190xt Power director pressure

What is your power steering like?

The reason the Allis manual says to check pressure at T is because the first valves were not tapped for check pluges then they didn't rewright the servise manual.

You did check the bushings that are discussed above if bad the will allow the valve to not completely open.

Well i added two shims (small washer and lock washer) and the pressures didnt even think about changing.

Edited by Carl(NWWI) - 17 Mar 2012 at 11:34am

If I remember right the flat washer is about the same as 3 or 4 shims. The shims are still avalible though Agco, don't quote me on this but I think somewhere in the area of $0.29 each. And 1 shim raised the pressure a lot more than I expected.

Think about it like this, if you have a hose with a gauge in it, running from the pump to the fill on the torque tube (hydrualic tank) it wouldn't show any pressure on the gauge becase there is no restriction. Pumps and relief valves don't make the pressure. The pump makes flow and relief valve controls the pressure. Restirctions is what makes the pressure. The power steering and the Power Director uses the same pump, and the steering I was told takes over 1100 psi to work. So if your power steerings working then you have the pressure you need to work the Power Director. So if your relief valve is passing oil at 130 psi you will never get the gauge at the tee above that, unless you are working the steering. When I was working on mine I was worried about the pressures being slightly differant, like yours, but when I got the relief valve shimmed right the two sided became the same.

Edited by stray - 17 Mar 2012 at 6:17am

I'm no expert on these power directors but I would add some shims to the relief valve that I showed in the picture above, and see if the pressures increase. I know every valve is differant, but 1 shim raised mine from 200 psi to 275 psi.  Where are you checking pressures at? I know my manual said to check at the tee in front of the steering console, but every AC mechanic that I trust told me to check it at the valve.

So how come the AC/AGCO manual says to check pressure at TEE fitting by steering consol, but everone here says to check it at the valve? And on that TEE fitting it says for high and low you should see 225-275 Psi and 60 psi in neutral. Whats the correct way to check it?

Orange Blood wrote: Hate to be this way, but that's what you get for buying a junk manual! :-)  The IT manuals are just not very good manuals, the Allis manuals will be two to three times as thick, and only cover one tractor, now you have an idea as to how much more information is in a factory Allis Service manual.

I will have to check the manual, but I am pretty sure you are suppose to read around 40-60psi in neutral.

What's the problem if it moves in neutral, I just rebuilt my power director and it barely moves in high, low and neutral. Going to check pressures tomorrow.

Edited by Carl(NWWI) - 15 Mar 2012 at 9:17pm

Yeah. About 1600 rpm. It gets to 200 psi really fast, but takes about 10-15 seconds to build to 250.

Then remove the plug on top of the valve and begin adding shims to see if the pressure will raise to that 300 or so mark.

Disconnect the vertical rod coming from the console. Clamp a good pair of vise-grips to the crossshaft on that linkage and force the linkage to go full stroke high and low and verify the pressures then.

The I&T manual was free with the tractor.  Yeah, I probably should buy a better one.  Anyway, checked my pressures at the ports on the valve and I only have 250 on the high and 250 on the low, but I still have pressure in neutral(about 40psi).  Also, it takes a little bit for it to build to 250.  When you shift from neutral it jumps right up to about 150, and then slowly climbs to 250.  I'm thinking I should start by adding some shims to the relief, but the pressure in neutral and slow pressure build concerns me.  Any thoughts?