after chisel plowing froze ground, so I have another 7030 rear end and a 7060 rear end with bad range gears. I think I'm going to go with the 7030 rear for simplicity, will it be alright for the horsepower?

From doing other searches on here it sounds like stroke would be an easier way to get there. Does anyone know of a place to get a stroked crank, or is that even my best option? Also do I double spring my TL or machine myself a solid one?

A longer stroke would be less costly I would think. 5.450" stoke gets you to 464 cubes with stock buckets. Ed has at least one vendor he can recommend. Find a counter balanced crankshaft out of a 7080, 7580, N5, N6. Use the OEM pistons, machine the top off, and machine the bowls and valve reliefs. Heat treat the conn rods please. You might consider using the newer, 1.750" wrist pin rods and pistons. With that said you might consider finding and N5 - N6 engine complete and running. It would have the piston cooled block, counter balanced crank, big pin rods and pistons.

I think with the ft. lbs. you have the potential to produce you better make the torque limiter solid or you might be disappointed. One less thing to slip.

If the 426 intercooler was as efficient as the newer Precision intercoolers I would say go with it and leave it at 426 inches. That would be a low cost way to get the job done. Even with ice water running through them, the 426 cooler will do okay, but won't make up 40 cubic inches I don't think. If they allowed you to use any ice water intercooler you wanted, I would go a Precision or any bar and plate core type cooler every day of the week and twice on Sunday.

Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 09 Sep 2014 at 3:51pm

I have 2-3500's and most of a 3700 engine out of a 7060. If I go the stroked route will I need new sleeves to eliminate any ring groove from previously running engines. I want to have somewhere in the $10,000 range to start out if at all possible. Will a good billet turbo cost a lot more than a new gt42?

I think it will run pretty good with the 10mm denso plunger A pump and supporting hardware, then with a 2.6" inlet S300 for $625. It will get it on the track!

We are talking about an out of the box S300?

As I mentioned before, I doubt there is any way you will effectively spin a 2.8 inch turbo with less than 550 - 600 cc's of fuel@ 3200 RPM. I would agree with the limited pump you will probably be in the 2.5 - 2.6" inlet size turbo range.

The S300 turbo is a good turbo at a good price. A few different compressors and exhaust wheels and housings to choose from too. The Holset HX50 would be another good choice for what you want to do.

Steel is not a bad idea but may change shape and need to be surfaced a couple of times before it finds it shape. Every time you take it off and lay a straight edge across where it mates to the cylinder head it will not be flat.

If done correctly it will increase flow and from what others have said a divided manifold is a plus. We use carbon steel weld elbows. Some use stainless which I am sure would be better. No need for great big runners. The size of the exhaust port is big enough.

Your skills will come in handy on this project. Frame rails, front axle, drawbar, weight brackets, wheelie bars, etc. Lots of work for a skilled fab guy to do on a puller.

By the way, getting an 18 inch long drawbar on that tractor may require reconstructive surgery to the rear housing. Easy enough for someone with your abilities.   

Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 10 Sep 2014 at 3:40pm

Make six adapter blocks and use an IH DT414 exhaust manifold. That will be better than an AC 426 manifold and probably better than you can fabricate.

The results with the more modern "pulse" design IH manifold are worth the extra effort to adapt. Been there.....dun that. Look at almost any good exhaust manifold on a modern turbo engine and they are very similar in design......small tight runners......6-5-4 feed into one half of the turbo.....3-2-1 feed into the other half.....again SMALL tight runners all in a straight line almost all the way.