ready to split CA

... but i seem to remember reading a warning on here about disconnecting the steering connecting rod. all places circled in blue are heavily painted with 50/50 acetone atf mix and have been for hours. (that's how i got the 2 castle nuts off).

i've tapped the rod with a heavy hammer & also tried prying (but not too vigorously yet) with a decent sized crowbar to see if the bar would slide out, but no.

looking for recommendations on procedure - where to disconnect & how.

btw not braced for splitting yet, want to get all removals done first. (more below on that!)

also -

somebody should have warned me! as i take off each part preparing for the split, i have been cleaning them up and figuring i might as well paint them now instead of later as planned. well... i also uncover more 60 year crud to be cleaned out, so taking off more to get at it,,, and so it goes. now i guess i'm commited to a pretty complete repaint, cuz i definitely can't put this hardworking beauty back together looking so shabby.

Edited by CAdon - 24 Mar 2012 at 5:36pm

Get 2 big hammers. Hold one on one side of the arm and hit the other side with the other hammer as if you are trying to squish the hole that the bolt goes thru. After a couple good smacks thread the nut back on the bolt and try a couple light taps, should pop right out.

Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker

Do the tie rod pullers look like a gear puller? Just thinkin, wondering if a small gear puller would work too?

Galatians 5:22-24

"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"

if you do what MNLonnie said
Get 2 big hammers. Hold one on one side of
the arm and hit the other side with the other
hammer as if you are trying to squish the hole
that the bolt goes thru.

it should work on the top 2 tie rods end
but this site show you what they look like
http://www.google.ca/search?q=tie+rod+
pullers&hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&
hs=3Ac&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&
prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbs=simg:CAQS
EglmLumBWkZSDyFZhG6qYIWoXA&dur=3293

B:-) Dnoym

Not saying it will work every time... but I was in the same place as you on my C about a year ago. I had a hammer and was hitting here, hitting there, with no luck. My uncle walks up and tells me to hit straight down on the top/end of the steering arm instead of either side. He pointed out that when you hit the sides, the arm just rotates a little, but if you hit straight down, the arm supports the force of the hit and allows the force of the blow to do what you intend... separate the joint at the taper. Didn't take me but one or two hits to get both ends off using that method.

'41 C w/Woods L503 mower, #3 mower, 2-way plows for C

thanks all.

i believe i do have something like that pickle fork around... and also a variety of pullers.

from what lonnie says it sounds like a fair amount of force will be required.

i'll give them all a try tomorrow UNLESS...

i tried the nut on the lower right (attaching to the housing) and got it to rotate a couple of degrees. what about undoing it there and rotating the whole arm assembly out of the way? there's a bushing behind that vertical arm that looks really shot so i could replace that at the same time.

(project has evolved into a much more complete refurb than originally planned... which is really not a problem. now or later, it all needs to be done. this is a "lifer", do not plan to sell it EVER!

Edited by CAdon - 24 Mar 2012 at 9:00pm

!!!

thanks jay

even dropping the cultivator framing was a weight issue! super cautious here since i don't have cherry pickers etc at my disposal.

but i am getting done... and safely.

Edited by CAdon - 24 Mar 2012 at 9:20pm

DOn if tou have a small torch heat the sterring arm up a little then hit it that mite help. ron nca

yep, ted. and am hanging the engine half with a chain hoist attached to the engine.

building a permanent sturdy frame to do that since here in southern calif i can work outside nearly year round (and prefer that). and, uh, i have got the bug and this first tractor rehab will definitely not be my last.

likewise am modifying a wheeled support for the rear to pull it apart. packed dirt "floor" so big fat wheels.

the good news is mine has a wide front. still securing evrything tho!

CAdon wrote:

likewise am modifying a wheeled support for the rear to pull it apart. packed dirt "floor" so big fat wheels.

I welded K car rear spindle to a piece of channel, bolted a wider piece of channel vertical and added pins on both pieces of channel to run a turnbuckle at a 45 degree angle between them. One of these bolted to each side of my WC frame rails made it nice to work on, roll out of the way and line up with the rearend when I was ready.

http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Just google "Rust removal by electrolysis" and you can read all about cleaning rust, grease, paint, from old iron without breaking a sweat. Battery charger, a bunch of old lawn mower blades a rubber or plastic container(could be a hole in the ground lined with plastic) and some Arm and Hammer Washing Soda is all you need.

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 24 Mar 2012 at 11:12pm

http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

btw pin is still locked up after some prying, banging & much soaking. got rained out of action today but in no real hurry since cleanup of parts & prep for repaint continues indoors. gonna apply heat as soon as the rain stops (likely tomorrow). timid to apply too much force cuz old iron does break... as i've learned the hard way on other projects.

I did my C with a pickle fork. Worked great!!

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